Moderators Zedman240® Posted August 19, 2008 Author Moderators Share Posted August 19, 2008 When I did chat to them about the mounts not sitting right, they have never heard of any mount needing to be modified. But I have been asking around before I started this conversion, because I always like to do alot of research before I dive into anything this big. I forgot who I spoke too but I remember them saying they too had to modify their mounts slightly. I hope my car chassis isn't out of alignment! I do remember checking squareness of the chassis rails by going underneath and measuring diagonals and they were within 3mm's of each other. I've been told that back in 1970 building tolerances weren't that strict so that's why you find one panel fits one car but doesn't fit another. There is only one way to find out....Its not the end of the world if they don't go in without any mods; it can be modified without much drama. CRS didn't charge me for the mods to my mounts. They were quite professional about the whole deal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hunter Posted August 19, 2008 Share Posted August 19, 2008 Good to hear CRS seems to be the way for me, unless I buy a conversion out of someone elses car that pop up on the odd occassion Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NZeder Posted August 20, 2008 Share Posted August 20, 2008 I don't have the suspension in my zed so I am not sure if there is any misalignment with the diff just yet but looking at it from under the car it looks about right, and I think I can move things around a little on the mounts,block to get it just about right. My car is a 76 260z 2 seater and also it has been on a chassis machine at one point in its life after a large rollover at the track back in the late 80's by the previous owner so when you look at the work done to put the car right I think they might have gotten it straight (in fact my brother/panel beater was happy with the car when I purchased it stating it was done correctly) So maybe there is some differences between a 240z chassis and the 260z chassis (well there are lots if you have owned a few zed, 70 240z, 71, 240z, 73 240z, 76 260z 2 seater, you get to see the difference between the model/chassis/evolution etc) as the CRS mounts were for a 260z. Here is a pic I got from the last owner of the damage done back in the 80's (sorry for slight off topic) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Zedman240® Posted August 28, 2008 Author Moderators Share Posted August 28, 2008 Another update for this week. Seems with this conversion its been one of those "one step forward, two steps back" deals. Got it back from Wolf (AEM) in Bayswater yesterday, runs fine but after giving it a little rev, a heap of water decided to spew out from near the water pump! I used high quality Permatex high temp copper sealant on the pump but looks like it gave way! I was going to video it running but a stream of hot water erupting from the front wouldn't make it a pleasurable viewing...Plus catching a flu on Sunday night hasn't helped one bit! Tomorrow I will start stripping it down again and have a look what happened. Thinking should I make a paper gasket instead of using sealant? Just picturing this happening at a sprint at Winton....and how can I get it home? It did sound great when it was running though!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NZeder Posted August 28, 2008 Share Posted August 28, 2008 Well how to a put this - great news on it running and sounding great, not so good news about the water pump/sealant issue. No news on my font again still waiting on the body like I have been for 10 years now - family.....got to love a family job....I just want to get this project done once and for all.... Pleased you have made good progress Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C.A.R. Posted August 28, 2008 Share Posted August 28, 2008 Glad to hear it's running Dimitri Pity about the water pump though. A paper gasket is probably a better option. And when you go to reseal it, wipe the surfaces down with prep sol/thinners/acetone to help the sealant bond Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Zedman240® Posted August 29, 2008 Author Moderators Share Posted August 29, 2008 Ahh..Thanks again Lurch! This time I went with a paper (ACL) gasket on the water pump and no leaks! Finished it again for the 3rd time today! I've become an expert on cambelts on the RB's! Anyways, video is on youtube; still pending when I left it last though but heres the link of it running finally! On tomorrow's agenda is to reduce some of the front camber and increase the ride height a smidge, then get an exhaust made then the dyno session with the all important figures to see if it was all worth it! Nzeder, hope to see yours in this state real soon! I want to hear your setup more!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NZeder Posted August 29, 2008 Share Posted August 29, 2008 man that sound of the triple tb sucking make me want to get my car back ASAP so I can get mine running too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris240 Posted August 29, 2008 Share Posted August 29, 2008 100% jealous.......... awesome sound. I also counted 37 switches & buttons had to be flicked before you had to turn the key !!! good stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Zedman240® Posted August 29, 2008 Author Moderators Share Posted August 29, 2008 heheh...I did get rid of the ignition switch before as it started to play up, so in went the missile switch ignition and start button! In the video I did forget to turn on the main isolator before I tried to start the engine. I made it all plug in anyways so I cant put it back to normal at anytime..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glen Posted August 30, 2008 Share Posted August 30, 2008 can wait to hear this car in real life, im thinking the RB route instead of throwing $$ at my current motor. Would have to be a lot cheaper within reason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
