gav240z

Hi Alan, So in the photos are 2 different ones, the grey coloured 1 I ended up selling to another member - although it was a really great piece and I kinda wanted to keep it. I tried to see if I had any photos of the underside but couldn't find them. It did have a couple of straight sections on the bottom of it for what I presume is the mounting method / allowing you to attach screws at the outer edge of the hatch. This other version in white doesn't appear to have those same sections. So the fixing method would probably work best with some kind of adhesive like sikaflex. I saved these photos from a Yahoo! Auctions a little while ago. I don't think it's the OEM version though, I have seen others where all 4 screws are lined up on the same axis underneath. Are the OEM ones made of polyurethane or FRP?

RE: Rally Clock Part No. 27385-E4100 I won't give away the prices I paid here, what I will do though is give you a bit of reading to do. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/zcar-ebay/11558-rally-clock-sale-ebay.html (this was 2004 over 10 years ago!) http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/open-s30-z-discussions/42845-pricing-240z-rally-clock-w-fully-functioning-oscillator.html In particular read Alan's reply #26 in the second link to give you an idea. I didn't quite pay that much but by the time it's been restored correctly who knows what total it will be? I don't really mind though because I intend to sell 1 and I won't sell it for anything less than I think it's worth. What I do know is that prices are not coming down anytime soon. See also this thread by Kats for some cool info on the clock amongst other things. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/open-s30-z-discussions/25575-datsun-240z-vs-fairlady-z432.html Please note that Kats is on a whole different level to me in terms of obsession, I mean I love he attention to detail but I think I get depressed that I just don't have the resources to build a car to that level. At least not yet anyway. I'm glad to see you got the correct clock for your 260z, I think it's a cool detail and a good upgrade because nearly ever Z hasn't got a working clock in it anyway. What intrigues me most about these parts is that to program a clock for a modern cell phone is a trivial matter, it wouldn't take long to do and could certainly be customised in a myriad of ways. As technology has progressed so far I find it fascinating that someone engineered a time piece like this with stop watch ability and all the logic was contained in a separate oscillator box. All mechanically controlled. Working in IT it is sometimes easy to forget how far things have come and with computers how easy it is to build something that could function like this. However it's far harder to build a mechanical device to do the same. At least not until 3D printing perhaps comes further along, but then will it really be as special?

I quite enjoyed this story.

Yeah I was wondering the same and I hope so! The skin was quite a bit thicker (+ heavier so there goes the 432-R replica haha) than the original also. The guys and teacher at the Tafe class I go to were surprised with the quality. They seemed to think it was quite good. Keep in mind I haven't fully adjusted it on the door hinge yet and I haven't folded it over on that top edge because of the issue you described. This might increase the gap more than what it looks like at the moment. I may also have to get access to the rear side of the hinge bolts to adjust that way because the door seems to still have the same alignment issues it had when I removed it. Rubbing on the leading edge of the drip rail and a gap at the rear, but it does seem a little better. Just need some proper mounting bolts. It will definitely need some fettling about, but it's worth doing right now rather than trying to fix it after painted (GAWD that would do my head in!).

Hi Nick, http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Datsun-260z-coupe-Door-RHS/171521663525 It is apparently a 260z 2 seater. "They came off a 260z two seater 1975 mod." If the seller isn't helpful with shipping let me know? I might be able to collect on your behalf. However if you don't want the door mirror, please let me know? I asked if he would sell separate but didn't respond to that query. Which I assume means no. They are also selling a passenger door. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Datsun-260z-coupe-Door-LHS-/171521665050 It certainly looks like my 240z on the inside but a photo of the hinge and latch area would confirm.

Do you mean the big NISSAN type covers? They came on 280zx's in Australia, maybe other models also. But it wasn't until much later in production. I think there was also a Nissan 2000 OHC cover for the L20's - which is even more rare to see! Actually truth be told Nissan made A LOT of different covers for the L-GATA motor. Perhaps we should start a thread documenting them all?

Thanks for clarifying, I suspected they might be different. Thank you!

Ok going to lock this thread, since the car doesn't appear to be for sale.

Oh and another thing I forgot to mention I managed to source another early hatch. So I've now got 3 of the bloody things. But 2 are bent with unknown quantities of bog in them, the other I hope is much better. No photos, sorry to the voyeurs.

Hi Guys, I need an original set of door hinge bolts for an S30z (not sure if they changed over the years, or if the 260z or 2+2s were any different or not? I suspect not..) but my drivers door has other bolts and I'm encountering some resistance trying to tighten them up and don't want to strip the threads on the nuts. So looking to see if anyone has any laying around spare. Just need them for mounting my door in place and trying to align it before spot welding the door skin permanently in place. Refer to thread here for details. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,4189.msg159819.html#msg159819 Any help would be appreciated as I want to get this door tacked in place so I can move on with other panels.

