gav240z

Hi Folks, I'm documenting my OEM antenna rebuild. This thread served as a good example, but I felt lost before I started on my own when looking at it and felt it was missing some details. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/46443-antenna-rebuild-restore/ If you find your nylon string is broken.. This thread may be a solution (I haven't tried this yet). https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/39699-antenna-mast-plastic-string-replacement/?&page=2#comments So anyway I bought this antenna from YAJ! a couple of years ago. Condition unknown, but it had the "arrow" tip antenna end that early cars had. So I assumed it was from an early S30Z. But there really isn't any markings on it to state it's a "harada" type or hitachi type antenna. But I assume it's a similar process to rebuild it for most of these antenna's. Since they probably all work or are made from the same original licence, kind of like we got Hitachi branded SUs and Nikki/Atsugi fuel pumps which were basically the same except for casting / branding marks. Anyway I digress... Step 1. Remove the nut and (1) washer. Step 2. This will reveal the winding assembly, which has 1 washer underneath also. Remove the washers and set them aside. Step 3. You can see a pin that holds the plastic/nylon chord in place to the assembly. You'll need pliers to straighten them out and be able to remove it. (Similar to castle nuts on ball joints). Step 4. There is an e-clip that is holding on the assembly, a small flat head screw driver should be able to pry it off. There is 3 washers underneath that. Set them aside. Step 5. You should now be able to move the winder assembly. There is a black dust cover/plastic shield underneath. I believe there was 1 screw I needed to remove but it's very fragile and was already a little broken. So be very careful removing it. Step 6. Underneath the assembly you can see the gear that is turned which in turn moves the nylon string and pushes the antenna up and out. Step 7. There is a locking screw on the outside body, this holds in the black plastic retainer that the nylon string runs underneath of. Step 8. I knew this would happen, I tried to gently pry up the black plastic bit, but it broke.. I think the amount of gunk / rust and rubbish in the area had seized it into the body. You might try WD40 or another penetrating lube spray if you give yours a go and may be able to save it from being broken. Step 9. It broke right on the screw hole line. I should be able to glue it back together for reassembly.. Step 10. Look at all this gunk..this is causing the nylon string to bind up and stop moving.. Step 11. The antenna mast itself is held in with 2 screws at the base. I removed them, but still can't separate the motor body and mast yet! Step 12. At the bottom of the housing is a retaining / locking nut. This allows you to remove the screw at the base of the motor shaft that spins. Step 13. You can remove the nut at the top of the mast, keep track of the order of the rubber/finisher/trim bits. These are now being thankfully reproduced by www.240zrubberparts.com https://www.240zrubberparts.com/apps/webstore/products/show/7708630 https://www.240zrubberparts.com/apps/webstore/products/show/7705446 Step 14. I still can't separate the housing and mast assembly, they seem to have binded together. The other problem is I can extend the antenna itself, but only the top and bottom portions. The middle sections won't extend and seems to have rusted/sized up. I don't want to force them apart either. I may try some penetrating spray and a heat gun or torch to free it up. But not sure what's the best way to go without breaking it! Step 15. The motor assembly itself. First polarity photos for later reference, since you need to de-solder these points to remove the loom from the housing. Step 15. Cleaning the motor commutator and brush assembly. Can you see the black carbon mark on the round cylinderical brass thing? Well I used this lube/spray/cleaner. Yes I should have put a rag down to prevent spillage on the wooden desk! Don't be like me. I used q-tips/cotton buds to clean the carbon marks off the motor and you can see how dirty the tips got! You can push the spring left and right to clean the commutator surface! I should have taken video before, the motor would turn, but very slowly... and it would go slow, faster, slow, faster.. However after cleaning it up you can see it moves quickly now! Like someone put a rocket up it's dress. So next steps are to possibly get the housing/body vapour blasted and fasteners plated etc.. and then lube up the assembly with grease and re-assemble and hope it all works nicely. There was so much crud and gunk down the bottom of the assembly/body that it was preventing the nylon / string from moving in the body. So it's no wonder it stopped working. PS: If anyone has spare antenna assemblies/broken or otherwise, please let me know?

Do you still have the old unit? I wouldn't mind having some spare parts!

I was tempted, but the photos made it look like it wasn't the correct material. Besides I'm broke right now.

