Which Is Best Electric Sander From Bunings?

[aircobra]

hi all,

just about to start on the body work and its been a while since i've bought sanders

these look ok and i do like the bag idea?

http://www.bunnings.com.au/ozito-125mm-sander-orbital-450w-_p6290414

http://www.bunnings.com.au/ozito-230w-random-orbital-sander_p6290233

not sure how mnay watts you need for a typical filler/undercoat cycle of work

the reason that i'm not getting the air ones like this http://www.bunnings.com.au/ryobi-airwave-air-dual-action-sander_p6210620

is that my comp. is pretty wimpy (2.5 ho direct)

just before all the paining pros you object to the ozito brand, i don;t do much body work so not planning any repeat use of for these

thanks

[PB260Z]

Hi Mate

 

Two things I think you should consider when buying a sander for panel work.

 

Dual Action sanders are far less likely to leave swirl marks in the surface.

Poor quality tools tend to deliver poorer quality results.

 

Just my two cents worth

 

Cheers

 

PB

Edited January 4, 2016 by PB260Z

[CBR Jeff]

As PB said and adding to that. Spend your money once and spend it wisely. Get a good quality one that will last.

The brand you are looking at is not likely to stand the test of time and will probably fail at the most inconvenient time.

Just my opinion.

Jeff

[chris240]

Ozito = the cheapest nastiest powertool ever made in the history of China.

[1600dave]

My favourite sander is a Rupes palm sander I was given in return for painting an MG. It would have been quite a few hundred dollars even back then. Is it "better" than the cheap Ryobi one I use more often ? Not really. I was given the Rupes over 20 years ago and its still going strong. Will the Ryobi be around in 20 years ? I doubt it.

 

Its an electric motor spinning a pad with a bit of sandpaper attached. For a one-off, grab the Ozito dual action, keep your receipt and don't complain when you have to spend another $50 in a year or two

Edited January 1, 2016 by 1600dave

[PeterAllen]

This is going to depend on how much you intend to use it.

 

If you are intending to do a total restoration and ongoing work you should consider investing in a compressor and buying air tools.

 

If you are only doing patch work, buy the cheapest and throw it away when it plays up. The bearings are the issue with sanders and they all, whatever they cost, suffer from any dust, particularly fibreglass. Save your money for car parts.

 

My 2 cents worth! 

[aircobra]

thanks for the views, only questions is the 450w or the smaller one?

and while we're at it, the nastiest, corded tool to come out of china actually the blue XU-1. its kept close to the counter at all bunings and they're actually even cheaper then  ozito, which has now gone upmarket

ps. can;t think of ANY brands of tools that are either not made ion china or at least contain chinese parts in china

i DO have an air comp, not sure there are any advantages to the air sander, other then lighter weight

[Retro Z]

I own and have used all the ones you mentioned. Id say save up and get the biggest and highest flowing compressor you can afford. The compressor will come in handy for a multitude of jobs like spraying，grinding etc.

 

For me DA air sanders are better. Less vibration and easier to handle aswell as speed control and the finished surface is much better.

 

For stripping paint or levelling bog fast i prefer the electric orbital sanders. The ozito one for me has lasted 2 years and is better than the supercheap shop series ones for similar money.

[Sirpent]

 

not sure how many watts you need for a typical filler/undercoat cycle of work

 

 

If you are talking about knocking down the filler with 36 grit on a sander all good, but machine sanding filler to feather edge and undercoat isnt recommended, hand finishing these surfaces are always the better if more laborious option as any beater worth his or her salt will tell you.

 

Sorry to rain on your parade, just speaking from experience as a beater / painter. 

 

BIG P.S.

 

I've always preferred random orbitals and this Bosch unit would be my preference, see link

 

Cheers

 

John

 

http://www.bunnings.com.au/bosch-270w-random-orbital-sander_p6200277

Edited January 2, 2016 by Sirpent

[aircobra]

i am no panel pro, was just going to sand down some sections of the car to bare metal and then after the filler primer

[MaygZ]

Be aware that:

 

the faster the disc spins the more heat it will produce = potential for warpage.

The more powerful the coarser the grit = potential for warpage

The faster and more powerful = faster to chew through metal (especially if it is tilted or run along a ridge) and the quicker the stuff up.

 

Paint stripper is messier, often more expensive but won't warp a panel nor chew a hole in a ridge or edge.

 

Sand blasting is IMO the best way to remove paint (but the operator must be used to our thin panels metal or again it can be a bad day)

[Sirpent]

Be aware that:

 

the faster the disc spins the more heat it will produce = potential for warpage.

The more powerful the coarser the grit = potential for warpage

The faster and more powerful = faster to chew through metal (especially if it is tilted or run along a ridge) and the quicker the stuff up.

 

Paint stripper is messier, often more expensive but won't warp a panel nor chew a hole in a ridge or edge.

 

Sand blasting is IMO the best way to remove paint (but the operator must be used to our thin panels metal or again it can be a bad day)

Simon Simon Simon

 

Cannot agree on you points, sorry mate.

 

A sander regardless of speed, paper grit etc etc etc will not heat a panel to the level that would cause such damage.

 

What people do tend to do as you mentioned, is either angle the machine onto an outer edge and either damage the pad, or dig canyons in the material they are working on, or, the biggest mistake, push down so hard on the machine that they clog the paper and cook the machine. A sander should always glide over the surface without undue force, the user is only there to guide it.

 

On the subject of paint stripper, there is a trick that I don't see anyone using but I will let you all in on.

 

#1, Score the paint with multiple key like scratches that penitrate the paint down as far as possible without denting the metal in the process.

#2. Always try to have the panel at a decent temp, put it out in some sunlight so it warms up.

#3. Buy some plastic drop sheets from Bunnings.

#4. Spread the paint stripper across the entire panel

#5. Spread the drop sheet across the surface covering all the stripper

#6. Let it work its magic then peel the sheet away along with the paint, done correctly you should be left with a metal clean surface

 

This works as the stripper is not exposed to air which dries it out quickly, the stripper stays wet and therefore works all the way through the paint and finally acts as an adhesive that bonds with the plastic sheet peeling away the paintwork

 

Fold the sheet up, and into a wheely bin

 

Have fun ;-)

[neRok]

Spread the drop sheet across the surface covering all the stripper

I was reading up on paint stripper the other day, and saw this same advice, however they used glad-wrap and neglected to mention the easier 'cleaning' aspect of it. I wish I had followed this advice, because I stripped the area between the radiator and grill on my 260z, and it took ages to scrape all the gunk out of the nooks and crannies.

 

For what it's worth, I purchased the 450w Ozito for paint sanding too. I figured $10 for the extra power would be worthwhile.

And for people dissing Ozito, my experience with them has been a good one. I purchased a big hammer drill which I used to remove the tiles in my kitchen. The cost to rent a hammer drill would have been comparable to the purchase price, but the bonus is I've now got a big hammer drill in the shed for next time.

Edited January 4, 2016 by neRok

[1600dave]

In a complicated shaped panel (like radiator supports, etc), just wipe the majority of the paint stripper / paint off with an old rag, followed up with another old rag thoroughly wetted with wax and grease remover. Then you can remove the last remnants of paint with sandpaper / scraper / etc.

 

Results may vary, depending on what the paint is your are removing. Original factory paint bubbles off nicely, other types of paint just turns to a messy sludge that is a nuisance to deal with.