gav240z

Alan did any home market cars receive a 4 speed box? Seems odd it got a 4 speed I thought that was only North American delivered cars (HLS30's). I was under the impression the home market all had 5 speeds (the non-auto cars that is). It's possible the gearbox is from something else.

MichaelT if you post a photo of the engine bay ID plate we could confirm pretty quickly if it's a Fairlady Z or AU delivered car.

Sadly no for the short nose version. I would be interested if he did make some though! If I could get a pair of chrome trim rings I would take them into my Tafe course and ask the teacher if he had any ideas re: reproducing them. Then the hard part is vacuum forming the lens.

At the risk of going massively off topic. No I don't, but would you believe 1 of the biggest Youtube categories for online video watching is video game content? Just Google PewDiePie. I don't really get it, but others do. I will confess though I have subscribed to the Angry Nintendo Nerd channel. I get Nostalgic for the old NES console. I don't really play modern games (no time) but I still like the classics.

The sets I often see on Yahoo! Auctions are good 'used' sets, often missing fasteners and may have minor cracks in lens near mounting holes, good chrome etc.. But there is a big difference to some between good used condition and NOS in the box, with manuals, fasteners and never been used with original part no. on boxes etc.. You might not get it, but apparently there are buyers out there for such things.. If you think headlight covers are expensive check out this! http://blog.pricecharting.com/2009/07/most-expensive-nintendo-nes-game-prices.html Stadium Events in NOS shape = $41,300 USD, the game is horrible. But for collectors it's the holy grail of vintage 8 bit Nintendo games. Lot of Angry Nintendo Nerds...

A 71 Z you say... must know chassis # lol...

Just wondering: 1 x boot hatch with glass - Is this an early hatch with vents or is it a solid hatch? How rusty is it? 2 x 240z rims - 240z rims? Do you mean steel TOPY wheels? They should be stamped on the inside rim with TOPY and a date next to them also.

Asking $25,000 I'm inclined to believe it's a little old lady owner, based on the original licence plate, lambs wool covers, original radio and automatic transmission and the full service history. It seems like a legit car. If you wanted a 2+2 in original shape this is the kind of car I'd be searching for.

Nice original 2+2 will add photos later. http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/bakery-hill/cars-vans-utes/1976-nissan-datsun-260z-2plus2/1107363804

Ughhh I wish people would stop linking to that car, it was sold years ago. Owner too lazy to remove listing.

Can't hurt to start promoting it though!

Yep Andrew, there is no way I'd use the current clutch set up you have as it is. The corrosion in the flywheel is something to behold! Never seen pitting like that in 1 before, I guess it was left in the weather for a while? I will reply to your PM later. But Cozza's kit looks like a win for the price if money is tight.

Hopefully someone will reproduce these soon, I would really love a set but have other priorities for now and I'd hate to get a stone hit them and cause a crack in the lens of a NOS set.

I have 1 on my 72 240z, which I would swap for a non-fluted bonnet in the same shape (straight and rust free). However I believe member RetroZ has first refusal and I can't swap until I'm ready to repaint the replacement either red to match the rest of the car or flat black for the Works Rally Car period look . If I can't find a good non-fluted bonnet I plan to cut out the flutes and weld in replacement sheet metal to make it non-fluted. If you want vents you can vent the inspection lids on either side of the bonnet instead, which looks nicer in my opinion (very Toyota 2000GT) and can be changed out if the owner changes their mind about them later. The flutes make the bonnet look shorter and changes the proportions of the car. I much prefer the clean look without them!

