GongZ Posted September 3, 2015 Posted September 3, 2015 The infamous 'green car' was listed on autotrader.com.au on 9 April 2015 for $30,000 (in Lithgow, NSW) http://www.autotrader.com.au/cars-for-sale/1971-DATSUN-240Z-SPORTS-JCM3683512 It then appeared on carsales.com.au in late July for $38,000 - but the price was changed to $45,000 after it was sold. http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Datsun-240Z-1971/SSE-AD-3521900/?Cr=0 It is now conveniently located at the Classic Throttle Shop, under the old (original) northern approach to the Sydney Harbour Bridge, for less than $73K (+$2,749.75 Stamp Duty). Quote
240Z_au Posted September 3, 2015 Author Posted September 3, 2015 (edited) The infamous 'green car' was listed on autotrader.com.au on 9 April 2015 for $30,000 (in Lithgow, NSW) http://www.autotrader.com.au/cars-for-sale/1971-DATSUN-240Z-SPORTS-JCM3683512 It then appeared on carsales.com.au in late July for $38,000 - but the price was changed to $45,000 after it was sold. http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Datsun-240Z-1971/SSE-AD-3521900/?Cr=0 It is now conveniently located at the Classic Throttle Shop, under the old (original) northern approach to the Sydney Harbour Bridge, for less than $73K (+$2,749.75 Stamp Duty). Good luck to them.. Its all about timing, supply and demand. I say if you can get it, and both parties happy with the outcome, then its all open for the young and old and the man with the deepest pockets and best appetite wins! Recent case of a Green yes, Green) Dino at Shannos for over $500K is a classic example. You want to buy another Dino today??..Good luck. OK, back to Z's Edited September 3, 2015 by 240Z_au Quote
GongZ Posted September 3, 2015 Posted September 3, 2015 ...Recent case of a Green yes, Green) Dino at Shannos for over $500K is a classic example. You want to buy another Dino today??..Good luck... I did notice that actually - I just read this in an email I received from Shannon's Insurance about their 'Shannons Sydney Winter Classic Auction';"The standout result of the $2 million sale was the sale of a beautifully presented and Australian-delivered 1973 Ferrari Dino 246 GT Coupe to a local enthusiast for an Australian auction record price of $522,000.This excellent result was a reflection of current world-market values of top Dino 246 GT Coupes, no doubt elevated since Ferrari recently announced plans to re-introduce the famous nameplate on a new entry-level model." Its way past my bed time - so I am not going to do any maths - but I remember seeing these in Scuderia Veloce Motors' Lindfield (or was it Roseville?) showroom in 1973 for just over $15,000 brand new. It's past my bedtime again! Back to the Zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz's for me! Quote
240Z_au Posted September 7, 2015 Author Posted September 7, 2015 OK, she's almost stripped underneath. Doing exterior tomorrow and interior Wednesday. Quote
Administrators gav240z Posted September 7, 2015 Administrators Posted September 7, 2015 So are you doing a full resto on this car or just a freshen up? Quote
GongZ Posted September 7, 2015 Posted September 7, 2015 I did a double-take when I saw that photo - it looks like you have just taken the diff out of the engine bay! Quote
240Z_au Posted September 7, 2015 Author Posted September 7, 2015 So are you doing a full resto on this car or just a freshen up? Hi. Full Restoration. The 73 was a refresh. What do you think about them?: https://www.redistrip.com.au/ I'veonly ever done soda blast before. I did a double-take when I saw that photo - it looks like you have just taken the diff out of the engine bay! Yeah, it looked kind of cool. Havent seen that type of a shot before, so here it is Quote
GongZ Posted September 7, 2015 Posted September 7, 2015 Your link to the Redi-Strip website got stuck to the text and doesn't work - here it is - https://www.redistrip.com.au/ To me there is a conundrum in the choice of body preparation techniques; No form of media blasting can get inside box sections and other inaccessible places. On the other hand, a dipping process would get into such areas, but I don't see how you would ensure that the liquid was completely drained afterwards. Quote
