RB VS L

[sco_aus]

A 6 cyl + "A few cylinders" =9   Sorry, just being a smart ass

[620Z]

Ha Ha well my question to you Scott would be where has your car been for the 2008 Tassie Trip, the 2009 Thredbo trip or even Tassie 2010? Is it going yet and will we see it at Thredbo in 2011?

I think my car was at least a few seconds faster than the Supra even with a bent drive shaft that year. But my car makes it every year to Tassie & Thredbo Trip for the last 10 years or so we have been running these events. 

But this ain't about V8's. I guess my question below was where are all these wiz bang RB Zeds? I suspect most are either still being built or in the workshop fixing relibility issues. But the L6's are talking in droves on the street.

[bluerat]

I like your work Craig!

 

It's a shame we havn't heard from the member who had an L, then a RB and has gone back to the mighty L.....

[sco_aus]

You bite so easily Craig   And yes it will be in Thredbo if I can make it.

[sco_aus]

oh and the Supra was less than a second off your pace at Symmons on street tires and it kept up with you on a couple of spirited acceleration points

 

 

bzzzzzzzzzzz

 

[PZG302]

Well unless I am missing something I don't see any Zeds with RB motors going down the track here in Vic. If they are so fast and reliable maybe someone with an RB motor in their Zed might finally get it on the road let alone reliable enough to race on the track and possible back up there stories. Plenty of "L" series Zeds flying around the track and getting fast times. 

Then maybe we should talk resale value comparing the two. Hmmm

For me well I still think both are missing a few cylinders. 

 

That's because to run in any class other than 2A sports cars a Zed must run the original L series engine. If you run in 2A, then you will be up against some pretty impressive cars like Group C type sports cars and things like clubmans with rotories and so on, with no hope of being competitive.

[GV260]

For my 20c I can't go past the induction noise of triple's on song - just glorious, which you can only get with the N/A L series. I love nostalgia and as such the L series for me. Nonetheless, it is somewhat horses for course in that it depends how you intend to use your Z, and what condition it was when purchased will to some degree determine the most appropriate block. My race L28 is almost done and I can't wait ............

[RBZ 260]

RIPS 240z hmm not an L or V8. 7sec pass down the 1/4. yeah i agree preety damn slow.  he can still drive it on the street. kinda on two wheels or sidways most of the time if pushed. but he used to drive it to shops and back without too much fuss.

 

than the Vl commondoors. hmm quickest street/drag cars are all u guessed it RB powerd.

 

even seen quite a few toranas with yep RB turbo in it doing low 10 sec pass for a street car.

 

what did the GTR do to the commodores and fords  guess again RB in it.

 

yeah RB is pretty crap motor.  what can i say. its based on a proven rubbish L series motor that everyone hates.  LOL................

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Scando]

For me , it's always been a cost thing.  I know i wouldn't have been able to get the same lap times as cheaply at each stage of the development of the car with an RB platform.  But now, to make more power I really need to pull revs which is where it will get expensive with an L-series.  I beleive the best way forward for me now is an RB25/30 hybrid.

 

Bluerat is right though, the looks I still get when people see an L-series under the bonnet are priceless 

[luvemfast]

It's a shame we havn't heard from the member who had an L, then a RB and has gone back to the mighty

 

You're right, where is Dimitri?

Only person qualified to have an opinion from experience on both.

[d3c0y]

I'm talking N/A RB vs N/A Lseries here.

 

From a street car point of view, you already have an Lseries and if you dont have an L28 its not much to get one and put it in.

 

Take into account buying an RB and doing the conversion, fuel pumps computers etc, and see what sort of a bill you have at the end of it.

 

At least $4k?

 

If you went and spent that on the Lseries, I bet it's faster than the stock N/A rb.

 

Purley a $ for $ comparison

[sco_aus]

I wish it was $4k...

[NZeder]

I like your work Craig!

 

It's a shame we havn't heard from the member who had an L, then a RB and has gone back to the mighty L.....

One day I might answer that question too. I still have 2 L6 in storage for when I am not happy with the RB between the struts. But first I should finish the car and see how well my N/A Triple DCOE TB's RB goes.

 

This is my modern theme Z432 project that I started 13 years ago and I still have not finished (too many distraction during this time, 6 motorbikes, 4 zed, 4 other datsun, and living in different countries all added to the project delays, reads $$ spent elsewhere) but my theme is 260z 2 seater = later shell than the original Z432 shell so having a later RB 2600cc between the struts ties in with the 260z original 2600cc engine. I have never owned a turbo car so don't know what I am missing and love to see N/A take it to turbo'd cars on the track. So keeping with the Z432 but modern = DCOE throttle bodies aka modern take on the DCOE carbs.