Hi Folks, Just came across this. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/34051-replacement-seat-covers-quality/?do=findComment&comment=302447 Looks like www.seatzmfg.com may be a good source for replacement seat material. Side by side comparison of the materials (OE vs Seatz) here. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/34051-replacement-seat-covers-quality/?do=findComment&comment=460217

4:05 - Aaron Cake builds rotary engines in Canada. I watched quite a bit of his build channel on Youtube. https://www.youtube.com/aaroncake

Well, I managed to pull it half apart. https://photos.app.goo.gl/Wote3a8HA4PX4Why6 I cannot yet separate the mast and antenna body yet. Don't want to force things and damage it. But the motor works, but the nylon cord wouldn't budge because of all the crud and rust and stuff in the body was causing things to fuse together. I suspect this is why most of them fail to work. I have another arrow tip antenna I'll be tackling after this 1.

I don't know anyone in QLD I'm afraid. There is a very good place in SA and Victoria though. I'm sure a QLD member could chime in with a suggestion.

A lot of variances over the years... you have an early 240z, so you'll need an early RHD switch.. They can be rebuilt, but there is a plastic piece inside that if it breaks won't give that nice confirming click into place and the rockers that operate the switch won't work so they switch will not work correctly. The only repair solution is to 3D print the piece.. and find tiny springs (if you can).

Another to do item during lockdown. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/46443-antenna-rebuild-restore/ https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/58434-harada-antenna-repair-thread/ https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/39699-antenna-mast-plastic-string-replacement/ https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/56112-harada-power-antenna-teardown-guidance/ https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/38996-motor-antenna-repair/ The goal is to have this.

I haven't done it yet, but I've been halfway through this since I left Sydney and want to get back to it. Thought a tutorial may help me get stuck back into it. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/44331-diy-how-to-recover-your-z-seats-lots-of-pictures/ So I'm bookmarking it here, I didn't want to buy the US foam kits as they are expensive when you factor in shipping and my seat cover material isn't OEM to warrant going all out this time (I'm working on seats for my 72 and not fussed about having it "perfect" at this stage. I also want to reupholster the blue seats in the 71 since the material is split, but wary about removing it and being unable to put it back on! Seat strapping here: (early seats have webbing, later ones have the metal springs beneath instead). https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/30582-240z-seat-strapping/

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I can only hope it will look something like that render... Mazda teased with their RX Vision concept and then never released anything. https://www.carsales.com.au/editorial/details/mazda-wants-rx-vision-115887/ Despite it being 1 of the most beautiful shapes I'd seen in years..

Compliance is likely to be a month or 2 after build date. So sounds correct to me.

The compliance plate (often) but not always will list transmission type on it. If it doesn't have "auto" anywhere on it. That's a good start toward confirming it's a factory manual car. Also the glove box inscription may help.

It could be, but I just found another 904 / Blue car here. http://my240zed.blogspot.com/ I don't know the chassis no... though. does anyone know this car?

I've been thinking about this more... it could actually be Len's old car. Here are all the 904 white / Blue interior cars I have on record. HS30-00063 = We know this car is in WA getting restored and was repainted Silver.. HS30-00888 - Your car. HS30-00982 - I am not sure which state Kingsbury Datsun dealers was in, but I'd say it was a WA car most of it's life? I don't know much of this cars history before it was modified. HS30-01071 - UK car so can't be Len's car. It was repainted Silver and then crushed in the 90s due to rust. My car which was factory auto. Definitely not Len's car. Your car actually has the right wheels to be a potential candidate to be Len's car, it's factory manual I'm guessing? Not converted? Do you know any more about it's history? There is another 904 white / Blue interior car I am aware of, but we don't know it's chassis no. https://photos.app.goo.gl/cCiD9WRoEJihmFko2 I believe it's a NSW's car wth Aunger Hotwires fitted. So I'd be looking into the cars history as much as you can, see if it was ever a Victorian car? Do you have any paperwork with it? Len says his ex-wife through out all his old paperwork and he was not happy about that.

The answer is, it's complicated.

