NZeder Posted July 19, 2008 Posted July 19, 2008 Ok all this work Zedman240 is doing is making me want to get my car to the same stage. So tonight I spend a few hours in the garage getting the TB shafts the right length for the RB26 manifold - so here are the results. Can't want to get these on the car - however that will not happen until after the engine bay is painted. Quote
Moderators Zedman240® Posted July 19, 2008 Author Moderators Posted July 19, 2008 Nzeder, yours is looking real good! was thinking of getting the "pro"series trumpets with mesh covers but thats going to have to wait. I'm doing alot of thinking of how to setup the throttle linkage along the manifold. Have two spots for the rod ends to go on some threaded rod and hope it shouldn't flex from the length. By midweek hope to get something together. Quote
NZeder Posted July 19, 2008 Posted July 19, 2008 I am going to use a cable (the linkage that I have has both an cable and leaver options - I will use the leaver option to mount the second return spring (required for cert here in NZ). I am thinking about solutions for a cold air box - one thought is to have it made of Polycarbonate (ie lexan) to show those trumpets - would be a shame to hide them away. This way I can run a pod type filter up the front - feeding into the trumpets. The question is the mounting - I guess I will cross that bridge when I get to it. Quote
NZeder Posted July 26, 2008 Posted July 26, 2008 Update on the header. I have had the standard Fujitsubo RB25DE header modified to fit for my installation. Now as these header were already modified from standard for the RB26 head I can't be sure that if this modification changed them from stock. Anyway the angle at which they left the head meant that there with chassis rail issues as in they hit the chassis rail. My panelbeater had already cut a hole in the floor and altered the chassis rail by the time I turned up to tell him I would get the header modified - well he created more work for him self as one the header was modified this was unnecessary. I just picked up a second set of these headers in standard form from our trademe.co.nz (our popular auction site) for $200 which is a bargain given all the stainless steel they are made from. Anyway pic time (there are lost more now on my website as this location http://nzeder.net/album_cat.php?cat_id=18) The finished header The clearances The modified bits And installed Quote
Moderators Zedman240® Posted July 27, 2008 Author Moderators Posted July 27, 2008 Ohhh!! can you find me another set for $200? geez! I'm just using a cast manifold for now till I can find a set of headers....that's a bargain! Quote
NZeder Posted July 27, 2008 Posted July 27, 2008 I will keep an eye out for you. Here a pic of the standard RB25DE Fujitsubo header that I got for $200 they are $2100 new (depending on yen to $$) as they are ¥165,900 then add shipping, fees etc $200 was a bargain which is why I purchased these when I spotted them. If you compare with the modified version you will see a new O2 bung as the original one is right were the TC is so this will be blocked off. You will also see the extra bits in the flange area and the tail section to change the exit under the car. Quote
yellazed Posted July 27, 2008 Posted July 27, 2008 Just curious - why didn't you weld the headers direct to the flange, without the little stubs? Would give better flows and hug the block more. Quote
NZeder Posted July 27, 2008 Posted July 27, 2008 Need the extra length to kick the header out and down - it would have been nice to do that but it just did not work out that way as the tail of the header ended 1/2 way through the floor. When I collect the other standard set I might see if these can be modified differently to put them in the same location but without the extra bits of pipe at the flange. The other issue was the first pipe as the set I had modified was already modified for the RB26 head (ie different flange) and this was already almost too short to get the lower nut on the stud. However with the standard unit it looks like there is they are longer to begin with so I might be able to modify these as I wanted to do in the first place and that was take a 5mm (at the bottom) slice/wedge off the pipes at the mounting face to get the angles the same. I will let you know once I see the standard unit - it is with a friend in the other end of the country currently. Re the hug the block - they do that already the collector of the inside pipe almost hits the block I needed to get them as close to the block as possible at this point so they would not hit the chassis rail. I guess on the plus side they do look like 432 standard header setup with the extra pipe see here Quote
Aaron Neubauer Posted August 6, 2008 Posted August 6, 2008 Just a query about your throttle bodies, what kind of injector do they take? Quote
NZeder Posted August 6, 2008 Posted August 6, 2008 Just a query about your throttle bodies, what kind of injector do they take? You have the choice when you order them as the fuel rail changes based on what injectors you require. I have both the 11mm and 14mm fuel rails but they also do a hose tail rail so that covers the lot of top feed injectors. Now given that I have the RB26 manifold I can tell you that looking at it the injectors for the RB's (well the 26 at least) is in the same place as the DCOE TB on my setup so I guess you could also use a RB fuel rail too. I have checked the spacing of the DCOE on my RB26 manifold and they are in the same place as they are on my Japanese L6 intake manifold so in this case it would be possible to use a RB fuel rail on this manifold with the DCOE TB's. Now this might be the case with all L6 intake manifolds as other might place the TB's closer together but the distance between the DCOE flanges is approx 40mm given I can't get my calipers in there with the studs in the way. Hope this helps. Quote
Moderators Zedman240® Posted August 6, 2008 Author Moderators Posted August 6, 2008 Those crazy Rocky Auto guys..... cramming RB25's with Mikuni's or throttle bodies into anything that moves!! Do a search for "Rocky Auto" on youtube....interesting.... Quote
Administrators gav240z Posted August 6, 2008 Administrators Posted August 6, 2008 That's pretty horn Evan. Quote