240Z_au Posted September 7, 2015 Author Posted September 7, 2015 (edited) It gets out by hanging the car vertically for a period of time, rotating it on rotisserie and where necessary, drilling small holes in strategic places for drainage which can then also be used to inject rust proofing material before they are plugged up. I also talked to my painter and bounced the idea of placing the car in a booth and baking it overnight at 40C+. The bath method does remove rust from inside, blasting does not, so I like the idea of that (especially on early Z). I guess I wont be driving the car in the rain regularly or washing it every week, so even if rust develops again, that would take years to show on the outside as it it neutralised by the bath system from within....Hmm...Still very undecided, but I'm leaning towards a bath due to total rust removal from in and out. Could we ever call early Z truly "rust fee"? LOL.. Edited September 7, 2015 by 240Z_au Quote
GongZ Posted September 7, 2015 Posted September 7, 2015 Well a proper bath sounds like a good idea under the circumstances that you have detailed - as long as someone can correctly point out the 'strategic places' on your 240Z. Quote
240Z_au Posted September 7, 2015 Author Posted September 7, 2015 I think that would be easy to see. Having worked on Z's for many years, some experience coupled with common-sense should prevail. Chassis rails come to mind as one of these areas, but If I hang the shell vertically for a day, all should leak out. I'm going there tomorrow to talk to the owner. Hemmings talked about two bath system which the Sydney business does not mention.. Will let you know tomorrow. "Without a doubt, the most thorough way to remove paint from a vehicle is to have the entire body dipped in a vat of dissolving chemicals; one company that's well known for this service is Redi Strip. The downside is that anything that isn't sheetmetal must be removed from the vehicle first, and if the stripped body isn't properly cleaned of the caustic chemical, it can remain in tight seams and small cavities and will harm the new paint. Dale Lodor of Auto Restoration Depot in Wauchula, Florida, has been in the restoration business for the last 36 years, and has been stripping and derusting for the past five. He dips all of his own projects in his two-tank, total-immersion stripping system and handles stripping chores for a variety of professional restorers. Half of his business, however, comes from hobbyists and do-it-yourselfers. "The good professional restoration shops and many amateurs go this route," Dale said. "You can see what you've got after the car has been dipped. It gets in every place and takes everything totally off it." The two-tank process immerses a body first in a tank that degreases and loosens all of the paint. Then, with a heated pressure water wash, all paint, grease and scale is removed. The second tank is full of an alkaline electrolytic solution through which an electric DC current is passed. The body emerges shiny, with every pit and corner rust-free. Stripping paint definitely isn't sexy, but with all of the options available there's no reason that a home restorer can't free a beautiful body from the fetters of failing paint--the first step in the making of a drop-dead gorgeous restoration." Quote
KatoKid Posted September 7, 2015 Posted September 7, 2015 I looked into dipping as well but too many people said that the problem is that you cant get rid of the alkaline solution where the panels join. Quote
GongZ Posted September 8, 2015 Posted September 8, 2015 I am a regular reader of the British magazine "Practical Classics". One of their regular advertisers is a company called Surface Processing Ltd. http://www.surfaceprocessing.co.uk/for-cars.html They advertise their body surface preparation technique of chemical stripping (dipping) followed by what is called Electrophoretic coating (usually called E-coating). Apparently e-coating is what all the major car manufacturer's use to protect new car bodies these days. E-coating seems to be popular in the UK and in the USA - but as far as I can tell - no-one does it in Australia. The only local reference I could find to it was the this topic posted in 2011 on the aussieveedubbers site - which got no response at all! http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=88127 Maybe you should ask the guys at Redi-strip why this is not available in Australia. Quote
Moderators PB260Z Posted September 8, 2015 Moderators Posted September 8, 2015 (edited) More sins of the flesh...Good news, no rust in Rails or the battery area. I particularly enjoyed the wire contraption for rear exhaust It is just amazing the "interesting" repair methods you find in old cars. We could probably justify a thread on Dodgy and Interesting previous repairs ? Edited September 8, 2015 by PB260Z Quote
