Ignition Switch Removal, Repair.

[260DET]

There are two headless security screws clamping the assembly to the steering column, cutting through the clamp looks like the only way to get the assembly off, it's a bitch to get at with the dash etc in place so it looks like a 'destroy to remove' job. I do have a complete spare switch assembly so the idea would be to use it's housing. The reason for removal is to clean the switch contacts as occasionally nothing happens when turning the key.

 

Hoping there is a magic fix otherwise it's going to be a nasty hammer and chisel job, stupid security screws.

[gilltech]

I have a spare column, been wondering the same thing. To my aging eyes it actually looks as though those two screws are driven in then the heads peened over.

I was thinking to use a small cold chisel & cut a slot across the screw head for a conventional flat blade screwdriver, but haven't tried as yet.

[Cozza]

I've found that if you tap the screws with a chisel in the anticlockwise direction, you can knock them loose prettt easy. Then get a flat blade on to them to screw em out all the way.

Never found them to be all that tricky tbh.

[Enzo]

The screws are designed so the heads snap off when tightened. When I was a Locksmith I used to use a masonary nail about 3 to 4 inches long as a punch. Being thin it fitted in easier. Tap the screw anti-clockwise to remove. Once the initial clamping force is broken, the screws come out easily. Replacement screws can be bought or just hacksaw a slot in the top and reuse.

[road rider]

I've found that if you tap the screws with a chisel in the anticlockwise direction, you can knock them loose prettt easy. Then get a flat blade on to them to screw em out all the way.

Never found them to be all that tricky tbh.

 

 

A little patience is a good thing too

 

And what Cozza said above is good advice.

 

Just to add what I have done(which is very similar to the advice above)

Make sure the two Phillips head screws stay put during the process too.

I took a cheap centre punch to a bench grinder and put a nice point on it, much like a nail (you could use a nail, but it needs to be a damn big one!) 

Then you can make a indentation on one side of those headless screws with the pointy centre punch and a hammer and then continue to use the centre punch and said hammer to tap them babies loose.

 

Good luck

 

Edit: and what Enzo said is good advice too!

Edited June 15, 2017 by road rider

[260DET]

Geez blokes, great advice, thanks very much.

[Roady]

Just to add yet another way, found if you put a small drill hole in the "bolt" to get started then use a screw extractor (where the thread is reversed), you can screw it into the bolt and in turn unscrew the problem bolt... just be careful not to damage the dash with the drill. Only takes about 2 mins to remove both bolts.

[zeds4ever]

You don't need to remove the key unit to do what you intend to do . At the back of the igntn key barrel there is a white plastic unit which is secured to the barrel by means of two small phillips head screws , its a bit awkward to get to them but if you use a mirror at the rear of the key barrel it should assist you see them with a strong light . By the way from memory I think they are a sealed unit , but you can test them for continuity with a multimeter or a battery set up .

 

                                                            Regards : Alan .   

[nizm0zed]

Mine does something similar, wont crank if you turn the key too far.
I think there must be some stopper in there to prevent it going past the contacts.
Ive never pulled it apart though.

[Six_Shooter]

As zeds4ever said you can change or remove the actual switch without removing the lock cylinder assembly. I did this when I thought I had a problem with my switch, which seemed to be more in the wiring than the switch. That's what happens when you try to run a modern fuel injection system off the old wiring not designed for it... I should have known better... d-oh! Add a couple relays and the problem went away.

Edited June 16, 2017 by Six_Shooter

[zeds4ever]

What I have done to take the starter segment out of the equation is installed a press button starter switch wired directly from a spare active fuse

position at the fuse box , then from the starter button  to a relay & then wired directly to the starter motor . Apparently it is the starter section of the igntn switch that causes most of the trouble as when the starter switch is being engaged the active jumps across the internal points causing excessive heat in the internals of the switch . Always best to install a relay between starter switch & starter motor .IMO .

 

                        Regards : Alan .

 

   

[260DET]

Got the little bugger out, those headless screws were not as tight as I assumed, used a centre punch and a made up thin ended punch to do the turning. And yes, the switching part is held in by two screws and so can be removed but not opened up so I'm using the spare one. While on the job the steering lock tongue was cut off, it's just a PITA and I want to be able to turn the ignition off with the car still moving.

 

Thanks again for the tips cobbers.

 

EDIT Cutting the steering lock tongue off turned out to be a bad idea, the lock is now jammed and without destroying the whole thing it can't be accessed @!!~"''=!

Edited June 17, 2017 by 260DET

[260DET]

Anyone know how to get the key cylinder out? The trim bits are off and there is a small spring loaded latch there but moving that does not help, the cylinder moves a bit but won't come out and I can't see what's holding it in.

[260DET]

According to HybridZ there is a pin holding the cylinder in, found the pin, it's flush so can't be pulled out so I made up a nice little punch to knock it in. It went in a bit but not enough to disengage the cylinder so now I'm stuffed again. Messing around with this old junk gives me the pips when there are many better options out there, in particular I'd like to hari kari whoever designed  this bloody thing.

[260DET]

Right, all sorted so for anyone searching in the future here's the go. Drill the pin securing the lock cylinder down a few mm, just through the wall surrounding the cylinder so it's released. Be careful of a tiny spring which operates a small latch which has something to do with positioning the key, best to spot it before drilling the pin. When it comes to reassembly use a nail to make a pin or use a small locating screw in a new hole.

 

Having gone that far I decided to remove the steering wheel lock mechanism completely, do this before any reassembly. There is a 20c size metal plug opposite the locking tongue on the main body, to get it out drill the plug in half and remove it and the spring which sits against it, the tongue bits will now slide out through the hole. I'll be making up a metal disc to fit in place of the drilled out plug although there is nothing in there which needs protection. As a general precaution the main body is made of Brittania/monkey/shit metal which is soft and cracks easily so I avoided using the vice to hold it, well I did once and bent it a bit so no more.

[260DET]

Why am I wasting time on this?  Now it looks like that the locking mechanism is part of the switching arrangement and I'm thinking that Alan's advice is the go because there is no guarantee that the replacement used switch will be any better. The V8 starter solenoid may well pull more current so a heavy duty push button or a relay makes sense, it first started playing up at Bathurst last year so it has to be fixed properly.

 

For anyone who wants to stay original then use a relay even with a standard starter, these switches are a throw away item.

[260DET]

In case someone else is in a similar situation, I've ordered a panel mount heavy duty ignition switch which will probably be dash mounted. The starting circuit is rated at 25 amps which should be plenty without a relay, will see if it can be located in the stock position but that looks doubtful but if can be I'll post details. No steering lock of course which is a legal requirement?

[Cozza]

Interesting, how much does your starter motor draw? I thought it would be more than 25a.

[260DET]

It's to switch the starter solenoid which in turn switches the starter motor so 25 amps should be heaps, that's nearly as much as the usual relay's capacity. But now I'm curious as to what solenoids usually draw, I'm guessing around 10 amps max.