RB30X Posted October 17, 2009 Posted October 17, 2009 Go to photobucket and create an account its free. Upload your pics then post links on here. Quote
C.A.R. Posted October 17, 2009 Posted October 17, 2009 I've currently got an eye infarksion, so it's rather painfull to go outside into the sunshine... SO I hope you guys appreciate these. The things I do for this community... (I can Email higher res. pics to those interested). 51mm dia. strut tubes. CO spring top hat needs to be bored out to the dia. of the damper piston/shaft, so it it a neat sliding fit. Front: from the top of the strut TUBE to the top of the threaded sleeve is 100mm. Rear: from the top of the strut TUBE to the top of the threaded sleeve is 110mm. If you doing this in the car a 2" exhaust clamp can be used to support the bottom of the sleeve. The cars full weight can then be lowered onto the suspension & adjustment of the threaded sleeve & ride height can be made. NOTE!: I DID NOT section the strut tubes. Rear suspension pics: Quote
C.A.R. Posted October 17, 2009 Posted October 17, 2009 Front suspension & ride height. The rear of Sulio's Zed can be lowered another 120mm(!) The front another 60mm (approx). Quote
limezed Posted October 17, 2009 Posted October 17, 2009 Struggling to get photos up...sorry. Looks same as Lurch's photos except I cut out 50mm of strut (above and below the spring perch. Then butt welded the top part of the strut (threaded bit) onto the lower part of the strut. Welds were ground flush and the threaded adjustable sleeve was slipped over the newly welded setction. The threaded sleeve was then welded at the top and bottom. Ride height - originally there was 80mm between the top of the tyres and the guard lip. Now it's droped to 10mm. Lurch - so you recommend firmer rate springs on the rear than the front? Quote
C.A.R. Posted October 17, 2009 Posted October 17, 2009 LimeZed - either same rate all round OR go slightly firmer in the rear. That's what a lot of the Victorian based Zed guys do if they are doing any circuit work. Certainly helps them 'turn-in'... Quote
OZ001 Posted October 29, 2009 Posted October 29, 2009 I believe 280s also have a 55mm strut tube, can anyone verify for me? yes they are it measured 55mm on my 1979 280zx Quote
RB30X Posted December 8, 2009 Posted December 8, 2009 Lurch (or any other experts) can you tell me if 260z strut tubes although larger in diameter, can be used in 240z's. Reason I ask is I'd like to chop up the 260z fronts and rears I have sitting in the shed rather than choping up my 240z ones. If everything bolts up the same then there shouldn't be a problem, but if there is a few differences then I'll just order a 51mm set for my 240z tubes. Thanks. Quote
NZeder Posted December 8, 2009 Posted December 8, 2009 Yes 260z stuff will fit in a 240z and 240z into 260z so long as the you get the rear hight correct due to differences in the rear strut towers (depends on the model). Quote
RB30X Posted March 28, 2010 Posted March 28, 2010 I've got a fresh set of these sitting at home now and I have one quick question before the install. Will modifying my original suspension with these coil over sleeves make them illegal or require an engineers certificate to get a rwc? cheers Quote
BenZed Posted March 28, 2010 Author Posted March 28, 2010 Not sure what you need for RWC in VIC so can't answer that, sorry. It wouldn't stop a car getting pink-slipped in NSW. Quote
kalium Posted March 29, 2010 Posted March 29, 2010 I've got a fresh set of these sitting at home now and I have one quick question before the install. Will modifying my original suspension with these coil over sleeves make them illegal or require an engineers certificate to get a rwc? cheers If you're chopping the struts, I think you need a mod plate in QLD Quote
RB30X Posted March 29, 2010 Posted March 29, 2010 Not chopping them in half, just removing the spring perches to slide the sleeve over. Quote
nizm0zed Posted March 29, 2010 Posted March 29, 2010 To my knowledge (as an ex ACT rego inspector) No, fitting coil over suspension does not make your car unroadworthy. having it below 100mm minimum ground clearance AND/OR more than 2/3rds suspension travel is considered unroadworthy. However, Modifying via welding of the origional suspension components would require engineering approval, keeping within the minimum 2/3rds suspension travel and minimum 100mm ground clearance rules. Quote
Riceburner Posted April 9, 2010 Posted April 9, 2010 Guys i am fitting a set to the front of my 240, not sectioning the struts either i'm not too worried about having full travel. Do i have to run the helper spring, what does it do? Can i just run the main spring, are they any advantages or disadvantages in doing it this way? It's the 6kgmm spring rate. Quote
RB30X Posted April 9, 2010 Posted April 9, 2010 The helper spring is compressed flat with the cars weight on it and then its up to the normal spring. When the car is raised off the ground, the helper spring keeps the tension and the other spring in position. Thats how I understand it anyway. Quote
RB30X Posted April 10, 2010 Posted April 10, 2010 Just starting my front conversion and I can't get those bloody nuts off the strut tube. All I've got is 2 pipe wrenches to try and unscrew the thing but it won't budge after a soak in crc, any ideas??? A 40+ ring spanner would be nice. Quote
FLEXZED Posted April 10, 2010 Posted April 10, 2010 hey mate had the same prob, so i got a bit off heat onto the strut tube and they came off easy but i am changing the inserts loui Quote
Riceburner Posted April 11, 2010 Posted April 11, 2010 I use stillsons (pipewrench) on mine, makes it sooo easy. Bunnings might have a cheap set that will do the trick, get the thin ones, that way you can tighten up the nut without removing the suspension if it ever comes loose. Mine are 18" from memory. Quote
BenZed Posted April 11, 2010 Author Posted April 11, 2010 Guys i am fitting a set to the front of my 240, not sectioning the struts either i'm not too worried about having full travel. Do i have to run the helper spring, what does it do? Can i just run the main spring, are they any advantages or disadvantages in doing it this way? It's the 6kgmm spring rate. Bear in mind that the shock travel determines how much suspension droop you have. The overall length of the spring and helper spring supplied is still less than the original spring, so unless you set the ride height quite high, the spring may not be held captive at full droop (like if you go over a crest in the road). For this reason it makes sense to fit a shock with shorter travel that will keep the spring captive at full droop. Also when fitting these springs you should be fitting a stiffer damper that suits the 6kg/mm spring rate anyway, so it makes sense to use a shorter one while you are at it. Quote
RB30X Posted April 13, 2010 Posted April 13, 2010 Guys this is so easy, you should all get some. You've seen the final results, but I have included some pics of the inbetween process in case you were wondering. Quote
BenZed Posted April 13, 2010 Author Posted April 13, 2010 Great pics, thanks a lot for posting them up (saves me a lot of explaining) Quote
kalium Posted April 14, 2010 Posted April 14, 2010 Guys this is so easy, you should all get some. I hope you sectioned those bad boys while you had them out ? Quote
NZeder Posted April 14, 2010 Posted April 14, 2010 I hope you sectioned those bad boys while you had them out ? yes I hope so too Quote
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