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Posted

hey guys

 

tim has stated in his build post that he didnt section the struts, i am waiting anxiously for somesome one to mention they have sectioned there sturts,

 

Loui

 

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Posted

Well its seems the 'experts' have seen this but no one wants to comment.

 

From my extensive coil over sleeving knowledge (about 2hrs) I would assume they're refering to extending the small distance from the top of the strut tube to the top spring perch. Currently when in a very lowered position there is only approx 2 inches of strut/spring travel available before it 'bottoms out'. By 'sectioning' the strut tube, I'm guessing you take a 'section' of tube out (so the thread is still at the top) to shorten the tube and increase the strut/spring travel distance. This would require a shorter strut insert of course.

Posted

Well its seems the 'experts' have seen this but no one wants to comment.

 

From my extensive coil over sleeving knowledge (about 2hrs) I would assume they're refering to extending the small distance from the top of the strut tube to the top spring perch. Currently when in a very lowered position there is only approx 2 inches of strut/spring travel available before it 'bottoms out'. By 'sectioning' the strut tube, I'm guessing you take a 'section' of tube out (so the thread is still at the top) to shorten the tube and increase the strut/spring travel distance. This would require a shorter strut insert of course.

 

spot on

 

Loui

Posted

So if I've got this right.  You cut off the top 25mm or so, then cut out the next 50mm or so.  Then weld the first 25m back on, so the top can be screwed back on.

 

This would allow greater shocker travel (or a shorter shocker be fitted) and allow the top of the tube to still be sealed.

 

How did I go?

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Posted

Yes, the reason for sectioning, is because if you just lower the spring perch only, it will lower the car but you lose that much of the shock travel. So if you hit a big enough bump, the shock will bottom out (if you have Koni reds, be prepared to re-build them) and hit the bump stops. Then if that happens, instead of the shock doing any dampening, you will be riding on the bump stop instead of getting any suspension movement. If you section the strut, you remove as much as the spacer you need to move the shock up within the tube for that big nut on the top to hold it down. When that happens, you lower the car that 1" but yet you still retain full suspension travel. remove more, depending on the shock you use, you lower the car further but still maintain full suspension travel without hitting the bump stops. Without sectioning, looks good for just putting around but when you start driving hard around corners, you will definately feel it!

Posted

Others have stated now what sectioning the struts is all about (that will teach me to go out and be way from the PC) and there is some good info/threads on this at Hybridz.

 

If you research you will find talk of using golf or toyota koni's etc as the incerts/shocks these are selected as they are shorter then the 240z/260z units and work in the housing once they are sectioned.

 

 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Guys I've fitted these (335lbs) and my kyb inserts are not stong enough on rebound so i am in the process of getting stronger adjustable inserts such as koni yellows. Does anyone know which inserts can be used, I havent sectioned the strut tubes. Sleeves are 100mm below strut top so can section them at a later date if I want to and if the inserts are going to require a spacer then I will section them. Brands and part numbers would be great  ;D Thanks

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Posted

Koni Yellows for 240z are the 8641-1060SPORT. Fit in the front and rear... A 20mm spacer is needed for the front pair though (with a small loss in travel the only downside). When and if you section the struts, when you remove that 20-25mm section, you use the threaded sleeve as a reinforcement where the join is.

Posted

Koni Yellows for 240z are the 8641-1060SPORT. Fit in the front and rear... A 20mm spacer is needed for the front pair though (with a small loss in travel the only downside). When and if you section the struts, when you remove that 20-25mm section, you use the threaded sleeve as a reinforcement where the join is.

 

is there any other option to the Koni's as they are about $250 each corner

 

Loui

Posted

is there any other option to the Koni's as they are about $250 each corner

 

Loui

That does depend on the spring rate you are using. Koni's can be re-valved to suit heavier springs others :( can't.

I believe tokico illumina are good to 250lb and it might be the same for the kyb's hence this post.

Posted

Thanks Dimitri. I have the 6kg/mm or 335lbs spring rate. With the KYB's there seems to be zero rebound control.  Did some research on the koni's and they are now $630 a pair!  :o  Other members have said thet sectioned 50mm from the struts, which sounds about right to keep the springs captive. If this has been done what struts would they use as the koni's wouldn't fit  ???

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Posted

50mm is alot to remove from a strut but if that's what you wanted to do, Koni can shorten the shocks too to suit. The car we be ultra low but yet still have a good amount of suspension travel.

Posted

By cutting out 50mm from the struts, I was able to use the old 240z front shocks on the back and a set of KYB's for toyota celica on the front. So I guess you should be able to get Koni's to fit.

 

Until I put a set of 6mm/kg springs for the back I can not comment on the damping (stupidly put soft springs at rear, and have not changed yet until new springs are ordered). Strongly don't recommend anyone else try this, as the ride is not good - like an old fishing trawler.

Posted

My 260z struts are 50mm lower than stock (front are same length as 240z remember) and the koni yellow sports were from a celica.....I have partnumber written down somewhere I will find it and post shortly.

Posted

Just to clarify its for the front they are 55mm struts with 6kg/mm springs, will go lighter for the rear to allow more compliance and good power down on exit of corners. Lime 6kgs in the rear is farkin heavy for the rear of a zed imho, what rate do you have in the front? The KYB excelg's wont handle it, mine were in perfect working order. My goal is to have sufficient rebound control and keep the springs captive at full drop if i'm able.  :) 

Posted

I have 5kg's in the front, 4kg's in the rear. With the intention of replacing the rears with 6kg springs. The front still feels "soft" with 5kg's, but I will try swapping the current front / rear combo before I order some 6kg springs.

Posted

The 6kg feel nice in the front, quite firm but not rough, corners flat with minimal roll. I'll probbably go for the 4kg in the rear with koni's already in. Going for the koni yellow sports in the front as they should be able to handle the heavy spring rate.

Posted

Gareth, I HIGHLY recommend you get them valved correctly for the intended spring rate.

It's like only doing half a job if you don't...

Posted

Yeah, I've been chatting with the chap from toperformance about it and still have to work out the final rate required.  ;)  Apparently anything over 250-300lbs will require koni yellows or billsteins, Interestingly tokico illuminas are only rated to 250lbs.

Posted

That is interesting, illuminas are pretty stiff when you turn the adjustment up

Posted

I have also found some Kyb agx's to suit 240/260z same as the koni yellows and actually made for 300zx's so require a small spacer. They are 8-way adjustable and suit heavy spring rates. Also they are around $200 cheaper than the koni's  :D

Posted

There two versions, standard length 300zx kyb 8-way adjustable with auto vavling. Then there is the short version which is uprated 4-way adjustable with auto valving (requires a 25mm spacer on top) these were $480 + post. Part number was KYB AGX 365056, but I'm unsure which insert this is for. I got mine through Datsport and found them to be very helpful and  much better priced than the Koni's  ;)  Give Baz a call tell him Gareth sent you.

Posted

There two versions, standard length 300zx kyb 8-way adjustable with auto vavling. Then there is the short version which is uprated 4-way adjustable with auto valving (requires a 25mm spacer on top) these were $480 + post. Part number was KYB AGX 365056, but I'm unsure which insert this is for. I got mine through Datsport and found them to be very helpful and  much better priced than the Koni's  ;)  Give Baz a call tell him Gareth sent you.

 

thats awesome thank you

 

Loui

 

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