Administrators gav240z Posted December 25, 2014 Administrators Posted December 25, 2014 Hi guys, So I did a quick search and only found this thread. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,4291.0.html which sadly has broken image references on the second page. My plan is to go to Clarke Rubber and buy some new seat foam. As seen here: http://www.australianjavelins.com/technical/seat_repair/seat_repair.htm and possibly cut to the shape I need based on the original foam template. These are the covers I have. I guess I'm looking for info on how to go about restoring the seats, as in what tools are helpful to have, any tips and tricks for restoring the foam, springs, seats bases etc..? I'll be sure to post photos of how I go about it once done so that others can use it as a future reference. Surely someone here has done it already though so any tips would be appreciated. Quote
PeterAllen Posted December 25, 2014 Posted December 25, 2014 ... My plan is to go to Clarke Rubber... I visited my local Clark Rubber store (Caringbah) on the 23rd to buy some vacuum hose and the store was shut. It was fully stocked but a note on the door said "administrators appointed". Note sure if it's the whole chain. Quote
munters Posted December 25, 2014 Posted December 25, 2014 I bought this one and it fits good. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/SIC102/40-2691 The only hard part is the top of the seat (end of the head-rest) to clip it on there you need some handforce but it goes quite easy over all. Quote
oldmates260z Posted December 25, 2014 Posted December 25, 2014 Here is link for when I started the re-trim seat project: http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,14548.15.html Linton has experience in this process and what is needed. I have decided to get a professional upholster to do mine - new foam and fit the covers - but have yet to have the time to find one in Brisbane (if anyone knows one?) Quote
reverendzed Posted December 25, 2014 Posted December 25, 2014 Hey Gav - it's tedious but pretty simple - I've done 3 sets of seats now and they all came up excellent. I'll try and dig through my build thread as I did the whole clark rubber rebuild myself. I remember that after Id cur and glued and crafted some new foam I then laid it over with a 3ml high density foam. If you notice, often from the factory, when you pull the back cover off there was plastic around the foam of the headpiece this is simply to assist in getting the cover on so that it doesn't bunch up. I wrapped that part in glad wrap and when I pulled the new skin down tight the head piece of the seat slipped into place firmly. I'll post when I find my build. Rev Quote
reverendzed Posted December 26, 2014 Posted December 26, 2014 (edited) Here's a link to when I did my seats Gav. hope it may help. Edited June 26, 2019 by gav240z updated link Quote
MikeZ Posted December 21, 2017 Posted December 21, 2017 Hey all, digging up an old thead to avoid starting yet another seat thread. Has anyone had to add additional foam to the top of the bolsters as they taper out into the headrest to even out creases/excess leather? I did mine today and reused the original foams as they were in pretty good condition. I realise there are a few companies making these but hoping someone has solved a similar issue. These were from Interior Innovations in the states. I'll post a picture... Quote
MikeZ Posted December 21, 2017 Posted December 21, 2017 (edited) So I was about to let this slide but I might have a go at improving it. I haven't reassembled the seats yet, brackets are still drying. Worth noting too, my seat back uprights consists of jute and a bit of foam around the bolsters which I'm guessing was always standard with only aftermarket providing full foams? I've started asking around about upright foams only but hope to avoid buying any. Edited December 21, 2017 by Mike260 Quote
gilltech Posted December 21, 2017 Posted December 21, 2017 (edited) The old style foams used jute (sacking material) glued to the foam to provide some strengthening where rubbing against the springs. Modern foam is no doubt a better formula. The seat base foam has usually started to collapse and disintegrate after some 40+ yrs, and most foam would have shrunk back somewhat due to environmental conditions and bound up inside tensioned seat covers. If new foam is not practical or economic then all one can do is apply a fresh layer of thin foam (as discussed in the old thread) to build the old ones up again. Especially on either side of the bum bolster to give it more shape. Most repro seat covers seem to come with a thin layer of foam already glued to their insides for that reason, but a given seat may need more help to regain it's shape. IMO your seat looks well short of adequate tension overall and needs the centre sections pulled in tighter; the original Zed seats are quite thin, described in one car review I read as being like egg shells. Edited December 21, 2017 by gilltech MikeZ 1 Quote
MikeZ Posted December 22, 2017 Posted December 22, 2017 The old style foams used jute (sacking material) glued to the foam to provide some strengthening where rubbing against the springs. Modern foam is no doubt a better formula. The seat base foam has usually started to collapse and disintegrate after some 40+ yrs, and most foam would have shrunk back somewhat due to environmental conditions and bound up inside tensioned seat covers. If new foam is not practical or economic then all one can do is apply a fresh layer of thin foam (as discussed in the old thread) to build the old ones up again. Especially on either side of the bum bolster to give it more shape. Most repro seat covers seem to come with a thin layer of foam already glued to their insides for that reason, but a given seat may need more help to regain it's shape. IMO your seat looks well short of adequate tension overall and needs the centre sections pulled in tighter; the original Zed seats are quite thin, described in one car review I read as being like egg shells. Thanks Gilltech, I think I'll have a shot with some thin foam first. In your opinion where would you want to be adding foam to increase the tension in the centre sections? If the results aren't to my liking I'll order some foams eventually I think. Quote
AndBir Posted December 22, 2017 Posted December 22, 2017 Maybe some extra foam on the (upper) sides of the seat area - hard to say from your photo. The pic below shows my 260Z seat foam with and without the new seat cover on it. As Gilltech mentioned the new seat cover does have some foam on the underside of the seat area and this may help keep this area of the seat crease free. MikeZ 1 Quote
MikeZ Posted December 22, 2017 Posted December 22, 2017 That's what I was thinking but this is uncharted territory for me. I've got some 12mm soft open cell foam, I'll try a bit on the bolsters tomorrow. My seat cushion looked in similar shape and I saw some clues that indicate the drivers one has already been replaced once. I'm pretty happy with these to be honest, it's mostly the seat backs that bother me a bit. Quote
MikeZ Posted December 23, 2017 Posted December 23, 2017 Ok so I've had some success with the 12mm foam today and some 1/2" dynaliner which is a firm closed cell adhesive foam to build up the bolster. Here's some comparison shots with only one done. Just a couple of tiny creases I'm the headrest now that I'll try to sort out on the second one. I've taken step by step pictures and could do a build thread if anyone thinks it might be worthwhile? Cheers, Mike Quote
gilltech Posted December 23, 2017 Posted December 23, 2017 When I've installed new seat covers I've always laid the covers out in the sun first to warm and soften them. And a domestic hairdryer on gentle heat can be useful to work out wrinkles. I think it's mentioned above that a plastic bag over the headrest portion of a highback seat is a useful trick to get the cover to slip on and slide down easier. IMO these repro covers do look a bit more plush than the originals ever were. MikeZ 1 Quote
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