modular9 Posted August 30, 2008 Share Posted August 30, 2008 Amazing sound. Amazing work. Three thumbsup from me. Sounds absolutley brilliant.HAve downloaded the youtube vid and using your throttle body porn as my ring tone. Keep us posted on the dyno runs and the sound after the zorst goes on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators gav240z Posted August 30, 2008 Administrators Share Posted August 30, 2008 heheh...I did get rid of the ignition switch before as it started to play up, so in went the missile switch ignition and start button! In the video I did forget to turn on the main isolator before I tried to start the engine. I made it all plug in anyways so I cant put it back to normal at anytime..... How awesome, great work. Perhaps we can put the whole process into a front page article and a how-to guide for anyone else wanting to do it? I love the ignition switch, I want one. Very race car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glen Posted August 30, 2008 Share Posted August 30, 2008 How awesome, great work. Perhaps we can put the whole process into a front page article and a how-to guide for anyone else wanting to do it? I love the ignition switch, I want one. Very race car. Have to agree! would like to see a step by step aswell when Dimitri get the time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Zedman240® Posted August 30, 2008 Author Moderators Share Posted August 30, 2008 I'll get onto it today.... parts for it are available from Repco and Jaycar easily. I'm hoping the wiring is the same for 240/260 Ignition key switch looms though.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glen Posted September 5, 2008 Share Posted September 5, 2008 starting thinking about doing the ignition switch and thought of this thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Zedman240® Posted September 5, 2008 Author Moderators Share Posted September 5, 2008 Already did the diagram; its under the electrical tech thread. Not sure how to add the link plus I'm at work ready to close up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glen Posted September 12, 2008 Share Posted September 12, 2008 thanks dude, i tried to do the link and i see what you mean. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C.A.R. Posted September 12, 2008 Share Posted September 12, 2008 TaDa! http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,2922.0.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Zedman240® Posted October 6, 2008 Author Moderators Share Posted October 6, 2008 Well, since this thread been a tad quiet, I thought I'll add just a quick update on this conversion! Tonight finished swapping the throttle linkages to an arm per each throttle body. When I took it in for the dyno session, we couldn't obtain a decent idle, so it was recommended I replace the old setup (plus I found a couple of butterflies that weren't closing together on the same throttle body!). If we did dyno it and then play with the linkages, wouldv'e wasted the whole session! A trip to Steven Newings and a bearing place for some rod ends and many dollars swapping palms, the setup went on and made a big difference! Tomorrow I'll find out if it can be done during this week. Apparently, there are some guys in the UK with R33 N/A Skylines that are very interested in my setup and are itching to find out power figures; I think even more keen than me! Anyways, I took a pic tonight (with the shorter ignition leads) and I forgot to mention some good news...My beer guzzling, drunken karaoke, chain smoking redneck neighbours have moved out! I hope I drove them out from the noise of my 240 without the exhaust! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NZeder Posted October 6, 2008 Share Posted October 6, 2008 Looking good - can say that I have done much on mine either Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Zedman240® Posted October 6, 2008 Author Moderators Share Posted October 6, 2008 I was hoping you would've had a video on youtube by now Nzeder! I'd love to see your setup running.. Wouldv'e been great to be on unemployment benefits...all that free time in the world to work on the zed; but no cash! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NZeder Posted October 6, 2008 Share Posted October 6, 2008 I need the body out of the body shop (brothers business) so I can start to work on it, it has been there 10 years now.....and I don't have another zed to play with so I just want the body work done so I can put it back together Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NZeder Posted December 31, 2008 Share Posted December 31, 2008 Dimitri, I have just been re-reading this thread for some inspiration and noticed your post about how you changed the linkage setup after a visit to Steven Newings. Pic for reference I see you no longer have the balance joiner and you know have 3 drop arms was this recommended - I have balance joiner between all the TB's on my setup and I am going to use a cable pull directly on the TB's. I assume Steven recommendation was against this? What are others thoughts on this? I had balance joiners on my triple carb setup in my old 240z and it worked fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Zedman240® Posted January 1, 2009 Author Moderators Share Posted January 1, 2009 On both of my previous TB's setup, I did run balance joiners with no issues. When I took the zed up to Wolf for dyno tuning, we couldn't get a decent idle for some reason. Its still a tad high for my liking but I'll just leave it for the moment (1050 rpm). Not sure if my manifold has anything to do with it but I just thought 3 individual arms would be easier to set up and adjust. Plus I can get those rose joints for next to nothing ($6 each!) Oh Mike, in that pic that you have, you can see how close the fuel line is to the clutch master (where the accelerator cable runs over). Now that I lifted the engine 8mm, it touches. Spoke to Steve about that and he can modify the fuel rail to fix that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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