A couple of paint questions

[NickF]

1 when I paint the scuttle panel  should it be painted un fastened in position with masking paper under neath?ie no paint on wiper motor cover and no paint on screws

2 should the plenum chamber be battleship  grey (red paint) or does it depend on top coat

3 tail gate hinge  rubbers and metal retainer painted in position

4 bonnet hinge painted fitted

5 wing bolts painted

Thanks in anticipation

Nick

[gilltech]

There was a thread on here some years back discussing those very same questions but I can't find it. Good questions for HS30-H and/or C.A.R.

[AndBir]

16 hours ago, NickF said:

1 when I paint the scuttle panel  should it be painted un fastened in position with masking paper under neath?ie no paint on wiper motor cover and no paint on screws

2 should the plenum chamber be battleship  grey (red paint) or does it depend on top coat

Based on my 1973 made 260Z it appears that the scuttle was painted in position with no masking paper underneath. However the wiper motor and linkage would not have been in place at the time.

So, other than the overspray through the scuttle panel slots, the plenum area remains the grey undercoat colour as shown below (just filter out the surface rust)

[joe71_240z]

By "Wing" Im assuming you mean "Fender" bolts which were painted.

[C.A.R.]

On 12/16/2024 at 6:53 PM, NickF said:

1 when I paint the scuttle panel  should it be painted un fastened in position with masking paper under neath?ie no paint on wiper motor cover and no paint on screws.
A. Paint it OFF the car.

2 should the plenum chamber be battleship  grey (red paint) or does it depend on top coat
A. Top of the plenum should be in Grey.

3 tail gate hinge  rubbers and metal retainer painted in position.
A. No. Paint the hinges and tailgate off the vehicle.

4 bonnet hinge painted fitted
A. The bonnet hinge assembly is plated then painted. Lord knows why. I just have the assembly plated in gold & leave it like that.
Paint the bonnet off the car.

5 wing bolts painted
A. No. Fit the doors and front guards into position & use generic bolts to hold everything in position, then swap them out for the OEM replated fasteners during reassembly.

Thanks in anticipation

Nick

 

[gilltech]

Ditto AndBir: my early unrestored RS30 scuttle panel had been sat in place while the colour coat was applied; under the panel front lip and on the back and all inside the scuttle recess is just the greenish-grey primer.

Same situation with the front guards, the colour coat doesn't extend under the inner lips of the guards, remove them and you see the greenish-grey primer along the frame.

One can do much better than the original factory expediency, as C.A.R. and others advise. IMO painted over fasteners, hinges and rubbers even if strictly concours factory assembled correct just look like the painter or restorer was in a hurry and couldn't be bothered.

On my car I eventually removed the colour coat from the bonnet springs, as I discovered they were already plated, and the colour coat rubs off in places over time and is hard to maintain and looks crap.

 

[joe71_240z]

C.A.R Wrote

5 wing bolts painted
A. No. Fit the doors and front guards into position & use generic bolts to hold everything in position, then swap them out for the OEM replated fasteners during reassembly.

I reply

It really depends on what you are trying to achieve. I have seen many original paint cars in my time and all of the fender/wing bolts have been painted from the factory. So if you want to go strictly factory they need to be painted. 

[NickF]

Great response from all thank you

What I would like to achieve is a restoration that doesn't look like one.

No plated parts, used parts where possible and no fancy paint.

Keep as much of original metal as I can.

Seems a lot harder than it should be.

Nick

[C.A.R.]

21 hours ago, NickF said:

Great response from all thank you

What I would like to achieve is a restoration that doesn't look like one.

No plated parts, used parts where possible and no fancy paint.

Keep as much of original metal as I can.

Seems a lot harder than it should be.

Nick

So basically no care or attention?
Gotcha.

[NickF]

1 hour ago, C.A.R. said:

So basically no care or attention?
Gotcha.

A bit harsh😠

Merry Christmas

[gilltech]

Quote

Seems a lot harder than it should be.

Not easy to do. The reality is that fresh paint is going to show up everything else that's weathered to some degree, especially in the engine bay, and externally all the window trims, bumpers and badges. So best not aim for a mirror shine!

Eventually fresh paint will dull off if you don't polish it too hard, and attain some patina with a few scratches and chips but that could take a while. It will be less obvious the paint is new if you don't paint over bolts, rubbers etc as the factory did, as they would otherwise draw the eye.

Always hard to know when to stop with these sorts of projects, until one runs out of time, interest and/or money. Or all three.

[NickF]

Agree on paint 2 pack and base and clear is one of the biggest mistakes on restorations that go for "factory finish"

Will paint in acrylic lacquer 

Not a fan of "nut and bolt restorations" seems like a waste of money to re-plate  anything let alone window winder mechanisms and any thing that can't be seen

Just going for an every day driver that's solid and  not over restored.

Nick