gav240z

Small update. Did a bit more re-shaping and trimming tonight. At some point I think I just need to commit to cutting the underlying piece and weld the 2 pieces together. However before I do that I'm going to remove the carpet, fuel tank and anything else that might catch on fire...

Next time.. I don't know the owner yet but I could ask Les Collins, Peter Mac and try reach out. Good chance I'll be over there again in future.

240K Coupe for sale. http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/wantirna/cars-vans-utes/1974-datsun-240k-coupe-aka-c110-skyline-2-door/1108026839 Asking $25k - firm price.

Previously listed here by Mossy. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/14523-73-240z-sold/

Yep can definitely relate to this...

haha, yeah it looks like I'm being greedy. However half of them have cracks in them. Either the lid or surround. I plan to use all the best bits to make good ones and then will see if I can figure out a way to repair the others.

Sadly no Oscillator with this 1...

So wasn't sure where else to put this update, so figured the build thread was as good as anywhere else... I recently went on a work trip to San Francisco and had a free Saturday before my flight, I've made a couple of contacts in the S30Z scene over that way and this weekend I met a couple more folks. A highlight was visiting a guy named Ivan who has a workshop in the Oakland area. Some of you may have seen this Petrolicious video here: His workshop had a couple of C10 Skylines in it, along with his Kenmeri and a Honda S600, early air cooled Porsche 911 and E30 BMW M3, couple of early S30z's etc.. He is also working on a couple of 1200's that are getting the GTR front end treatment. Like this car featured on Jay Leno Garage. By the way Ivan's looking for a B110 Wagon if anyone has any leads on 1, likewise for 1200 rust repair sections like lower radiator supports and rubber trims etc.. Please let me know? He seems to be keeping busy. A first for me was being given the opportunity to drive a LHD S30Z and a 280Z, which was converted from EFI to Triple Webers. Time in the day was running out and I had to head to the Airport for my evening flight, instead of getting an uber I was asked if I wanted to take the car for a spin and drive to the airport. Well I wouldn't turn down a chance to drive an S30z. What's great about S30Zs is the boot space, I was only traveling a week and normally travel light. However in this instance I took a couple of larger bags so I could fit some S30Z parts in and bring them back with me. So what was my impression of driving a 280z on the LH side? Well it takes a little getting used to the shift pattern but otherwise like riding a bike. The 280z had all it's bushings re-done and it really felt like a solid car. Since it was sans ugly bumpers and converted to early S30z rear lights it was like driving an earlier 240z/260z but a bit more solid and refined. I had a lot of fun, although I didn't really stretch her legs since she's not mine and I didn't want to drive it hard. I think finding a rust free 280z 2 seater from the US is probably a good way to get into an S30z on the cheaper end of things and really they are a great car. So what kind of treasure did I bring back with me? See below. These hubcaps were the 'earlier style', you can tell because the rear of them has less 'tabs' and the tyre valve hole lines up with the spokes on the cap. Later ones had more tabs and offset valve hole. See valve hole position. Sadly a couple have quite a bit of rust on the chrome part. Not sure if it will cause excess pitting or not..and make re-chroming difficult? I need a set of these vents to make sure I drilled the holes in the right spot of my fabricated fluted rear hatch. Better to find out it's wrong now, than after it's painted. Early steering wheel in need of full restoration. Couple of license plate lamps. and thank you for not smoking. I also got some antenna switches and a couple of other small items. Given how expensive shipping of these items are, I ship them to an address in SFO and then bring them back with me in bulk. A great thing about this classic car hobby is finding like minded individuals in other parts of the world and helping each other out.

Posted on Facebook, was trying to find it back when this thread started and couldn't.

Looks like this has already been answered but the Jeco clock is out of a 74 model 260z, you can tell the rear is different in terms of the bracket and the loom plug. You can convert them to suit an earlier dash. The others are 260z ones also. Refer to pic attached by Peter from Zclocks.com Radio is 260z unit. Although I'm not quite sure what options were available for 260z's sold here. I've seen quite a few variations and I suspect you may have got a couple of options back in the day... I can look in the parts manual to try and confirm but sadly it just lists the Nissan part no. So you don't get the manufacturer model no.

