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Posted

1. Contact SW Motorsport

2. Go to a Subaru dealer and ask for the OEM diff oil to suit. Chances are it will be a rebranded Motul oil of some sort though

Posted

When i had my old sti gc8. I used Castrol lsx90 and was very happy with it. I've used the same diff oil in all my performance cars regardless of make and all was good

Posted

I use the motul 300 75/90 gear oil in my 4.1 torsen. It's been fine for me so far, no need to use regular LSD oil but it won't harm it.

 

Here's some info from motul:

Ideal for the differential, this gear oil of a GL5 rating WITHOUT limited-slip aditive is recomended for the Torsen.

 

Motul's 300 line of lubricants is a premium line designed with high temps / track use in mind but the gear oils are perfectly fine for street use as well.

Posted

I did run Penrite LSD oil in it previously with no real problems, the only issue was it 'foamed up' all the time and I was forever cleaning diff oil from the back of it.

  • 8 months later...
Posted

Cozza

 

Any news on how this played out? Do you have the diff in the car now? If so, what's it like?

 

I'm keen to hear from anyone who has done this successfully, particularly if you used the Technoversions diff mount as well.

Posted

G'day G

Yep diff is in the car, I am using an OEM mount and the side axles from Beta Motorsports.

 

I have given it a pretty hard time over about 1000 k's so far with no issues although there is a bit of play between the side axle and bearing on the drivers side. I have measured both the side axle and the StI axle to be almost identical. I don't have the tools to measure the bearing ID but like I said no issues or noises yet. Will look into it again sometime.

 

I have the Torsen type LSD unit and have heard reports of them being noisy, but mine is quiet.

Very happy with it locking up under acceleration, haven't had any issues with 1 wheel compression lock up under heavy braking either. (I think the Torsen Is only 1 way). Haven't had it on the track yet so not really pushing it.

 

I spent $1000 up front including side axles and can now buy a replacement LSD diff less than 5 years old for about $400 if I ever need to.

 

Also looks original to anyone that is not the most fastidious of enthusiasts.

 

Overall I am happy with the outcome and would recommend it to others, but am a bit nervous about the play in the axle and once I find the culprit I will let yas know.

 

Hope that helps but let me know if there is anything else you want to know.

 

Cheers

Mick

 

 

  • 3 years later...
  • Administrators
Posted

Hey Mick,

So reading this thread over again, the only part you needed to bolt a Subaru R180 LSD into your S30Z was the beta motorsports adapters (side axels) is that right?

 

Unfortunately it looks like beta motorsports is no more. John Coffey died :(.

 

Not sure if anyone is making this part or similar anymore?

FWIW I'm happy to retain the 240z Uni joint axels.

Posted (edited)

Hey Gav,

 

Yeah that's all you need to buy. You will need to pull the front flange off your original diff and swap it with the Subie one. I used a 4.44 ratio mechanical R180 from a 2000 model Sti and needed to make a hole in the moustache bar for the drain plug but I think that was because of the model diff that I chose to use.

 

There are a few variations out there that people have made instead of the beta motorsport ones.

 

From memory you may be able to try Wolf Creek Racing. I'll try and find the link. They are beta Motorsport ones as well but perhaps still have some left over or found a different manufacturer...??

 

http://www.wolfcreekracing.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=22&Itemid=31

Edited by Roady
  • Administrators
Posted

Gav,

 

Stewart Wilkins Motorsport fabricates a nice pair. You need to run R200 half shafts as the stub axles don't have the R180 centre bolt.

 

I believe I have a spare set of '260z' R200 stub axels in storage somewhere. Not sure if that would make any difference? But good to know that Stewart also makes these parts. I like to support the locals where possible!

 

Also after posting the question last night I found this website. Which is a great resource as it shows photos etc.. (I'm a visual kind of guy :D).

http://www.kangamotorsports.com/blog/2016/6/18/datsun-240z-limited-slip-differential

 

Apparently John Williams here (also does the side axels for the conversion).

https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=1691345565&fref=ts

Posted

Hey Gav

Yep as above, side axles and input flange is all that's required.

I have read of instances where the more recently built side axles are snapping. I think these are the Wolf Creek items but not sure.

You will sometimes find the Beta Motorsports axles come up for sale.

To be honest, I'm not sure it is the cheapest option anymore as Subi diffs seem to be attracting higher prices these days.

  • Administrators
Posted

I found 1 for sale for around $300 but it doesn't have K cast into it, it has HC stamped on it, not sure if that makes any difference.

 

It's from a 2008/9 WRX 4.4 ratio.

Posted (edited)

Mine doesn't have a "K" either.
Wow! $300 seems quite cheap for today's market. I bought one a couple years ago, when it arrived it turned out to be an R160. If I didn't have a 1600 in the shed I would have sent it back. Only sti's had R180's all other Subis used R160. I'd ask the seller to measure the distance between the moustache bar top cover plate bolts to confirm what you're getting.
Do you know if it's a Torsen or clutch pack type LSD.

 

Sorry, cover plate bolts NOT moustache bar bolts. Serious case of hang over / man flu.

 

Top cover plate bolt spacings

R160 ~ 60mm

R180 ~ 80mm

R200 ~ 90mm

 

See attachment

post-101810-0-88443600-1493602981_thumb.jpg

Edited by Cozza
Posted

I found 1 for sale for around $300 but it doesn't have K cast into it, it has HC stamped on it, not sure if that makes any difference.

 

It's from a 2008/9 WRX 4.4 ratio.

 

Gav,

 

Talk to Stewie Wilkins he will tell you which model Sti diff to get.

Posted

When changing over the pinion flange are you guys checking the backlash again?

 

Isn't there a crush tube and a shim washer which can be damaged/squashed when over torqued with a rattle gun. Wouldn't that then alter the back lash?

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