gav240z

Yep love it, those radio's are expensive now as I'm sure you've seen on eBay US. Just more confirmation that all 73's had the early hitachi radio, we never got the FM style radio in AU delivered 240z's it seems. I installed my JDM radio the other day. I didn't wire it up, but just wanted to fill the void of empty radio with the OEM look. (nb: no antenna switch).

Hi Everyone, Does anyone have suggestions on where I can get replacement rubber grip for a Fairlady Z foot rest? This is what I'm talking about. http://jdm-car-parts.com/products/original-style-foot-rest-for-jdm-fairlady-z-and-roadster-sp-sr The rubber ribbed piece that sits along the top edge of the tubing. Mine is missing the rubber and I went to Clarke Rubber but they didn't have anything really suitable. So I thought I'd ask here to see if anyone has any ideas?

I don't give edit rights to forum posts, so I've updated it and edited it myself.

Portuguese spec 240z with Kobe Seiko wheels (narrow version).

Diff mount?

L-GATA motors are getting harder to find, so it's hard to say what values are. Any standard motor with high mileage is going to need quite a bit of work to refresh so I tend to agree with Scott above, that I wouldn't pay more than $600 for a long block L28 (N42 head). Exceptions are earlier L24's with E31 heads etc.. E31 heads are rare now and expensive. L24 blocks (out of 240z's are getting harder to find along with L24 cranks). P90 heads are also sought after so will command more than an N42 etc..

Yes that's correct, the bumper repair stuff is not something I've used myself but yes being flexible would be critical. The rocker panel paint is textured, I've used truck bed liner to repair my center console but it does give a relatively rough finish. Similar to what flocking looks like I guess. This is the truck bed liner I used. http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/Dupli-Color-Aerosol-Paint-Bed-Armor-Black-450g.aspx?pid=343534#Recommendations I'd probably recommend the SEM stuff. Since that's what a lot of people have used, but I couldn't find it locally. http://www.semproducts.com/refinish-flexible-coatings/texture-coating

Threads merged..

I asked someone else with this repair what they did also.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/TheZGang/permalink/958226844212454/

I've looked at this also, I think the best result is likely to be dashboard doctor. This is similar to the process they use. In my opinion there is no harm in doing the repair as Rev did, because before they will do the vacuum forming dashdoctor needs to repair cracks anyway. So provided you do a decent repair job to the dashboard and maybe you want the vinyl texture over the bumper repair texture it's similar type of work, it's just the finish that will vary. I've discussed this previously here. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/1085-dash-reskin-diy/?p=135420

It's lekker bru!

I am pretty sure it's a factory colour for 2+2's I've seen a couple in that shade, although it's a very rare hue. I have been watching this 2/2 (GS30) in Japan recently. Because it has Kobe Seiko wheels on it (or did). I think they were removed and sold separate, but initially the car was advertised with them and the seller didn't want to remove them. http://page24.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/q97120201 Yahoo! / Google Translate. Maker name Nissan Model name Fairlady ZGS30 Grade name GS30: 2 × 2 Displacement 1,900 cc Model year September 1974 Imported car model year - Mileage 42,300 km State of mileage Actual running Color system Gold, tea-based The name of the color Metallic system There was another 2+2 on eBay not long ago in the same colour and I used to see a similar coloured 2+2 driven by an old man, who used to go to the Caulfield Bowling club years ago. Had his Golden Retriever in the passenger seat and the car was totally original looking. So I don't think it was repainted but I'm happy to be corrected. *Edit some more links showing similar colours, hard to tell if like Safari Gold the lighting makes it appear different. http://www.classicandsportscar.com/classifieds/classic-cars/datsun/260z/datsun-260z-coupe-2-seat-lhd-1974/4381635 http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/1924-cars-for-sale-3rd-party-sites-ebay-carsales-etc/?p=158027 http://www.shannons.com.au/club/enthusiasts/trextreks/garage/1976-datsun-260z-22-sports/ https://www.pinterest.com/pin/423831014904562343/ I wonder if it's 214 Dark Brown (Cocoa Brown?) http://www.zhome.com/History/ZColorGallary/

No, but I can ask Lindsay Drife, he may or may not be willing to divulge the info.

Well done, home built motor?

So I saw that JayCar set up. http://www.jaycar.com.au/Kits,-Science-%26-Learning/Electronic-Project-Kits/Automotive/High-Energy-Ignition-Kit/p/KC5513 http://www.jaycar.com.au/Kits%2C-Science-%26-Learning/Electronic-Project-Kits/Automotive/Ignition-Coil-Driver/p/KC5443 Both say refer to Silicon Chip Magazine November and December 2012, I'm a bit out of my depth with this stuff but would like to learn. I see some people talking about locking out the vacuum advance set up and relying on the electronic set up for timing, but I wonder how that works in a mechanical distributor? Because the mechanical advance pulls the assembly to forward or back to advance / retard timing, so I'm wondering how you can lock it out and still achieve advance / retard timing when you are relying on the physical position of an object? Not sure if I'm explaining this correctly or not? Times like this I wish I paid more attention in electronics classes back in my University days (but it was nearly 10 years ago now) so I've forgotten a lot of stuff .

Interesting, the camshaft profile in my 72 240z is still unknown to me, it's relatively mild but has some lope. I guess measuring it up is the only way to figure out what specification it is. I would think a dyno tune would be the best way to set curve. But I really have to rebuild the SUs first, no point doing 1 and not the other. I've got richer SM needles for it so will be interesting to see the difference either way.

Interesting how do they know how to curve it for your car?

Photos of 2 more early 240z's added. HS30 00329 HS30 00836 Edit James Flett's previous car HS30 00605 was also added.

Ughh this is and isn't MSA's fault. You see most global freight companies charge flat rates for packages based on their 'cubic weight' so even if it's light the length of the tube it's in exceeds a certain dimension and therefore costs a fortune to ship... It sucks, but it also comes down to the distance between North America and Australia...

72 240z in the UK no outside shots. http://www.pistonheads.com/classifieds/used-cars/datsun/240z/1972-datsun-240z/5071168 Asking: £29,995

Did they recurve it also? I assume they needed your car for that?

I like it from a creative perspective and glad if is being done to a 280z and not an early car .

Yeah put it in neutral and make sure the crank doesn't rotate at all, as this will turn the oil pump / distributor shaft and mess up the timing relative to Top Dead Center (TDC). You will need to reset timing with a liming light anytime you remove the distributor anyway for best performance. But it should still run if you simply remove / replace and don't knock anything about..

Hi Guys, Thread revival, just wondering what options there a for running a CAS electronic ignition set up without a full blown aftermarket ECU wired up? I have a 280zx E12-80 module in my 72 240z but think it needs recurving to suit my motor. In order to run a CAS set up do I need to convert to using an ECU like megasquirt? Not sure if this is a dumb question or not but is there a modular based approach you can use, since I'll still be running carbs?