gav240z

http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/redcliffe/cars-vans-utes/1974-datsun-260z-coupe/1061253071 1974 Datsun 260Z Coupe $17,500.00 Sunroof - but it's not that bad really.

I'll be surprised if it doesn't get a bid to be honest. I've seen far worse get more money than that.

Looks like a decent project, original radio and exhaust! Only concern is the rust area, in the roof, floors, rear of car etc.. Could be more terminal than what it appears. However I'd say most Z-cars have those issues by now anyway.

Only issue might be that Australia post won't deal with packages over a certain size... So still won't help with car panels or larger Z parts.

I agree this is awesome-sauce, no more will you ship to Australia type eBay issues!

With a good cut and polish it could look like this. http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/nissan/auction-801030444.htm Maybe find an original set of wheels like those in the photos and restore them? Tutorial here: http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,6991.msg146657.html#msg146657 Then in a few years if you still love it and no longer on your P plates. Look at a 2 seater turbo? http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/nissan/auction-803212705.htm

I agree with the others, don't paint it. A good paint job is likely to cost $5k or more in this country and anything less will likely look good right after it's painted but soon after start to look tatty. I would invest in a good dual action polisher then subscribe to Ammo NYC channel on Youtube (https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCYsa8SOy3TkoxI5D17s1u-w) and learn all you can about professional restoration of paint and polishing techniques. It's nearly Christmas, time to ask the folks for a good DA polisher from Santa A good example of what you can do is here: A nice set of wheels and it will transform the car.

Because this is a tutorial it's worth posting these photos. Anyway thanks to: zeds4ever (Alan) http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,15041.0.html for dropping some door hinge bolts in my letter box. I was able to start messing about with the door alignment. Door panel gap. This photo was taken before I tightened down the door hinges etc.. Since I hadn't folded the top lip over yet, you can see there was some interference with the front of the door on the A-pillar Notice how the swage line isn't quite sharp at the rear of the door? I hadn't completely folded the skin over the door frame in this section. You could also see that the skin needed some adjustment about 3-4 mm upward... to line up with the rear 1/4 panel - this is where the chrome trim at the bottom of the window sits. Door alignment is a lot better than before I removed the door (refer to pics earlier in the thread), but even so you could see this line was a little funny still. A bit of work with a hammer and dolly to make this edge less prominent was needed. Another angle to give you an idea of how it will look. Over the next couple of days I'll mount it back on the car again and get it sitting nicely, then I'll finish up the front edge where there is rubbing of the door on the A-pillar. The rare spares skin has excess steel in this area I presume to give you some tolerance to work with. It will need to be chopped / spot welded and same on the rear of the door. Then the door will be done and it's onto the next panel. Just a little bit of advice, I didn't quite fold the lip correctly on the lower part of the door so it cause the fold along the bottom to be a little wave like, thankfully it's at the bottom of a door where nobody will look, but also it can be fixed with a file etc.. It was caused by not striking the folded lip with the hammer dead flat (slightly angled, causing some high spots). Quite minor but worth pointing out so you can avoid making this mistake. Watch the video I posted earlier on how to re-skin a door for tips.

As if i'd take this thread down. I encourage any early Datsun/Nissan style. These are super cool cars, I'm actually quite keen on the 4 doors and I'm a huge fan of this car. (Safari Gold of course!) Owners Channel is here: https://www.youtube.com/user/sasebogc10 I have to say I'm really into the old S20 powered Nissan's. I know it's far more practical and accessible to get 1 with an L-GATA motor in it, but listen to this thing sing! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oya6WqRNFtY Sometimes I wish my 240z was a running restoration, it is a little hard sometimes not being able to experience the car properly and working away at it's restoration. I vote to keep it on the road if a little rough at first and just enjoy. I honestly don't know where you find the time! I've got 2 240z's and an FD RX-7 and there's still so much work to be done on all 3 of them - arghhh wish I didn't have to work full time . If I didn't already have so many damn cars, I'd probably try and find a C110 skyline to turn into a GTR clone. Just for something different.

