Ben

Maybe my reply didn't come across as intended... The easiest way to work out the bearing number is to remove the locknut and dust shield, the model will be stamped on it (from memory the model number is based on the OD, ID & width of the bearing). Read off the number at your local CBC and they'll have one in stock.

The model number is written on the bearing - simply remove the current unit and read off the numbers

lol - Halls Small Engine Repairs (does that include A12's??) (seriously folks, if you have a broken ride-on, he can fix that too!)

hallent@adam.com.au 0883896635

And one other thing... Point the new owner to the forum too, we'd love to have them on board

You need special tools to disassemble a gearbox. I recommend you get someone experienced to do that work unless you're real brave - and have access to schematics! The can be fitted with Hollinger internals. Hall Racing Enterprises here in Adelaide has done that to many a FS5W71B

I've seen S30's in worse condition brought back from the dead. Heck, that would be an A1 shell in the UK... The 240Z is a perfect candidate for a track car - no matching numbers, no interior, nothing to 'ruin'. The 260Z is a bit harder to call - too many shadows. But it's in one piece, and a bloody cheap starting price.

A B or C is easy... 'A' has a flange output, Porsche synchros and the old monkey-motion shifter (and removable bell housing). Only seen in early Zeds and sports 2000's. 'B' is the common box used from 1971-1986 (or thereabouts) has the better shift mechanism, Borg Warner-style synchros, yoke output, and comes in many ratios (since it was fitted in the 260Z -> 910 Bluebird and everything in between), plus there are some 'upside-down' shift pattern models - these are 'Option' or close ratio boxes (hard to find for sale these days). Also comes as a 'stumpy' in the R30 Skyline. The 'C' series has the bolt-on shifter plate, twin synchros and is as-fitted to all RB's, SR's, CA (twincams), etc, etc. There are different sizes of gearsets in the 'B' (e.g. FJ20ET has wider gears than FJ20E) and the 'C' comes with different casings depending on the engine (the RB25DET box is larger than the RB20DET box). What you probably want to know is the ratios of the box you've found (assuming it's a 'B') - and the only way to tell for sure is to measure them yourself. A couple of texta marks on the input and output shafts, then start counting!

See this thread: http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,6049.0.html for info on the product. I am seeking quotes for a shipment of these mounts to Adelaide. It's not really a 'group buy' in the sense that the unit will be any cheaper than normal, it's more of a freight consolidation exercise to see if we can get them shipped cheaper in numbers. So far I have 6 interested (final numbers depend on cost): 2 for me 2 for zzzzed 2 for RBZ 260 Please show interest in this thread if you're from SA and want 'in'. **************************** final list of committed buyers as of 2/02/2010: me x2 bluerat (Tasmania) zed240au (Tasmania) Roberto260Z (thezgarage.com) RLY240 (thezgarage.com) Coops (thezgarage.com) zzzzed (thezgarage.com) RBZ 260 nedloh312 *****************************

That's fine by me - I only posted here because it was where people were looking. I'll start a new thread in the SA section for those in...SA ***edit*** Here it is: http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,6112.new.html

***UPDATE for MickM*** I have a quote for shipping 2 units via UPS, but it's expensive. HybridZ Brad (RoostMonkey) is seeking alternative quotes and will also be looking into the economies of shipping 4 in one package. Stay Tuned!!!

It's burnt out contacts in the barrel - a starter relay will help prevent it getting any worse...

Don't turn the key all the way to the 'stop' when in the start position. i.e. when turning form 'ign' to 'start', only turn it far enough to engage the starter, not all the way to the end.

Ok so who bought it? I was going to look at the car Tuesday evening (that was the soonest the seller was available), but someone has bought-it-now for $2k.

I'll dust the cobwebs off this one if I may... That web site it no longer present. Are there any other alternatives for Panasports in Aus?

FWIW the L20AET manifold (14004-F5901) was still available in July last year and cost me $440.

***UPDATE*** I have no update... (I shall send another PM on HybridZ to see how we're looking for freight)

Lol, I've had it for nearly 7 years and it isn't going anywhere! How much was 'too damn expensive'?

It's pretty easy to find an L20AET manifold in NZ, or an L28ET manifold on ebay in the US. I ended up buying a new one (no hidden cracks...) 18 months ago from my local dealer.

Cheers, the images on your site seem to indicate as you have said. Can you double check the measurements on the 16x7 +4. I would probably get 2x 16"x7"+4 and 2x 16"x8"+4 (assuming the 8" will fit under non-flared rear guards)

I don't have any glass available, but that's one sweet resto. I can relate to re-plating everything. The bit that sux is when parts get lost at the platers... Look forward to seeing it 'done'

How about the RB family? Any luck there?

I'd almost consider this one - until I saw the price... A good quality LHD 240Z wouldn't be worth $25kAUD surely... And anyone who's anyone knows how much poetic license that particular yard takes with their sales pitches. And how on earth can it be a 'concourse winning car' with downdraught carburettors? /soapbox off...

10G is worth it for the overspray on the badges... :-\ It seems overpriced to me, but then again, the last time I bought a 240Z was in '98

Can you measure how much clearance there is 25mm out from the centre of the studs? I need 15mm to clear the S12W callipers.