gav240z

Nice looking 240z in California. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-Z-Series-240z-/331544061277 Current bid $13,000 USD with 3 days to run.. Personally I'd ditch the aftermarket gauges.. Otherwise a good looking car.

Anything is possible, hence recording the VIN # here in this thread means if a car with that number ever appears again we can be a little suspicious of it .

What you have just described is the reason people can ask 6-8K for a car that looks like it spent time at the bottom of the Yarra River. Eg: http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,2630.msg168064.html#msg168064 There just isn't many cars left at all and the ones that would never have been considered 'restorable' are now appearing on the market and people are considering them given their options. I agree with G though, the best examples change hands quietly amongst a select group. Probably because those people want the option of buying it back if they change their mind later and would rather those cars go to people they know or have known for years.

I'll keep an ear out for you and let you know if I hear of anything being potentially for sale.

For the record I posted it in off topic. But what I thought really interesting was the chassis code on this it got me thinking about the works s30z's and the PZR cars and how they were very special compared to regular full fat s30zs and I wondered if Mazda did anything similar on their racing coupes.

For those interested in this sort of thing. http://www.speedhunters.com/2014/02/mystery-mazda-the-jtcc-rx-3-found-basement/?sf37958418=1 Some photos linked from the comments showing RX-3s and S30z's racing. https://philscarblog.wordpress.com/2009/09/28/rx3-2/

HLS30-00935 Looks like it's in rough shape alright... http://www.ebay.com/itm/1970-Datsun-240Z-unibody-with-parts-HLS30-00935-Jan-1970-Mfg-Date-/271859104817

RE: Chassis #663 Looks like buy it now was removed and a reserve set instead. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Datsun-Z-Series-Base-/141651739292

Just bought an entire radio as pictured above (sadly no faceplate) which came with a switch. So I now have 3 of these radios but only 2 switches. If someone is selling a switch please let me know? Otherwise I'll keep hunting...

What an appropriate name iceberg, ironic considering the colour of the car and when you dig below the surface what you might find. Tell me what are you looking for in a 240z? Original or resto mod?

Sold on eBay for $57. Thanks for the interest.

Well there was a large number produced, but relatively small volume of RHD cars compared with LHD cars that went to North America and parts of Europe. It's also because certain parts are NLA (brand new / NOS). Just because it has a 1K asking price doesn't mean they will get it, it means they are trying their luck. I've seen washer bottles though routinely sell for 400-450$ in NOS condition. Which I think is madness but there you go people are paying that price! I actually keep track of items of interest on auctions to get a feel for what items are worth. So I have an idea of what stuff sells for, the last NOS combo switch sold around 500-600$ but goods second hand ones were for $200-$300. The lesson here is DON'T THROW ANYTHING OUT! As many parts on these cars are serviceable, so even a broken combo switch is worth saving as it can probably be 'restored' for less than NOS cost. I'm also looking at stuff like RETR0Bright for restoring washer bottles from 'yellow' to white. I haven't tried it yet, been meaning to. Example below on old computer plastics. Not sure it will work but worth a try.

You thought that was expensive, check this out... http://page4.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/d164614822 Part no. 25160-E4102 Left Hand Drive Combination Switch for S30z. Thing is I saw another NOS 1 sell for $600+ recently. I've got a spare from my 240z that the previous owner pulled off, not sure what's wrong with it but I was going to look into how to disassemble it and go to JayCar and see if I can get replacement wires, connectors, switch components etc.. then try and paint and polish it again. See how well that went? Seems there would be a local need for such work.

Sounds like it's been pretty skimmed to remove the 2 at the bottom of the casting.

Rusty is on eBay. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,2630.msg168064.html#msg168064 http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/datsun-240z-/321744710398 Buy it now is $8k probably a bit optimistic given how much work it would need to restore that! Still there is 39 (*edit 40) watching it .

The guards look flared also. Larger than stock.

Priced at $7,000.00 I almost got excited thinking it had a Rally Clock, but upon closer inspection it has an aftermarket tach and likely some other aftermarket gauge in the clock position.

240z air cleaner for sale. Cheap at $100. http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/parramatta-park/other-parts-accessories/nissan-240z-260z-air-cleaner/1077933158

From memory it looks correct. Next time I remove my console I can check perhaps? But not sure how long away that will be. I do know it's a tight fit for the clips to go on.

