lampy

I get all my tyres from the UK (www.demon-tweeks.com) Dunlop DZ03G H1 compound track tyre 225/45/17 delivered to your door is $390 each Toyo R888R track tyre 225/45/17 delivered to your door $285 each They dont list yoko A050, but can probably get them for you if requested I find it interesting and sad that the UK can supply tyres cheaper than Australia including postage

3 degrees on 30mm droop is a fair bit and most probably is causing you issues. If you have a 2 post hoist it is quite easy to do accurate bump steer measurements. With the car on the hoist, Take the front wheel off and bolt on a spare rim and preferably a flat piece of MDF/plywood/sheetmetal to the face of the rim using g clamps. Jack the front suspension to normal ride height using jack under lca. Put a long straight edge along the hoist arms and a few mm of the rim/wood sheet Jack the front suspension up and down and measure the difference in the distance from the straight edge to the wood/rim on the front/rear of the rim. You may have to remove the spring to get the bump measurements as the car will most probably rise off the hoist at some point. Compare the measurements front to rear to see the bump steer. Its a good time to make adjustments to the outer tie rod position and see the effects

What offset wheels are you running. Need to check your scrub radius is near zero to allow light steering reduced tram tracking in rutted roads. Getting you scrub radius as close to 0 allows you to run higher caster with similar steering weight You also probably need to check your bump steer. Could be significant if you have altered you lower control arm inner pivot position.

Thanks lurch. That’s what I was thinking. I believe it would have had the locktite treatment before assembly. Hopefully there is no damage on the gears. replacing the extension housing is harder than normal as it has been modified with exhaust brackets welded on and a temp sensor bung.

Hi, Im after some advise on my 71B hollinger 5 speed for my 1600 circuit car. I had noticed some gearbox oil dripping from the bottom of the car at the end of the last event and when i put the car away in the shed i came back a few days later to 2-3 liters of oil on the the floor. During the event the gearbox operated correctly and with no major unusual noises. I pulled off the gearbox mount today and found the damage as shown in the attached photos. I am away for two weeks at work and have an upcoming tarmac rallysprint just after i get back. I would like to order the necessary parts to get going as a soon as im back Has anyone seen this before. It looks to me like the dreaded 5th gear nut has come loose and the bearing has worn through the housing? I thought i would have lost 5th and reverse in this case?

3.96 stroker? how are you getting that much capacity. you will need 50mm+ throttle bodies for that size

There was a comment recently on Ozdat.com about the Dunkerton 260z returning to Japan. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=14117&start=30

Another recommendation for SPS in Dandy. From my experience the US manufacturers are very difficult to deal with and don't really want to respond to questions etc How many valves per cylinder are you using. 4?

Best to set your gun up using straight thinners in the pot and test fire at a hung up piece of cardboard. You an then do you adjustments to get good flow and an even coverage on the fan. Spluttering your mentioning sounds like a blockage. It is always good practice to strain you paint/thinners mixture before adding to the spray gun pot.

Think some of the group NC historic l16's run up to around 9500. A few of the good ones have billet crankshafts. Don't think a standard crank would last that long over 9000

Go the twin cam head Dave straight up, you wont regret it. I went for a drive in mine the other day after sitting in the shed for 6 months. Forgot how fast the thing is. 310+ degree cams and it is totally drive-able on the road. Get above 5000 and all hell breaks loose Ka heads are a good thing

RLY240 is correct. The load is taken up by the friction between the wheel face and the hub face. That is why the torque of the studs is so important. Rear end is looking good Richard. Interesting to hear how it performs

Im going to run Castrol SynTrans 75W 85 in my 71b circuit racing box Meets GL 4 spec

I queried my Dad about Tripletts Zed. Dad used to race speedway at Bunbury in those days and knew him well. He said he was sure the Zed was a showroom car from japan that had never seen the road. He is going to do some more investigating

they are still on ebay http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/LIGHT-WEIGHT-BILLET-STEEL-FLYWHEEL-DATSUN-240Z-280Z-L-ENGINE-NISSAN-/360871121602?hash=item54059852c2

Ignition advance is critical for making good power. you need 34-36 degrees in by 4000 rpm for a good l series 10 degrees initial would be too low for a modified engine. Maybe try 15. The reason why people get there dizzys regraphed is to modify the curve and get the right amount of mechanical advance in Be careful with reading plug spark plug colour. The correct method needs to be used to read them. Use new plugs if possible Run the car hard and fast eg 3000rpm to redline a few times to clear them. hold the car at the desired rpm and load point , quickly ignition off and coast to side of road. Pull plugs on side of road and check colour A dyno is the best way to do this faultfinding.

Firstly i would hesitate to change the cam timing until you have eliminated other potential problems. Maybe check Ignition timing- should be around 34-36 degrees at 4000 rpm Compression check- check each cylinder with compression guage Mixture- do a hard run in 4th gear then switch of ignition without backing off throttle, pull over and check plug colour. Shouldnt be too dark or white. Then start looking at cam timing- Retarding timing will move the power up the rpm range due to the later intake valve closing point. A stretched timing chain or planed block/cylinder head will retard the timing somewhat. I am unsure what a heavily retarded motor would do. Im sure it would not produce good power due to the fact the other valve timing events have changed. Intake opening point will be later (detrimental), Exhaust opening point (detrimental) An engine is very sensitive to the intake closing point. The other opening and closing points do matter but no where near as much as the intake closing

I have seen a few people machine a slug of alloy and interference fit it in the holes in the caliper. The face's are machined flat and the correct position holes are then drilled. These have been on all out race cars and have had no issues Be aware r33 calipers have the thread in a pressed in steel insert in the caliper whereas 240z have the thread in the strut ears

Try pulling off a spark plug lead one at a time whilst running. Check the engine rpm drops with each one and then replace and it should rise again. If the rpm does not drop when removing a plug lead that cycliner is not firing and you may have water in the electrical system or maybe have the plug leads mixed up

Unfortunately i dont have a cad file. Just knocked them up on my own lathe. I dont think you will be able to make them any thinner without sacrificing some plunge on the outer joint. Mine was about as thin as you can get because the steel cover fouls on the bolts holding the adapter to the datsun flange

See this page on OZdat for my commodore CV's for a r180. I machined up an adapter plate out of 6061 t6 alloy to suit the outer flange. 1600's are the same as a zed so might give you some ideas http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=59&t=20290&start=90 My previous 1600 came with a set of CV's with a nissan inner joint and a commodore outer to suit a r200 diff. I wonder if it was a pathfinder shaft?

Do you have any rear struts you want to sell.

You should enter the zed in a Mcrae rallysprint at the motorplex. Good fun One coming up soon on the 5th nov

I'm pretty sure nikki carbs were fitted as standard to l16 or l18. We modified one a few years ago, from vacuum secondary's to mechanical for a autocross 1600

I agree with lurch. Some very incorrect info in this thread. Why are you wanting to alter the inner pivot location? The two normal reasons are roll center adjustment and bump steer adjustment Moving the inner pivot up and out will radically change the bump steer in usually a bad way. This needs to be corrected by either moving the position of the rack or the outer tie rod height. To raise the roll center the best way is to install roll center spacers or as incorrectly termed above (bump steer spacers). These do not affect the bump steer but correct the angle of the LCA and therefore the roll center. Moving the inner pivot is not something to be taken lightly. It is a complex mod and can create a car that handles very bad if you dont correct the unwanted bump steer