gav240z

I definitely think you're a tooth out..it's a timing problem. How much did the 123 ignition cost you in the end?

HS30 00034 and HS30 00035 were imported into the UK. Maybe it's in the 300 range? HS30 0035X?

Rough 2+2 (TURBO) non intercooled... https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/humpty-doo/cars-vans-utes/datsun-260z/1214697733 Compliance plate has been messed with. Looks like a 74 model, not a later 78 model. (based on chassis no. and fresh air ducts in rad support). Could be a good car to take further with intercooler, upgraded modern turbo and ECU. PS: I thought Humty Doo was a joke (location) but turns out it's a real place. I'd probably nickname this car Humphrey Bear, it's a big brown 2+2 and I loved that Bear as a kid.

I doubt it's a "January built 1970" car. HS30 00051 is likely to be a June build 240z, HS30 0004 seems to be a possible April build car. HS30 0003 might have been built in 1969... we don't know for sure as nobody has seen it.

It says S30 not HS30 though? I wonder if it's a Datsun or a Nissan?

L23 is a rare motor! Nice find.

Losotho is 1 of the best places I've been travel wise. Would love to go back.

#749 just appeared. https://www.facebook.com/groups/480008718866422/permalink/1037925369741418/ Bit rough..

#19 wasn't much better, but Paul @Ledge (who did the bodywork) reckons a lot of the original car remains. If you get new rear 1/4 panels, roof skins etc.. then the rest is floors/sills.

http://www.speedhunters.com/2019/03/the-datsun-nissan-heritage-museum-youve-never-heard-of/

Let's try it! haha.

PS30 00061 for sale. Current Price 2,000,000 yen (AU$26,700.00) 5 days to go. https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/w303997991 No S20 included.

Tail lights look good, but if you want extra sexiness..

Bit of an update, I bought some more second hand 240z lens a year or 2 ago on eBay. They had already been messed about with by someone else sadly.. The housings in particular were a bit butchered (replaced fasteners etc..)... But I managed to get them looking pretty good. Forget what I said earlier about 600 grit sandpaper, that's too aggressive. You can get away with a light 1200 grit wet sand, then use plastic polish with a soft mop on a drill to buff them up to a nice smooth finish. I did use a dremel for the intricate areas in the inner reflector area (but the cheap piece I was using worn down and the plastic under it started to scratch up the lens a bit). So I had to sand it again and polish again (so be careful with cheap dremel fittings). So here is how I would do them, when approaching another set. Remove the lens from housing. Clean thoroughly removing the old adhesive. (hardest part). I used acetone and a cotton bud and basically a plastic scraper (and my finger nails). Takes forever... hate this part. Wet sand with 1000 or 1200 grit sandpaper being careful near the koito stampings and standards markings etc.. Macguires plastic polish with a delicate polishing mop (only need a tiny amount) and go over the same area a few times to get that nice smooth looking lens. It should look really good at this point. For intricate areas use a cotton tip dremmel piece to get into the square reflective areas, but be careful with cheap ones that may break off and expose the plastic mounting hardware under it and scratch the lens. Once you're happy with the look of the lens, the next step is optional but gives extra bang for buck. Clear coat is optional but it adds another pop or wow factor that makes them look "almost" new. I say almost because whilst it helps hide minor imperfections and gives the lens a glass like new look and feel. It won't mask all the issues, especially deeper below the surface stress/heat cracks built up over 40+ years. When applying clearcoat there is 2 things to remember 1.) Get a high quality clear coat I took a photo of mine it was by U-Pol and it was like $20/$30 a can). 2.) Applying clear coat is different to other paint, you lay this stuff on thick and wet, you don't want to layer it on gradually (dust it on) otherwise it will have an "orange" peel look. Instead you want to lay enough to give it a glossy wet look, but not too much so it starts to run. Paint in daylight, because I did a couple at night and couldn't easily see how much to apply. I got runs from putting too much on. The ones I did in daylight were much better. Also you only need 1 heavy thick coat, not multiple thinner coats (or you'll get the orange peel effect). It should dry quickly. I haven't tried light sanding out tiny dimples/imperfects and polishing up against with a DA polisher. I may try that on the lens with the crack in it I repaired. See if you can spot the 1 in the photos. This won't get them as good as OEM/NOS, but it will give new life to old lens for those who don't want to spend $500+ on reproductions (although well worth it) and wish to retain the original koito stampings and are happy with the "survivor" look over restored/perfect look. The 1 thing you'll need to spend on though is the chrome plastic bar and adhesive to fix it back into the housings. To be totally frank the amount of work cleaning up an old set is (especially removing all that crap old adhesive), in some ways I'd rather invest my time in buying a reproduction set.

That was my thoughts also, similar to the Benalla barn find 2+2 that came up a while ago. But 1/4 or less than the price of that 1. https://photos.app.goo.gl/CWdhoXxY9WjdXoKE2

Correct, Autolac in Sydney is good for that sort of stuff. http://www.autolac.com.au/

Unfortunately Gumtree recently switched to webp image format, which doesn't embed well in this forum software for some reason. So I've had to screenshot and save and re-upload here.

https://www.newsandstar.co.uk/news/17530121.whitehaven-car-enthusiast-wins-national-competition/

Should have a word with Phillip Lowe about that, tell him to increase interest rates immediately! We can't have this rampant CPI in Datsun prices. Think of the pressure it will put on households*. *Datsun owning households of course, the only ones that matter.

What a gem, I'd buy that in a heartbeat.. if I was in the market for a 2+2.

1. Gearbox repair will be $1000-$2000 to rebuild. 2. Impossible to give a value without photos. Anywhere from $6k to $12k is what an old 2+2 might get in need of love and rust repair. 3. I'm not. But maybe someone else here would be.

Ahh Real Estate doesn't show that information. Good to know Domain holds it. It was weird last year nobody put any offers in on properties in the area for 3+ months, then suddenly start of the year 3 properties sold within a week or 2 of each other after no offers. Funny my mum thought it was the selling point! haha. Although I don't think that area would have been ideal for working on cars, more just storing them (too clean) but it did have a separate work shed further up the block. I've got some videos of the place here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/mkz2zJVgcQSe3gix9 We actually went for another property around the corner. The 1 above was lovely but it was too "modern" feeling for me, so we went for the high maintenance property (lawns to mow haha). https://www.realestate.com.au/sold/property-house-vic-st+andrews-129804734 It didn't have a man cave, but a "barn" that could have been turned into more of a man cave. There was a third property in the area with a very cool rustic barn. https://www.realestate.com.au/sold/property-house-vic-st+andrews-130064054 But we were just not feeling it...it just doesn't gel together well enough. Like you say there's always another, so onwards and upwards.. I believe you have described in 1 sentence why I won't be staying in Sydney.

Where did you get the first listed information? I was using DaftDropAu to monitor price changes but the website is down now..

Pains me to share this 1, because I was interested in buying it... https://www.realestate.com.au/sold/property-house-vic-st+andrews-129548242 I liked the idea of seeing the collection from the living room.

Sorry... https://jalopnik.com/this-weird-70s-kit-car-is-a-volkswagen-based-datsun-z-w-1833023165