240Z_au Posted September 8, 2015 Author Posted September 8, 2015 I looked into dipping as well but too many people said that the problem is that you cant get rid of the alkaline solution where the panels join. Well, Alkaline is PH Neutral and its basically water. After moving the car around, they blow torch it (and I mean, massive propane blower to dry the car out, paying special attention to joints etc.) I went there today and spoke with their sales guy, the trouble is (and this is really just my problem), I would need to be there right throughout the week long process to trust it. There are way too many important (to me) steps which I would need to be 100% sure of to feel good about the entire operation. Looks like a lot f professional restorers do use them and there is a 3 month waiting list so I'm a little bummed about that.. I am a regular reader of the British magazine "Practical Classics". One of their regular advertisers is a company called Surface Processing Ltd. http://www.surfaceprocessing.co.uk/for-cars.html They advertise their body surface preparation technique of chemical stripping (dipping) followed by what is called Electrophoretic coating (usually called E-coating). Apparently e-coating is what all the major car manufacturer's use to protect new car bodies these days. E-coating seems to be popular in the UK and in the USA - but as far as I can tell - no-one does it in Australia. The only local reference I could find to it was the this topic posted in 2011 on the aussieveedubbers site - which got no response at all! http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=88127 Maybe you should ask the guys at Redi-strip why this is not available in Australia. Redi Strip is a US patented process and they operate on a license from US. I suspect the E-coating isn't used here as our weather doesn't create enough demand. The Redi Strip guy told me that till recently (like 2-3 years ago) they had much less restoration business because most budget resto's did nit want to invest 3-4K to do this + the added need (and $$) to strip absolutely everything off the car. It is just amazing the "interesting" repair methods you find in old cars. We could probably justify a thread on Dodgy and Interesting previous repairs ? Yeah we should..I have some beauties here to make a grown man cry.. Quote
dat240z Posted September 8, 2015 Posted September 8, 2015 Very tidy car mate. Am jealous.. I wanted to grab this thing as I'm in the ACT too and was aiming for an original z to go with my hybrid z. Work got in the way for the weekend and wham bam, missed out on it:( it looks pretty clean from the pics. Found any nasties yet?? Quote
240Z_au Posted September 10, 2015 Author Posted September 10, 2015 Very tidy car mate. Am jealous.. I wanted to grab this thing as I'm in the ACT too and was aiming for an original z to go with my hybrid z. Work got in the way for the weekend and wham bam, missed out on it:( it looks pretty clean from the pics. Found any nasties yet?? Hi. Thanks, yeah I wanted an original example and with the twin cable as the 71 was my 1st car. In terms of nasties. Nothing more than I already knew when I bought the car. Engine was stuffed, gearbox shot (synchors at least), diff noisy, doglegs bogged up, entire paint very poor (you would not see this from distant pictures), but the entire car was like 100 grid rubbed and painted over (I kid you not). Rust wise, so far, we took screens out yesterday, front was 100% original underneath the seals and 100% rust free in channels which surprised even me, the back has a little rust on the bottom section, but nothing major (will show pics when I come back, in Forbes NSW now on my way to Townsville QLD). Doors look solid, but it did have some repairs before. Overall, nothing I did not expect or did not see when I bought the car and having planned to strip it all apart, I expected the worst. I could have bought something else out there, but I would have done the same thing to no matter what "original"car I've bought, because for the last 2 years or more, (and some of you would have seen my shout-outs for a decent car out there) I found nothing for sale that I would have classified as a properly restored car (to my very personal standard). I had PM's from owners and businesses out there that claimed to have "the one", but seriously, all I saw was disappointment, after disappointment...and the $$$!! LOL. So, the aim was to buy 71 or earlier (getting tougher) and with all original bits on the car and do a nut and bolt restoration. That is the only way I feel I can get what I really want. As many of you would know, unless you build it, it ain't there....and if I cant pull it off, I can only blame myself. Frankly another one with RB (like yours) would be just ideal, but I'm struggling with garage space ATM..Something I'm trying to resolve without selling the house ;-) Quote