Rather own a rust free LHD car, than a rusty (many years before back on the road HS30), can always convert to RHD relatively easily also.

In the interest of keeping this thread humming along and letting you know stuff is still happening. 1. If you've been watching the door skin tutorial thread. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,4189.30.html You'll know I've now got the door skin onto the door frame and am in the process of fiddling with the alignment. Sadly someone changed the OEM door fastener bolts for some odd ones and I have a mismatched set on the drivers door. I'll post a wanted ad in a minute as threading them in was encountering some resistance and I don't want to strip the door nut threads. 2. In other news I found an 'arrow head' antenna. See (HS30 00084 - Just love the originality of this car!) http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/check-out-my-ride/46713-my-1970-240z-hs30-00084-a.html So at some point I'll dissemble the antenna polish it up and re-assemble. As a related note my father had a bunch of books on automotive how-to's that I saved from the bin years ago when his old garage was cleared out. In there is a how-to on rebuilding an electrical antenna. That's what I love about these old cars you can rebuild almost every component, not throw it out. If anyone else is chasing an antenna like this let me know I may have found another, but it will be pricey! 3. Ok so I splurged a little. By little I really mean A LOT. I bought 2 of the Rally Style clocks found in the Fairlady Z-L, Fairlady 432 and the Fairlady 240ZG models. I believe they were also available via the Sports Option catalog back in the day. They are both the twin knob clock with oscillator box. http://zclocks.com/rally-clock-identification.html I just love this piece, very period and very cool and will suit the early car very well in my opinion. I'm going to be sending them both to Ron at Zclocks.com for full restoration. As much as I'd like to keep both and put 1 in each of my 240z's. I'll likely have to sell 1 of them. If you're interested make sure you're sitting down when I tell you the price! They won't be cheap. 4. Ok, so I got a couple of spoilers for the car also a couple of weeks back. Very much a period piece, it was used on the Works racers back in the day. Not sure which 240z I'll fit it to, kinda tempted to fit it to the red 240z in Melbourne. To make it look similar to this car since it already has the dual exhaust But then again I'm also a massive fan of the rally cars... perhaps time for another Z? Just kidding haha. 432-R rear wing. Early ones have these vertical ribs in them, they later deleted this from the design as it would hold rain water and when the boot was opened would fall into the car. But I like the design and I don't think I'll be in a rush in the rain to open the boot. In Datsun Grey (offered up to the car). and that's about it, I was disappointed I missed out on an early Hitachi Radio the other day to compliment the antenna. But there's always another 1 and these clocks are going to send me broke el pronto senor!

So after fixing up the bottom corner of the door, I found that trying to tidy up the area resulted in pin-holes being visible. Finally though we got it to a point where it was solid enough to paint with etch primer. Next step was to apply some seam sealer inside the door. Pretty straight forward it comes in a tube and you use the gun to spread it along the inside between the 2 pieces of metal sandwiched together. Now was the step of putting the skin over the door frame. You can see the door was on a trestle and the skin is held in place using several vise type grips. With the dolly flat on the underside (up flush against the skin itself) tap on the edge to fold the lip over. The idea is to gradually bend the lip over (not whack it over in 1 go). You gradually fold as you move along, letting the weight of the hammer bend the lip. Don't be tempted to hit it too hard or you could dent the skin on the other side. We tried to use a special air tool for this job, but as the rare spares skin was quite thick I was told it would probably do more damage than good and it was best to do it manually. Basically follow the tips restolad on Youtube here gives. If you don't have a trestle to work on (I didn't at home) I lay the door on the grass and propped it up with some rags underneath. A nice soft surface to prevent any damage to the skin. This is with the lip folded about 90% home. I haven't done the top edge where it meets the front fender because I've been told there can be a large panel gap here from others experience. So first I'm going to see how the door aligns and take some photos and then decide on if I should fold it all the way home or not. Another important note to mention is that I did get the LORD FUSOR - Anti Flutter Foam. However that in itself was a bit of an ordeal because it has a rather limited shelf life (24 months) http://www.autolac.com.au/ didn't have it in stock when I first went there. So call in advance and ask if they stock it before driving to go get it, or order online if you prefer? I was working to a deadline so couldn't wait 3 - 4 days for it to be shipped to me and sadly AutoLac wasn't open on weekends. In the end however I didn't put this on the intrusion bar before putting the skin on and here is why: 1. When it sets you can no longer adjust the door skin and fettle it about left to right etc.. We wanted to have some adjustment when I trial fitted it to the car. 2. The intrusion bar can be unscrewed from 1 end so I'll undo it and move it to apply the stuff once I'm happy with the doors position and then place it in place with the screws again and let it set once done. Next step is to see how the door aligns on the car, for that I need to bolt it into place and then once happy with it I can tack the skin / door frame together using a MIG welder. Here is how it looks after a quick mock up. The dog can't help himself, if we are busy doing something he has to sit right in the middle of it. The area where people have advised that the rare spares skins can be a little short in terms of panel gap. So far though I don't think it will be a problem but maybe I'm talking too soon!

