Beehive Valve Springs - Anyone With Experience ?

[1600dave]

About to start an engine rebuild and noticed these while looking for valve springs. Anyone had any experience with them ? I've seen plenty of articles regarding the advantages of beehive springs, but none specifically for L-series. Gimmick or next big thing ? My application is race-only, undecided on cam yet but it will most likely have fairly high lift (and yes, I noticed that these springs seem to be limited at .550 lift)

 

Or if I go with the tried and true double valve springs, any suggestions on brand ? Many years ago, I used SWM supplied ones (not sure on brand), what's the current recommendation ?

 

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Performance-Beehive-valve-Spring-Ti-Retainer-kit-to-suit-the-L-Series-Nissan-6-/162254950003

Edited March 13, 2018 by 1600dave

[dat2kman]

Stew likes Crow.

Performance in Mackay had a run of crap steel, about 10 years ago, quality is better now.

HSD in Melb are quite good !

[TOO60Z]

Queenslanders can't spell beer. Do you think they are any good at making go fast bits. Forget the beehive springs as with a dual,if an outer spring fails you still have(some) control over the valve. Isky's with their taller retainers for high lift cams. Wait until you know installed height and true valve lift.

[1600dave]

The "backup" properties of dual springs had crossed my mind, didn't know if it was just my job (IT disaster recovery specialist) clouding my judgement as to the need for a DR strategy...

 

I believe Stewie sells HSD as well,, at least his website says so.

 

And yeah, cam choice first, just curious when I noticed them on ebay.

 

Actually, pulling down the old engine first to see what I've broken would be a good idea too

[RLY240]

I'm running beehive springs and titanium retainers that a mate of mine had made up. Can put you in touch if interested.

Roger

[1600dave]

If you don't mind, that would be great.

 

Just considering all options

[RLY240]

If you don't mind, that would be great.

 

Just considering all options

PM sent

[1600dave]

Thanks !

[Cozza]

Dave, I think I remember you were thinking of putting a twin cam head on the L series.

If you do go this route, please keep us updated with pics and info.

Cheers

Mick

[TOO60Z]

Why would you do that?

[d3c0y]

I have that modified RB26 exGibson head to go on an L28 if you are REALLY serious... Even comes with cams

[TOO60Z]

Sell it to juxtaposition in Panama. He is the only one i have faith in to complete such a project.

[Riceburner]

Dave, I think I remember you were thinking of putting a twin cam head on the L series.

If you do go this route, please keep us updated with pics and info.

Cheers

Mick

+1

[1600dave]

Dave, I think I remember you were thinking of putting a twin cam head on the L series.

 

 

 

Why would you do that?

 

Mainly because I'm sick of being lapped by those fancy zeds at Bathurst each November

 

KA24DE head costs virtually nothing (I have two, one cost under $100 from the wreckers, other one was free and came with an entire FWD bluebird attached), it goes on the L4 engines pretty easily as its essentially still just an evolution of the L-series, and it flows a huge amount (more than I'd ever get a 2 valve head to flow).

 

Whilst I have all the basic gear to get the twin cam head on the block, this time I'm giving the old dead L18 a freshen up as a "race" engine rather than its current state of a compromise between road and track. Car is no longer registered (or able to be easily registered) like it was last engine rebuild time. Add in the usual time / money constraints - I want to do the twin cam head properly, wife wants to go to Scotland and Norway -  and I'm going with the easier and cheaper option this time.  Who would have thought modifying a twin cam head would cost twice what a single cam does

 

Although I have changed my mind half a dozen times already, so am liable to do so again......

Edited March 15, 2018 by 1600dave

[TOO60Z]

Lose the firewall and fit 3L L series.

[Cozza]

I hope you change your mind back again ?

Looking forward to info and pics either way though Dave.

 

Many moons ago I saw a laurel with an l20a in it. It looked very similar in size to a 1600. I wonder how much work there is to get a 6 into a 1600.

[1600dave]

There was a factory version of a 180B fitted with an L20A, they extended the wheelbase by 200mm or so (all the extra length was in the engine bay) and mounted the radiator on the outside of the radiator support (ie between grille and rad support rather than on the engine side of rad support) to make it all fit. And a 180B has a bigger engine bay than a 1600.

 

I'll post pics of the build as I go, as long as nobody objects to a thread about a 4 cyl L-series. Not many active forums around now (that I've found anyway) with reasonable L-series knowledge, hence asking my q's here.

[lampy]

Go the twin cam head Dave straight up, you wont regret it.

 

I went for a drive in mine the other day after sitting in the shed for 6 months. Forgot how fast the thing is.

 

310+ degree cams and it is totally drive-able on the road. Get above 5000 and all hell breaks loose

 

Ka heads are a good thing

Edited March 24, 2018 by lampy

[260DET]

What revs does a good single cam L4 run to? Apparently the BRE 510's used to spin up to 9k+ reliably.

[lampy]

Think some of the group NC historic l16's run up to around 9500. A few of the good ones have billet crankshafts. Don't think a standard crank would last that long over 9000

[Cozza]

I’m with Lampy.

 

Do it Dave. ?

[TOO60Z]

No cast flywheels either.