Just an FYI, I've received some feedback re: cut off dates for certain chassis no's and correspondence with years. TL;DR - Nissan appears to have drawn a line in the sand with regard to certain months/years and chassis no.s but no documentation that I have to hand says exactly which AU market cars were the transition cars by chassis no. to draw a hard line in the sand as it were. Since multiple market cars are mixed in with our own HS30 prefixed cars, all we can go on is the data I've collected and photos of said cars to see what parts they still have today. Since often certain parts represent model line changes, but of course these cars have had changes made over the last 50 years so this isn't an exact science! Also not all changes and parts signify a new model year. My HS30 10552 car was built late Dec 71 and was fitted with a 71A gearbox but later style 72 console. The car was sold as a 72 model despite being a 71A transmission car. (what we consider 69, 70 and 71 model year cars). The good news is as information comes to light we can easily shuffle cars around to different years if req. and cut off points, but for now I've grouped them based on what I feel makes sense, given the data and gaps I can see in my own database, hopefully as the photos get uploaded you'll get a clearer picture of things that I can see also! I decided to refer back to the best source of truth I know, which is the factory parts manual. There is a PDF copy of this manual in the Donating members section, but this is from my hard copy book. Dec 79 revision. Although I am not covering RS30 or GRS30 (yet and not sure I ever will - unless covid-19 continues for another few years lol). I've included them for future reference also. The suffix can be interpreted as follows. HS30U = Non European HS30's. HS30AU = Non European HS30's with Automatic gearboxes. HS30Q = European HS30. HS30AQ = European HS30 with Automatic gearboxes. For simplicity so far I've grouped cars by chassis no. and year..usually where the big jumps occur. This is because not all HS30's were received in Australia and so there is actually some gaps that occur around these big jumps. Let me give an example: At the end of 71 the highest chassis no. I have in my database is: HS30-01973 (no photos), however the highest no. with photos is: HS30-01973 and this appears to be a UK car (HS30Q), so I think we could probably assume 1903-1999 are likely to be UK delivered cars. NB: 01903 has the later style console. The last Australian market car with the early console I have photos of is HS30 01562 (remember things could have been changed over the years also). Then it jumps to the 10,000 range after that (or at least that's my next recorded value): HS30-10052 is the first car in the 10,000 range I have which happens to be a Fairlady 240Z-L. Then between 10,000 and 10,400 range it appears this is made up of Japanese market cars. Since I have a few ZG's (HS30-H) in here and other Fairlady's (which you'll see as I upload for 72 model years soon). The first AU market car I have in the 10,000 range is HS30 10433. (so some 400 cars later).. The last in the 10,000 range that I can confirm is an AU market car is: HS30 11933 - which is actually now in NZ but was an AU market car (AU compliance plate fitted) with date stamp: 8/1972 (compliance date) After that the last car in the 10,000 range I have photos of is: HS30-12065 a UK car in Big Sam style livery (Super Samuri). Then we get to what I'm classifying as 73 model years. Starting with: HS30-100011 - Is the first car I have in the 100,000 range. This car is again a domestic market car Fairlady 240ZG. The first AU market car in this range I have a record of is: HS30-100033 - which is dead now because George cut it up to save HS30 00019 @George have you no shame? Then we next have: Which is being advertised as a 72 and has tripped us up a few times in the past. For me though this car has the tell tale 73 feature of the indicators above the bumper. (See gallery here). But it is certainly possible it was sold here in late 1972. But as we know dealers often get next year model cars at the end of a given year. So how it's sold (72 or 73 is a bit loose and rubbery). But I'm grouping it in as a 73. Also fyi, as of today and this post the highest HS30 we have recorded is: HS30-103797. I hope this hasn't confused you all further?

It's taken days of work, but 70 and 71 models have been added to the galleries where photos are available. I've noticed mistakes I've made along the way. So they no doubt still have errors that exist. I'll look to all your help to spot them and help set the record straight. I'll be working on 72's next and then 73's. Total Albums and cars accounted for.. 70 = 128 cars 71 = 139 cars So far...

Funny enough I found out that Dale's car is actually the sister car to this 1... His car is HS30 01399 and is currently listed for sale on Gumtree. Auto, Safari Gold, Black interior.

I am going over old chassis no's and this car came up on my radar. I believe the number of 0's is correct. I think the model year is wrong. It's listed as a 72 but is actually a 73. I found older photos of the car and it has the 73 indicators above the bumper, but they appear to have been removed... https://photos.app.goo.gl/SEQFS3CgcqcvwSYz9 Edit not the first time it caused confusion either.

If not for family I would have. Adelaide is like Melbourne in the 80/90s before population ponzi crushed it. I really like Adelaide despite all the naysayers. Just a shame both my family and the inlaws are all based in Melbourne. Otherwise I'd have a warehouse full of Z's in Adelaide :D.

I recall the last time it was for sale. https://www.propertyvalue.com.au/property/21a-divett-street-port-adelaide-sa-5015/10315844

Adelaide has some great property, I was looking at Port Adelaide for a while. Some amazing warehouses there for the price of 1 bedroom apartments in Sydney.

I added that car to the gallery last night.