 

Given the question is N/A RB vs N/A L6 one day I can comment on the differences until that day.............I will just hold my tongue

[.]

Sorry to highjack this thread but how about a TVR Speed 6 4.0L (3996 cc/243.851 cu in) 360-405 bhp N/A straight 6        oooooohhhhh yyeeaahh    sorry I need to go change my undies

[Hunter]

I love the sound of an L series, have an L26, L28 and L28ET, have not had chance to drive my RB25DET yet, but the sound an RB makes compared to an L is lacking even with the exhaust off.

 

But in reality with the roads I drive here in Tas, hold your 100km/h+ around all the corners and you get there faster. So it is all up to suspension and tyre mods. brakes really not too much of an issue as you drive with the gears not the brakes.

 

Basically have more than one car an L and a RB. I believe sticking with Nissan no matter which engine you choose.

[Zedman240®]

I thought I'd add my 2c here since I went from L28 - RB25DE - L24 all NA. Been a tad busy and only have time at work  . I love both engines but one thing the RB had over the L seies was the smoothness while driving and the engine wanting to rev! The only thing that held back the RB was the camshafts; once you revved around 5500rmp, it would just run out of breath. I had the same EFI system on all the engines and just had to make a manifold for the RB. Power wise, out of a stock 2.5 liter, was very impressive. Worked L28 had 153 rwkw, RB25 stock had 120 rwKw, and the stock L24 has 92rwKw. If I had my choice, the Rb would still be in bewteen the strut towers with some nice lumpy cams and nice stainless headers courtesy of Mike! I did have nice induction noise out of all three but you just can't simply beat a twin cam head...

[RBZ 260]

well said Dimitri.

 

 

 

 

 

[d3c0y]

What work did you have done to your L28? 

[Zedman240®]

Nothing drastic, just 74' cam, some mild head work and the ITB injection. Sounded and went very well!

[bluerat]

So Dimitri, with the huge amount of RB turbo parts/info out there, is the N/A engine the other end of the scale? were cam's, good high comp pistons, good info etc hard to get hold of?

 

At the end of the day, most people who do a conversion, go for a turbo RB, great power, plenty of support and hot up parts, relativly easy, where abouts if you want to stay N/A the same can be said for the L series?

[Zedman240®]

It is a bit harder to source good components for a NA build for the RB. A good set of cams I got priced around $990. Also, if Mike (Nzeder) didn't offer me some nice stainless headers for the RB, I'd be looking at about $2k for a new set or for some mild steel ones that wouldv'e had to be custom made for about $500. I never chased up pistons as I wanted to see how far I can go with a virtually stock head/block combo. If I had plenty of cash, I would've kept the RB and just rebuilt the L24 and kept it aside. Now its being built and installed in the zed. If you want good HP and not fussed about NA/Turbo, by all means go for the DET. If you love induction noise and have some spare cash, definately do a NA build. Its not a waste of time. You are better off in my opinion to spend the cash on a RB NA build than the L series (that is if you don't mind a change in motor type from L series to RB) because I think you will always end up with more HP with the RB. Make a 3 liter bottom end with the twin cam head, some nice EFI setup with 50-55mm throttle bodies and I'm sure you can get around 180Kw at the wheels without a turbo..

[furrybarry]

I'll chime in!

 

I've had an RB26 almost as long as my L26. Both great engines.

Both well suited to the chassis they came in.

One has more sensors than you can count and the doesn't even have a single transistor.

One has 500hp and the other one has enough to be fun.

One makes 10" semi slicks and 4wd struggle and the other lets unassisted rack and pinion steering, macpherson struts and an open diff handle brilliantly.

One sounds like a sneezing, droning pig and the other sounds like a straight six should.

 

I can definitely see the appeal of a high revving Carburetted RB conversion though. Best of both worlds?

 

[timzcarman]

I must say that after seeing Dimitri's engine build (Intake mainly) It really got me thinking about my ideal Z car engine.

 

I think I found it.

 

http://www.spoolimports.com/content/SPOOLNISSANRB30STROKERCRANK.asp

 

RB25 Head, RB30 block, Spool stroker crank, 50/55mm ITB's, some custom headers and while im spending money why not a Motec ECU to top it off.

 

I wish I paid more attention at school!

[GV260]

If money wasn't an issue, wouldn't the dream motor be an S20 head on an L28 block with a diesel crank for 3.1 ltr running aftermarket EFI 50mm throttle bodies? You'd have the best of both the R and L series then .......

[Zedman240®]

Instead of the S20 head (which only really fits the S20 block) a real easy to obtain OS Giken head would be the best on the L28 block with the rest:

with a diesel crank for 3.1 ltr running aftermarket EFI 50mm throttle bodies? You'd have the best of both the R and L series then .......