George Posted August 25, 2015 Author Posted August 25, 2015 Missed out on this one only to find out the buyer pulled out. Happy days. Here is my assistant Walter inspecting the demisters. He checked them with a multimeter, was satisfied with the connections and proceeded to eat a feather stuck to the styrofoam. Quote
Moderators PB260Z Posted August 25, 2015 Moderators Posted August 25, 2015 (edited) Missed out on this one only to find out the buyer pulled out. Happy days.Now that is a great bit of luck. Just reinforces the old saying "when it's meant to be, it will be" PS Walter looks a lot like our resident feline "Patch" Edited August 25, 2015 by PB260Z Quote
GongZ Posted August 25, 2015 Posted August 25, 2015 It looks more like Walter is trying to make some sort of connection with the Pink Panther ! Quote
acf321 Posted August 25, 2015 Posted August 25, 2015 I know a bloke that spent $25,000 on just the body alone. We keep the wives in the dark. Sshhhhh! I know a bloke that spend $150K restoring a 240Z! Quote
acf321 Posted August 25, 2015 Posted August 25, 2015 Hey George, that is ONE NICE piece of Glass.. Glad puss-puss is loving it too!! Cheers Adam George 1 Quote
Administrators gav240z Posted August 25, 2015 Administrators Posted August 25, 2015 Quite rare to get the defroster glass here in Australia. Don't think we ever got them in our market? But I do love the look. Quote
d3c0y Posted August 26, 2015 Posted August 26, 2015 I know a bloke that spend $150K restoring a 240Z! The scary thing is it's not even that hard to do... Quote
PZG302 Posted August 26, 2015 Posted August 26, 2015 Checque book resto's are expensive, for me $80k over 15 years for the chugger, and that is at a bit cheaper as I said to do it as a fill in job when the shop is quiet, shop isn't quiet much...... I still have to get paint thrown at it, and the motor finished, at least then it is put the interior in and it's done as I have all the bits ready to go. Quote
George Posted August 29, 2015 Author Posted August 29, 2015 I might have to revise the estimated finish date from 2020 to some time in 2025... this piston took me 2 hours to get out! The rubber seal swelled over the years and didn't want to get past a certain point in the chamber. When I finally got it out, the neighbours knew about it. gav240z 1 Quote
Riceburner Posted August 29, 2015 Posted August 29, 2015 We all know that feeling George Is that a 3/4 master cylinder unboosted, Do you know where to find rebuild kits for these? Quote
George Posted August 29, 2015 Author Posted August 29, 2015 I haven't inspected everything properly but it looks like I can get away with just the rebuild kit like this: http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=351231890771&globalID=EBAY-AU Courtesy Nissan have them as well for a bit less and probably with the correct bleed valve caps and two small copper washers. Quote
Riceburner Posted August 29, 2015 Posted August 29, 2015 Thanks. Any words of wisdom or special service tools required, besides swear jar? Ha Quote
George Posted August 29, 2015 Author Posted August 29, 2015 If you're servicing a recently used master cylinder then the piston should just slide out as soon as you remove the circlip holding it in. Mine had been sitting for over a decade and was well seized up. I first drenched it in some home-made penetrant from both ends and then tried to loosen the piston by hammering it in further. At this stage I panicked because I made the problem worse as it wouldn't return. After putting some coins in the swear jar I lightly sanded the chamber with 600 grit near the top where there was a lot of crud. I then plugged up all of the holes as best as I could (spare bolts etc) and started blowing compressed air in the first chamber through one hole left unplugged. The piston loosened eventually after repeatedly punching it in and blowing it out and almost came out. There are two 9mm bolts that hold the primary and secondary pistons so remove those after you get the piston moving and it should come out. Mine still hadn't at this stage though but it was poking out so vice grips came to the rescue! I had to repeat the process with plugging holes and blowing air for the second chamber as that half was stuck as well. A grease gun might work instead of compressed air but that would be a lot messier... Quote
Moderators PB260Z Posted August 29, 2015 Moderators Posted August 29, 2015 Gidday I have heard of people putting grease nipples were the brake lines go and pushing the piston assembly out that way. Words of wisdom? - probably stating the obvious but. 1. Pay very partcular attention to the orientation of the seals. 2. Have an impeccably clean work area during reassembly. 3. If you have an doubts, any at all, get an expert on the case. Cheers PB Quote
George Posted August 30, 2015 Author Posted August 30, 2015 I checked the condition of the brake master piston and it looks usable but it seems my hand has been forced to purchase a whole piston assembly as the leading rubber seal was too far gone and is not a part of the kit I linked above. I might be able to find it separately but I don't like my chances. It's part No. 46078-10611 Tackled the clutch master today. It came apart a lot easier despite it being in a lot worse condition as there are less air holes than the brake master. The slave clutch however looks shot (chamber rust) so that will need to be replaced. Oh, I also sandblasted the calipers today and they came up ok. Quote
260DET Posted August 30, 2015 Posted August 30, 2015 Like your posts, can look at them and read the paper as well. That's value andyk_79 1 Quote
Administrators gav240z Posted August 30, 2015 Administrators Posted August 30, 2015 Brake calipers look awesome, but are you meant to split them in half? I know with my FD RX-7 calipers the repair manual says not to split them in half. Is there a gasket in between them? Quote
George Posted August 30, 2015 Author Posted August 30, 2015 Like your posts, can look at them and read the paper as well. That's value Sports, Auto, Travel, Arts, Real Estate...? Let me know what you prefer and I'll take care of it. Brake calipers look awesome, but are you meant to split them in half? I know with my FD RX-7 calipers the repair manual says not to split them in half. Is there a gasket in between them?I don't see why you can't split them Gav...? There are gaskets which come with the rebuild kit and I figure as long as the contact surface is flat and the bolts are torqued right there shouldn't be an issue putting them back together. They can always go to a mechanic if I have issues. I needed to split them to get to the gunk/rust at the tip of the cylinder chambers and to clear the fluid chambers properly. Everything I've seen has been well blocked/seized/rusted and I feel I need to inspect every part thoroughly before using it for safety's sake but also to satisfy my curiosity. If it can come apart it is. Quote
George Posted September 1, 2015 Author Posted September 1, 2015 This is probably the best indication that I have 'issues'. I took apart the inspection light and plated everything, including the components inside the switch. Please don't judge... Does anyone know what the crab-like stamp means? I've named him Carlos. scott 1 Quote
Administrators gav240z Posted September 1, 2015 Administrators Posted September 1, 2015 Looks good, did you redo the wiring? I might have a solution for the yellowed switch. But maybe that is taking it too far? Quote
Moderators PB260Z Posted September 1, 2015 Moderators Posted September 1, 2015 Nice work on the inspection light. Issues ? Nah, attention to detail is a good thing. PB Quote
GongZ Posted September 1, 2015 Posted September 1, 2015 You should call him Mr Carlos Niles... George 1 Quote
George Posted September 1, 2015 Author Posted September 1, 2015 Good one Ian. I can now sleep easy. Looks good, did you redo the wiring? I might have a solution for the yellowed switch. But maybe that is taking it too far? Wiring is original, just cleaned up. Keen to hear solution for switch as I'm sure it will work on other parts. I have a few that are yellow. Quote
Administrators gav240z Posted September 1, 2015 Administrators Posted September 1, 2015 It is called retr0bright I've bought all the components but with winter I haven't tried it yet because I wanted to make sure I had enough UV light to activate it. Will post about it once I've tried it. George 1 Quote
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