I give my cars nicknames but I never actually call them by it when referring to them, just in my mind that's what they're called. 1. 72 240z is Evie after the Stevie Wright Song of 3 parts. - I always loved the song, but at the time I got my 240z (or round-about) there was a cover of it by "The Wrights" - which was a sort of Aussie music power group. I remember listening to the song in my 240z driving it down to Sorrento / Rye over summer whilst still a Uni Student (broke as .....). 2. I called the RX-7 Tabitha. 3. We recently got a Suzuki Jimny and my sister has 1 also. She called hers Jim Jam and I couldn't use that so I called mine Jimny Hendrix or just Hendrix for short. 4. I haven't named the Gold 240z yet, but I was thinking Mean Mr Mustard after the Beatles song would be appropriate. Either that or SADNUT (If you re-arrange DATSUN). 5. I called the dog "DATSUN" and at first it was odd, now it's normal to me. Makes other dog owners and people in the park giggle and they always say "Oh like the "120Y" or "280B" - never 240z.

I assume you mean this 1? http://page13.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/r103578704 But it hasn't sold, it's still live and 0 bids. It's at a buy it now price practically. It's been there for a couple of months.

FYI: Found this on Yahoo! Auctions. http://page11.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/n132573245#enlargeimg Looks like shift button has a crack in it, even though it's supposedly NOS (probably the box is just for decoration), but you can see how the wood varies.

Rust looks like the area where the floor pan meets the dogleg (also called sills). It doesn't look too bad, but you won't know until you cut the area out and examine around it to see how far it goes. To be honest I wouldn't worry about it at this stage and to be even more honest I'm not surprised either. Unless your car was fully sandblasted and put on a rotisserie etc.. it's going to have a few things like this hiding in places. I'd just worry about getting it on the road, enjoying it and maybe converting to 5 speed manual. Once you start tearing the car down for rust repairs it's off the road for at least multiple years. It doesn't look severe and even old collector Ferrari's have issues like this. You may want to treat the area with rust converter to prevent it getting any worse though.

Skyline gear knob (fitted to a C110 I think?). See also: http://retrorides.proboards.com/thread/100083#.VFAOoouUd7Q Similar looking gear knob. Note: You can just see the 2 knob rally clock also! That's why I had to have 1 Now for finding those seats! haha.

Yes they are very hard to come by, even the 4 speed OEM knobs are difficult to find now. If you do find a 5 speed knob the button is usually cracked from years of wear and the chrome peeling off. Nissan's reproductions (of the 4 speed knob) are slightly different to the original in that they are a thicker width and don't quite look the same. I wouldn't worry too much about the woodgrain as it seems Nissan own OEM knobs had quite a few differences in them anyway. Here is OEM 5 speed knob I got from the UK. and the bluebird (510) 4 speed knob(which I swapped for a 5 speed) I got from Japan. Although I did stain it (like I did in the steering wheel resto thread), it was darker to begin with anyway...so even Nissan had variations over the years and the woodgrain was less obvious in the lighter coloured version. Wait until a good 4 speed knob appears on eBay US with good chrome and wood portion. Don't worry if the button is cracked. That Yahoo! Auctions knob has been there forever - I think everyone feels it's over-priced. I did see an OEM in the box 5 speed knob sell for about $200+ AU on Yahoo! Auctions a while ago, but they are very hard to find now and in hindsight I feel it was a good price. I've paid silly prices for some stuff, I just recently got 2 Rally Clocks (2 button w/oscillator boxes etc..) I don't even know if they work properly yet. I'm going to get them refurbished by Ron at Zclocks.com and that ain't cheap! As much as I'd like to keep both I think I'll have to sell 1 of them. But sometimes you gotta pay a Premium for a part you really want or someone else will . You can find Hakosuka gear knobs on Yahoo! Auctions and they are a bit skinnier and look period correct etc.. if you look at the works rally cars they had a similar style of wooden knob in some of them. I was going to get 1 of those, but really wanted the OEM piece. OEM disease I call it. I'll PM you.

We must have missed this 1? Looks good.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-Z-Series-orginal-1971-datsun-240-z-/331352619489 Another good looker in 918 orange.

Honest looking 240z in the US. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-Z-Series-240Z-1972-datsun-240-z-/151453207571 Will be interesting to see what bidding goes up to. Looks like a good survivor car.

How cool is that? More footage here. Love the old rally cars, the rally clock, ikeda bussan seats, compe wheel etc.. all very cool stuff.

Pretty close. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nissan-Datsun-240Z-260Z-280Z-1970-78-5-speed-Shift-Knob-Wood-NEW-NICE-/111493532272 If you want OEM http://page13.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/r103578704

Early valve covers are expensive. (Nissan 2400 OHC) http://page16.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/u70510779