Minor updates here. So fabricating the rear slam panel upper area (under the spot welded panel) is a bit hard without the right tools. Using a folder here and preferably a guillotine to cut to the right size is very helpful. I had tried to use a paper template of the whole thing but it came out badly due to all the obstacles in the way and the paper I was using was very thin and would rip on the sharp edges of the metal. So instead I measured with a rule to get dimensions of certain sections. Here you can see 2 sections I made, the first was a mess as I tried to trim the lip for the rubber seal with tin snips and on such a long piece it's very hard to cut with tin snips close to a fold. So on the right side you see the second attempt using a folder to get the nice lip and then folding again for the 30 degree bend upward. Since the car was not at Tafe as a reference a lot of this was guess work or best guess based on my measurements and observations etc.. I used paper templates from the car the night before but focused on the missing sections on each side, then measured the different between those sections with a ruler to scribe them onto the panel. Since I made this piece a little longer to give me some room for error. Sorry left side is blurry. Right side is better. The original upper edge of the beaver section has a beveled edge as opposed to completely square so I tried to replicate that as much as possible. I've left some excess metal to allow adjustments as I go. I also need to cut out the center section of the original piece as it's pretty knackered before I can put it in place completely. Shows bevel area better. How it looks so far. Reminder of how it looks underneath it all. and attached is a photo of how it's supposed to look...(another photo borrowed from the Lithuania car) This is still an experiment for me, but so far it's looking good. There is a few more fiddly bits though below this area that need to be fixed also. But I want to get this section correct before picking the whole rear panel and replacing the bottom half of the beaver panel. Side note: You can also see another members repair work on the same area in this thread.

Since Facebook links often don't work properly later. I attached a photo of the aforementioned brace piece made to prevent 'oil caning' of the hatch (at least that's what I'm guessing it was for. Photo description from Facebook.

Small update. So last night I folded down the edges of the replacement skin, as you can see the skin sits a bit high on the left hand side. This is because of the shape of the hatch, it sort of bows upward toward the middle of the hatch and down toward the edges to give it a rounded feel. As a result the edges were bit high and we needed to knock the inner edge a bit lower (where the spot welds go under the weather seal). This was a bit tricky, so I can't claim I did much here other than watch the tafe teacher reshape the edges a bit to make the skin fit properly. I now understand what he was doing, but couldn't make the mental leap there without seeing it. You can see below the new skin now just sits slightly above the original. We will need to scribe the edge where the old and new skin meet then carefully trim the original skin to meet the edge of the new skin for welding in place. However before I can weld the 2 pieces together there is a few other things to do. 1. I am going to get some KBS rust seal and pour it into the hatch. I contemplated unpicking the entire skin and frame but that would upset the edges of the frame and require work to get the skin nice and level again later for paint. Also the upper hatches don't tend to rust, it's usually the lower areas, so I think putting some rust seal into the hatch and swishing it around will hopefully coat and protect most inner areas of the hatch. I also need to coat the inside of the new skin and spot weld the support piece that goes behind the lock. The good thing about the new skin is it's slightly thicker than the old so a bit more sturdy. I noted on the Lithuanian restoration discussed here. They ended up making a brace for the rear hatch because the metal was so thin in the hatch after repairs. I don't think I'll need to do that here thankfully. That's 1 advantage of spending ages fabricating the lower section like this. 2. I still plan to remake the lower sections of the frame, as I'm not happy with the way we have repaired it. If I'm going to spend this long on it, a couple more weeks to get it right are worth it...I think, sometimes..not sure.. I also bought some OEM vents to fit to make sure I'm happy with their alignment before paintwork in future etc.. That way if I need to re-drill a hole I can do it before paint, not after.

Nice find Curtis, how did you find this 1? Is it now sold? Looks like it may have been sitting with more than 1 S30z judging by the panels on the roof.

Because non fluted is 100x better looking. Hard to say could be accident damage or rust need to see it in person.

The colour looks superb. Great to see the original hue. Clear coat makes it really pop, although not strictly original to have clear I think it looks good.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-Nissan-280Z-AM-FM-Radio-OEM-Factory-Nissan-77-78-/262196495107 260z radio. $154 USD.

If that's the case I can't imagine it has much rust if any... Should be a good car and a good price if it's rust free also.

LOLz, well done. Hopefully it spent a long time there which means very dry and no rust!

No special tools required, just a large bucket of patience so you don't damage it while removing.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-Z-Series-/182053883610 June manufactured 1970 240z. HLS30-06027 This is a pretty early car,