NZeder Posted August 6, 2008 Posted August 6, 2008 Here are lot more pics of the same car. It is a RB30 bottom end with a Rb26 head and their aim was 380ps Here are some of it at a car show outside and driving (well doing a burnout) Quote
Moderators Zedman240® Posted August 10, 2008 Author Moderators Posted August 10, 2008 Every time I see one of those Rocky Auto videos on youtube, makes me want to get out there and then and work more on the zed! Today a little was done; but pity I didn't follow any of my own advice...One thing I say is, while you are there, do as much as possible. When I had the engine on the stand, it was so easy to do the cam belt, and anything else that needed doing with the ease of access a engine stand gives you. I paused at the water pump and thought...should I or shouldn't I? I didn't and guess what...topped up with water and a nice steady stream of h2o bleeds out of the front! I thought I made progress today; set up the throttle cable, plumbed up the cooling system and was just about to hook up all the fuel lines....but now a few steps back! Oh well.... a trip to Nissan this week for a new water pump! Quote
Administrators gav240z Posted August 10, 2008 Administrators Posted August 10, 2008 Your making progress really quickly with it though. Shouldn't be too long now, I bet you can't wait. Quote
Moderators Zedman240® Posted August 18, 2008 Author Moderators Posted August 18, 2008 Over the last week or so, I've been thinking while I'm freezing my ass off in the garage during this "real" winter, if I should hand it over to the guys at AEM (Wolf people) in Bayswater to finish the wiring. One frosty morning sealed the deal! I gave them a call and with lots of luck, this weekend it should be running! I've completed some of the wiring on the inside of the car; namely all the relays for the ECU, injectors, fuel pump and thermo fan and one I forgot (coil pack). This Friday it should be on the back of a tilt tray and then after that, an exhaust system will be done. This last weekend the water pump that was supposed to be done when I had the engine on the stand was installed and with surprisingly no leaks! Maybe its the wind chill factor or my cbf's or both that made me think of getting someone else to finish it for me. Anyways, youtube video will be uploaded when I hear it run for the first time! For now, a couple of pics of how it looks now.... Quote
stevo_gj Posted August 18, 2008 Posted August 18, 2008 Looking hot! Can't wait to hear it run. We need to find a better way than youtube of sharing videos, so that we can do it in higher quality. Anyone have any ideas? www.rapidshare.com is a good way to host files and its free to download from. Quote
C.A.R. Posted August 18, 2008 Posted August 18, 2008 Looking VERY good Dimitri! Same here, can't wait to hear it run I hear what your saying about cold weather - we've been suffering through low to mid 20's the last couple of weeks. Not much fun at all........... Quote
modular9 Posted August 18, 2008 Posted August 18, 2008 Zedman240: That is beautiful. I mean REally beautiful looking. Looking forward to the vid ( actually the sound really ). Video option : vimeo.com is HD ready. The problem isnt the streaming but the initial quality of the video. But then we only want to hear it so youtube is all good. Quote
Aaron Neubauer Posted August 18, 2008 Posted August 18, 2008 Looking very schweet Zedman!! I think a vid would would be the piece of straw that breaks the donkey's back and convince me to undertake a RB series project myself. Like many others, I can't wait to hear it running! P.S. I search and I search through this thread, did you use a mounting kit Zedman? Quote
Administrators gav240z Posted August 18, 2008 Administrators Posted August 18, 2008 P.S. I search and I search through this thread, did you use a mounting kit Zedman? I think he fabricated everything. Wouldn't be a bad idea though if someone started offering a kit for RB engine conversions. Quote
NZeder Posted August 18, 2008 Posted August 18, 2008 I think he fabricated everything. Wouldn't be a bad idea though if someone started offering a kit for RB engine conversions. check page one - both myself and Zedman240 talk about CastleMaine Rod Shop mounting kit - I have modified mine (ie taken the standard CastleMaine Rod Shop mounts) to use a different isolator from the standard 240z/260z isolator. I also did not use the CastleMaine gearbox cross member instead opting for a custom unit that I made using the standard mount as the base. They are in the middle of updating their website - here it the link http://www.rodshop.com.au/index.html But if you visit the old site (on the right above the contact us button on the new site) you can see the mounting kits they do and EM81 - RB30 into 260z. The difference between a RB30 and RB25/26 is the block height they mount the same way etc. Hope this helps. Quote
Moderators Zedman240® Posted August 19, 2008 Author Moderators Posted August 19, 2008 As Nzeder stated, I bought mine from CRS. Although they did fit up, I had to modify one of them as it stretched the engine mount too forward by about 38mm. I sent it back, took them 3 days to modify and return it. Its ok now but the engine sits real low in the bay. Its hard to see it in the pics, but the sump hangs about 40mm lower than the front xmember. Also the engine and gearbox is not aligned in the bay. Its out about 15mm. I'll fix that when I have access to a hoist. I've seen others make their own mounts to fit the RB's in their zeds. Quote
Hunter Posted August 19, 2008 Posted August 19, 2008 As Nzeder stated, I bought mine from CRS. Although they did fit up, I had to modify one of them as it stretched the engine mount too forward by about 38mm. I sent it back, took them 3 days to modify and return it. Its ok now but the engine sits real low in the bay. Its hard to see it in the pics, but the sump hangs about 40mm lower than the front xmember. Also the engine and gearbox is not aligned in the bay. Its out about 15mm. I'll fix that when I have access to a hoist. I've seen others make their own mounts to fit the RB's in their zeds. Have you made CRS aware of the alignment issue? If I do a conversion like this I would like to buy the mounts locallyat CRS and have them exactly right for my purposes. Quote
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