Herb the expense is in shipping the vehicles, I am currently at SFO airport about to head back, saw quite a few S30z's today. Some would be described as Californian cars and I can tell you, they rust just the same over here as they do back home. The car on eBay was obviously imported for profit and I have no problem with that, I've considered bringing some LHD examples in myself but knowing these cars well, I know that you have to be pretty careful. The advantage of a car like the 1 on eBay is that you can view it in person so although you can buy them cheap like that in the US of A you could have it arrive and get more than you bargained for. It is just the nature of the game. I actually just drove a LHD car on the way to the Airport, it was a fun experience (albeit a 280z converted to Triples and skinny bumpers etc..). I was of course driving on the RH side of the road also but I don't think it takes too much to adjust to it, certainly not as scary as I thought it was going to be (even more so seeing how aggressive SFO drivers are) the only thing that really takes adjustment for me is the shift pattern being somewhat opposite. The indicators I got used to being flipped around because I've driven a few Euro cars before that are backwards. I would not be afraid to buy a LHD car myself. Food for thought!

I think it was really a segment around the Holden's more so than other cars, so yes it wasn't the complete story but it was still interesting and I still enjoyed the bit of history.

Good video on a bit of Brock history. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=duL19oGWqoc

Just found these on Youtube. When #3 is uploaded I'll add that also.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-Z-Series-240z-/162016703151 Current bid:US $16,600.00 [ 27 bids ] with 4 days to go. HLS30 32079 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aujU1D8kMiw

Cars like that can be purchased in the US for $1,500 USD.

Ad has been removed, I suspect not all is at it seems...

This confirms what I suspect also. I'd be surprised if our L26's got the N42. Although North American market 280z's would have received later heads, but they also had L28's.

Looks like the ZA special that Classicman was looking to import a while ago. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/14279-not-a-z-but-a-p510-sss-coupe/

It looks incredible, what kind of reaction do you get when driving it? I'd imagine it turns quite a few heads.

So the reproduction trims for 74/75 model 260z's ended up not being such a great fit. I believe this is because they were really just later style trims that were modified with an assumption that the only difference between early and late was the lock position. However as I found out the earlier trims also have slightly different locating pin positions on the rear of the trim to the later ones. I don't believe that there is any issue fitting the reproduction trims to later 260z's. I've attached some photos that compare the original OEM door trim with the reproduction trim. You can see the door trim is a bit smaller on the leading edge than the original. another angle. I believe the door handle position is also slightly different between early and later cars. Which is another reason that simply drilling a hole 15 cm from the rear of the door card won't allow these trims to fit an earlier 260z. You can see the depression in the upper door trim bracket where the hole was designed to be for this door trim. So we can only assume the reproduction items were based on a later 260z style template. On the OEM trims you can see the depression is exactly where the hole is for the door lock pin. In this photo compare the position of the locating pins on the rear of the door trim. You'll see they are quite different between the 2. Again another reason why I feel these were designed for later cars only and modified to suit earlier cars without realising there was additional differences. In this particular case since the doors were re-dyed from black to white (before test fitting) we couldn't return them to the supplier. In the end I helped the owner source OEM door trims which cost more, but for the quality of the build it was necessary to go OEM. The reproductions could have been made to work with some modifications etc.. and may have been ok on a less than perfect rebuild, but the build I supplied the OEM parts for was a concourse restoration of a 260z hence it needed to be spot on. As a side note: I've noticed quite a few reproduction parts have not been up to spec of the original OEM items lately. So I'm now much more cautious when asking questions about reproductions. In 1 case I ordered a 5 speed gear knob that was advertised as a reproduction only to receive it and find the button was a RED R instead of an all white 1-2-3-4-5-R. To say I was a bit annoyed is an understatement, since the photo on eBay was the correct OEM look. Still working with the vendor on that 1.

I've noticed that Fiat has a colour on their 500's. It's called Fiat 500 colour therapy yellow or something.. What's old is new again. It should look good in that shade.

Just an FYI I wouldn't turf the console it can be repaired. NOS ones are getting super expensive too. Dashboard restoration shops can repair them to a very high standard.

How much were the prothane ones? I am in the US now should have organised a group buy could have brought 20 sets back with me.

Agree with above the box looks flogged half to death. Sitting outside a while with that rust on input shaft. Not sure what the inspection hole was cut for either.. Only way to know if it is any good would be to pull cover off and inspect gears and synchro but hard to do if not experienced. What sort of money are you looking to spend? I'm going to get my 71A box inspected, water jet blasted and seals replaced etc.. I am budgeting 1k to 1.5k to do it right. Second hand boxes you could get lucky but if I'm going to effort of engine rebuild no sense skimping on gearbox rebuild... You might get lucky with a second hand gearbox but hassle of install etc.. Removal again if it's rubbish just isn't worth doing some things twice. As for bolts not sure if auto is the same but they are special bolts I'd contact a breaker like Z Factory, Z Shop etc..