Moderators PB260Z Posted September 10, 2015 Moderators Posted September 10, 2015 but I'm struggling with garage space ATM..Something I'm trying to resolve without selling the house ;-) Start digging. gav240z and George 2 Quote
Administrators gav240z Posted September 10, 2015 Administrators Posted September 10, 2015 I could have bought something else out there, but I would have done the same thing to no matter what "original"car I've bought, because for the last 2 years or more, (and some of you would have seen my shout-outs for a decent car out there) I found nothing for sale that I would have classified as a properly restored car (to my very personal standard). I had PM's from owners and businesses out there that claimed to have "the one", but seriously, all I saw was disappointment, after disappointment...and the $$$!! LOL. So, the aim was to buy 71 or earlier (getting tougher) and with all original bits on the car and do a nut and bolt restoration. That is the only way I feel I can get what I really want. As many of you would know, unless you build it, it ain't there....and if I cant pull it off, I can only blame myself. I'm with you on that, I think you did the right thing. Buy the best original car you can and work from there. It will always be less headache that way, and the few little things you've found are normal for a car of this age. Something that has become incredibly obvious to me from the early girl bingo thread is just how "few" early 240z's are a.) Original complete with matching motor and b.) How few are actually in good shape, most are projects in need of a lot of love. You can literally count with 2 hands how many 'good' early 240z's are out there in terms of originals non modified period correct cars. The correctly restored cars have had a lot of time and effort put into them and the owners of said vehicles generally don't want to sell unless they have to. Hence looking for the impossible dream for so long . In terms of your storage issue, I'm looking at buying a warehouse to live in and convert. > Of course Peter's idea of digging under the house is a good solution also. Quote
Moderators PB260Z Posted September 10, 2015 Moderators Posted September 10, 2015 In terms of your storage issue, I'm looking at buying a warehouse to live in and convert. Of course Peter's idea of digging under the house is a good solution also.Buying and converting a wharehouse would be the ideal, but doesn't really fit with the family scene. Digging out under the house, we purchased the house with this in mind and it took 12 months to find a suitable property. Below is before and after shots of tne street view. It wasn't a cheap exercise but I am very happy with the result. George 1 Quote
240Z_au Posted September 14, 2015 Author Posted September 14, 2015 ^^ Awesome setup^^ Unfortunately for me, I don't have an elevated site.. Just got back from Townsville, did 5,550 or so km's from Sydney to Melbourne to Townsville and now back to Sydney for my daughters birthday..Awesome trip (as always is the case in the country)..This is what I saw on the way...and later when I got back today..My 240 is well and truly in pieces now Quote
Administrators gav240z Posted September 14, 2015 Administrators Posted September 14, 2015 That field photo is awesome, I could just imagine a vintage S30z sitting in the middle of it. Would be a great photo. Quote
240Z_au Posted September 15, 2015 Author Posted September 15, 2015 (edited) Thanks Gav. It was an amazing sight..I can picture what you suggested, pitty I didn't have my Z there for the pic, I would have definitively made the effort. OK, so here is my Z now. No major surprises, everything actually looks very well preserved including lots of rust proofing in the doors and other strategic to S30 areas. Its a good base, I'm happy. EDIT..Only surprise are the wosp nests ..Under both guards. Edited September 15, 2015 by 240Z_au Quote
KatoKid Posted September 15, 2015 Posted September 15, 2015 From the photos I would say that's one of the best condition original cars I've seen.......very well done! Just a little lime green with envy. Quote
240Z_au Posted September 15, 2015 Author Posted September 15, 2015 (edited) Hey, thanks a lot!..I just had a look at your build thread and I can see why you feel this way. You've had a bad start there, but your Z is looking very nice now. I want that engine in my E24 Shark. Recently supercharged 2 x E46 M3's, so I would absolutely recommend the set-up if you want to go down the forced induction route. That six, is the best engine BMW ever made and I believe I'm not the only one to say this over the last 13 years or so. Should fly!. Edited September 16, 2015 by 240Z_au Quote
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