These looks like 240z Hitachi SU's. http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/doreen/engine-engine-parts-transmission/datsun-240z-manifold-and-carbys/1061094740 $150 is cheap.

Not not tested could be any condition from the description. Keep in mind that shipping will be about $300-$400 AU due to weight of the item anyway so 1 way or another you're going to pay $800 AU for an LD28 crank in AU. Unless you can get the NZ special price? But I agree the price for a PMC set up sounds like a good idea when you factor in the cost of doing the LD28 crank properly. This is why I'm sticking with a standard L28 rebuild at the moment, the money just adds up quickly.

Early looking S30z for sale in NZ. http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=799417737 Looks like an early car, I'm guessing 1971 with the hand throttle and the early gauges (although speedo starts at 0 not 20). Reserve met. Looks straight and fairly original (hubcaps, original wheel, undertray all in the car etc..)... Can't believe the guy offering $5k for it now. What a joke...Looks like ALOT of interest in it.

Is it a new billet crank or an RB30 crank?

Lucky for you, in Japan these sell for $300 - $600 (AU) depending on condition. The shipping is indeed the expensive bit, but also I imagine tearing down a block takes time.

Set this topic to sticky. Bumping it up again as a good tutorial on how to fix your 260z clock.

LOL, that made me laugh.

I'm interested, but do you know what date? I will be traveling for work to San Francisco likely early December (dates not yet confirmed).

Thanks I'll send you a PM with my address.

Best photo I have at the moment of the early gauge with additional delimiters in the center.

If this is for your early 240z, there are some minor differences in the early gauges vs later ones. Oil and temp gauges have an extra center delimiter that was removed in later versions. The speedo starts at 20mph and I think there is a couple of other minor changes.

I don't believe there is any difference. It should be exactly the same.

That's only a bad thing if you aren't interested in doing that sort of work. I have been thinking of a career change for a while now and this course is my way of dipping my toes in and seeing how I like it. The only problem is I feel like I'm learning very slowly (happens when you have a full time job I suppose) and next year Tafe courses may go up substantially in price - at least there is rumors floating about. I have had help from the teacher though when I've made a few mistakes and I do work quite slowly since it's my first time doing this stuff but doing it full time as a business would have it's own issues and challenges and if I make a mistake on my own car - well it's my own car not a customers. So who knows maybe I'll moonlight as an S30z resto nut when my own projects are done? But I'm trying to enjoy the process as much as the end result at this stage. Hopefully the end result will act as a resume or proof of the quality of work .

I'm starting to feel a bit dizzy after seeing all that stuff. Is some of it second hand? I noticed it was a bit dirty / dusty and a couple of minor cracks in 1 or 2 pieces? Where did you get it from and did you have to pay import duties on it? I'm guessing it was all over $1000 AUD or perhaps sent separately?

260z ones are actually quite difficult to find, since they were only used for 1 year in North America and the Japanese Market never used the 260z naming for their Fairlady's.

Hi mate, There is no real correct way to do all this. Only better more efficient ways. I've blasted my door back to bare metal and repaired the rust, but whilst repairing it surface rust started to come back so I blasted it again and put it in etch primer to save me having to keep blasting away the surface rust build up. Keep in mind that media blasting can also be harsh and cause damage if done incorrectly, but if you sand or use other media like a flap disc and put too much heat into a panel you could also do damage. You should however be fine if you take your time and don't rush. If you're doing the work yourself, I'd work on 1 panel at a time to begin with (this is what I'm doing) and taking care of all the visible sections of obvious rust. So start with removable panels and work your way to the shell. If you media blast the entire car, they will likely put it in an etch primer anyway once it's done. You'll have to strip this off in the areas you are doing rust repair on anyway more than likely. If metal is going to be exposed for a while, you can use WD40 or Lanolin (oil) on the surface should help prevent any issues. If you're not sure what's hiding under your paint, media blasting may break your heart . So be forewarned and prepared for the worst!