Will do, so far it seems to have ported across nicely. It's just the avatars that are broken. There is a support forum on the Invision Power Board site so I was looking there for some answers but only found threads a couple of years old. I may try starting a new thread with my details and see if they can help. It's amazing how important the avatar's are in terms of knowing who is who and I'm sure everyone can restore their own but if I can avoid that I'd like to. It may not seem like a big issue on the surface but it is in a way. The good thing is that the conversion script I use allows you to convert different tables and repeat the process if needed. So I can repeat the conversion process for avatars on their own which might help me to fix it. I think part of the problem is that SMF allows you to store avatars in 2 folders, /avatars and /attachments I may need to run the script again and point it to the other folder now that I think about it. SMF is a bit of a mess if I'm honest.... The other thing I'm going to attempt to do is convert the gallery, the current gallery has been lacking in use of the last few years. I suspect because the software isn't that friendly and it's not well integrated into the site. It's also difficult to navigate properly. I noticed quite a few useful photos (as there is material in there from 2004!) and not even I knew about it still I was looking through the raw image folders. I'm hoping to migrate that over also and hopefully users will have better control over the material in there and be able to leverage those images in other parts of the site like posts etc.. Just consolidating all that into 1 database will make a huge difference. Then there is a whole host of other ways I can try and optimise the software for improved performance in terms of load times etc.. The other thing I need to test is make sure that old topic URLs redirect to the new URL format for example this topic's URL is: http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,15890.msg168733/topicseen.html I need to make sure any of these URLs redirect to the new corresponding page on the new forum so that we don't have broken links (nothing more frustrating than that!). It's quite a bit of work which is the only downside. But working with paid software vs free open source is like chalk and cheese. With paid software most of this stuff just works, which is great. With the free software you always run into issues and then usually it's days of research / reading threads etc.. to try and figure out how to fix it. Lack of support etc.. Overall this will make maintaining the site going forward much easier and it will also allow me to give select members access to areas of the site that wasn't possible before so people can update event information and post it to the homepage or similar.

Coming back to this, I believe it's a 74 240z no? I also think they may share the same sort of wiring loom as a 240z since they still have the AMP gauge as opposed to the voltage gauge and therefore would have the shunt in the engine bay etc.. I would try disconnecting each of those relays 1 by 1 and see if it stops anything working? Like brake lights, indicators, radio, fans etc.. You may find it's all redundant by now?

You need to fold the bottom part over the inside of the console lip, your boot looks like it's sitting a bit proud / high. The clips may not allow you to attach it correctly? If not you can get genuine ones off eBay US.

Well I successfully got the site running locally on my hard drive, then did the conversion which took a while. A few loose ends to tidy up. For some reason avatars (the user pics) didn't convert for all users (majority) yet some did which was weird*. It looks like passwords converted successfully which is a massive bonus, PMs, topics, forums, members, most attachments although a small number failed and I'm not sure why or what posts they belong to yet. For some reason my account shows 0 posts, but everyone else's post count remains untouched. Simple SQL query fixes this.. *doing a bit of reading on this it could be because they are being referenced to external servers and not stored locally. Hmmmm... *edit nope checked that and doesn't seem to be the cause... darnn..

280HP in a car as light as the 240z is plenty! I've been guilty of watching this over and over... The guy who built it sent me details in a word document on his build. He was very open about what was done etc.. It's running an E31 head from memory that had a bit of work done to it by Sunbelt in the US I believe. I might try and dig it up again. Edit here is the link to the doc... https://docs.google.com/document/d/16zH5ipj2PeoAWWO5xynZO2ywUQHn3XvHErCLgRAQg1o/edit?usp=sharing ~260HP at the wheels. Not sure on dyno etc.. Also you may or may not have seen this thread? http://performanceforums.com/forums/showthread.php?67272732-L28-Datto-head-had-to-share! But looks like several of our members have seen it already, he quotes around 10K to build a similar spec L28. Obviously ancillaries will be additional costs etc..

Doubt it, for a start all the connectors are different. Is there any issue with the current wiring? Or do you just want to clean it up and remove failure points? Perhaps draw up a diagram for future reference and try removing it after taking lots of photos / writing stuff down?