Ben

Bah, they're both still good! :'( :'( :'(

I've received a PM, he is seeking a quote now, and I have mentioned a bulk-shipment to Adelaide.

Good call Mick. I'll be using the insulator method (I like the pinion angle pretty much as-is since I'm L-series). A worthy piece of info for the S30-V8 crowd. And duly noted Mick - If I get a positive response I'll bear in mind that you want 2.

No problem. I have PM'd Brad and also responded to the thread. I expect that the more we get in a batch to ADL, the cheaper (relatively) the freight will be.

No problem, just thought I'd ask. I shall contact Brad on HybridZ directly to arrange purchase.

Yes, I have. It needs a fair bit of TLC in the panel department. But the floors are very good and the interior is basically 100% complete and stock. Only buy it if you're happy with a project car. It runs, but there's no way I'd drive it as it stands. As I recall, apparently it's from a deceased estate and the widow couldn't bring herself to selling it for quite some years. Unfortunately the bodywork has suffered quite a bit in this period. (edited for speeeling error)

Damn I need to look on HybridZ more often... Regarding the shipping, how about seeing if you can get a batch shipped to someone in each state? (I'm happy to deal with SA customers). I was going to make one of these myself, but for $62USD plus freight, it's probably easier to buy one. (I'll be using the OEM + bumpstop method)

Ben, I sent a web enquiry last week, but need to know how much X-factor these wheels have. I am having clearance issues with the 4-runner callipers. The Grids look pretty good in that regard, but I need conclusive info before I can buy anything!

I'd say the easiest way of tweaking the ECU (if you must) would be to use something like a Jaycar Digital Fuel Adjuster to 'bend' the AFM voltage. But modifying these ECU's is become a lost art - and that is partly due to the fact that a fully programmable digital system can be had for such a low price these days.

Chrome - but make sure that they're highly polished.

The E88 also existed in EFI-form and was used in the MR30 (with dished pistons). The E31 and early E88's used an externally oiled cam (via a 'spray-bar'). There is also a P99 L28ET head. All heads except the N47 and P79 used the square exhaust ports (without liners). The L28 N42 block is more common then the F54 In Australia the 'common' models are 240Z E31/E88, 260Z E88, 280ZX N42, R30 E88, R30 N47. You will not see many F54 blocks, P79 or P90(a) heads. One of the most accurate calculators out there for L6 engine specifications is called 'lengine' and was a Sydney Z club product back in the mid '90's. It's not perfect (e.g. it doesn't know about the big end size issue with late L20A rods), but it's still a damn good tool. I'll dig up a copy and post it up.

$3750 - damn, lucky I'm not fiscal right now! Good score (even if it does have a damn sun roof...)

Try jamming 4 induction pipes, 3 exhaust pipes, 4 water lines, and 4 oil lines in the engine bay, and then an inlet manifold. It can be done, and has been done (and on LHD cars where the brake & clutch MC's get in the way too!). But I can't be arsed going through the trouble these days!

On blow-through turbocharging, there is no vacuum pre-throttle-body - just the same as an N/A car. Draw through is a different story (well, it's still the same for vacuum, but the TB is located in front of the turbo). Converting the L to a draw-through configuration would require relocation of the throttle-body, and the installation of a turbo with a carbon compressor seal.

Something like that! The ambition was larger than the common sense...

I've got a twin-turbo manifold laying around somewhere that I had made for my Z. I've since decided that the plumbing nightmare isn't worth the hassle, and will be going for a T3/4 hybrid of sorts...

The accessories on the L28ET will work just fine with no vac-pump. You won't blow up the brake booster, or the carbon canister (providing you relocate the breather line to pre-compressor). A scavenge pump on the crankcase is a good thing - any reduction in pressure there reduces pumping losses, but you don't see many going to the trouble of fitting one. Read up on the topic of turbocharging (the book 'Turbochargers' has several L-series references), and all your troubles will melt away!

These days I'd go for TBI over carbies - the same noise/power and much better economy (and no leaks!).

200rwhp from a modified L26 is well into 'race-spec' build complexity. I would suggest that you don't shave the head for more compression - get pistons with a taller crown height. By changing the head height, you change the geometry of all the valve-train, requiring plenty of time to set it all right again. FWIW, my L28ET at ~10psi (stock internals) pushes about 200rwhp via the 3-speed auto, and that enough for just under 6s in the 0-100. The bottom end won't need strengthening to make your target, but I suggest you check the reciprocating assemblies for balance. I found several grams difference between just the rods in my L24.

Personally, I don't mind the R33 4-door, it's the coupe that looks a bit 'off' (sorry mum & dad...). If you need to maintain some semblance of practicality, then you'll probably want to keep the '33. Going to a S30 with no steer, probably no air (well pretty average ventilation at best), less sophisticated brakes and suspension will probably get on your nerves if it's a daily. I'm not saying 'don't get one', I'm saying consider keeping the '33 (or something similar) to do your daily work, and make the Z a weekender. I have driven my 240Z as a daily in the past (for several years in fact), and it doesn't take long to desire something less 'special' to do those peak-hour commutes (then I get withdrawal-symptoms, lol).

FWIW - S2 910 Bluebird (Bosch) with the 'wide' stator is a good thing I've got one that's been re-wound to 90A+ fitted to my 240Z

The Scarab is quite a rare thing these days, and somewhat of a collectors item in the US. It was very much a case of 'hot rodding' the 240Z and aligning it to the 'V8 iron' psyche of the time. I'm pretty sure that the oil crisis killed it off. Having said that, if I wanted a V8 Z (which would complement my collection nicely!), I think that a 'fresh' conversion would be the way to go.

Lol, sorry if I caused confusion... My point is that the left & right badges are different, and are quite often put on the car reversed, resulting in the vent orientation being incorrect. (or you'll find a car with 2xLH or 2xRH badges instead of one of each)

... with a 3-hole vent that needs to be fitted to the correct side of the car!

Buy these bits new - most of the chrome finish on original badges will be buggered, and when I bought a new vented bonnet in '05 it was around $600.