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Posted

Hit me up with the details on the antenna Gav, I'm interested pending condition.

 

Love the clocks! Don't want to know how much you paid... :P

Posted

432-R rear wing.

IMG_20141021_221306.jpg

 

Early ones have these vertical ribs in them, they later deleted this from the design as it would hold rain water and when the boot was opened would fall into the car. But I like the design and I don't think I'll be in a rush in the rain to open the boot.

 

In Datsun Grey (offered up to the car).

IMG_20140923_182403.jpg

 

Gav,

Can you pop off a couple of photos of the underside of that 432-R type rear spoiler for me? I'm interested to see the construction method and the fixings.

 

I've got three of them, and I think just one is a period-correct original, judging by the construction method, material and fixings. There were umpteen makers of (cheaper than OEM) replicas in Japan in period, and even more in later years. It's interesting to see the differences.

 

Trouble with the proper - 45 year old - originals is that they seem to suffer badly from warping in the sun. I've had a go at trying to mitigate that for the one I'm putting on the 432-R replica project car, but it's difficult and I HATE working with FRP. I'd probably be better off with a later replica to be honest... 

Posted

Also love the clocks Gav, go on...fess up, how much??. Co-incedentally I found & ordered a calendar clock for my "late-girl" 260z last week. Much more affordable than those two knob jobs! Must learn how to search the Japanese sites.

 

RC2-web.jpg

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Posted

Also love the clocks Gav, go on...fess up, how much??. Co-incedentally I found & ordered a calendar clock for my "late-girl" 260z last week. Much more affordable than those two knob jobs! Must learn how to search the Japanese sites.

 

RE: Rally Clock Part No. 27385-E4100

 

I won't give away the prices I paid here, what I will do though is give you a bit of reading to do.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/zcar-ebay/11558-rally-clock-sale-ebay.html (this was 2004 over 10 years ago!)

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/open-s30-z-discussions/42845-pricing-240z-rally-clock-w-fully-functioning-oscillator.html

 

In particular read Alan's reply #26 in the second link to give you an idea. I didn't quite pay that much but by the time it's been restored correctly who knows what total it will be? I don't really mind though because I intend to sell 1 and I won't sell it for anything less than I think it's worth. What I do know is that prices are not coming down anytime soon.

 

See also this thread by Kats for some cool info on the clock amongst other things.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/open-s30-z-discussions/25575-datsun-240z-vs-fairlady-z432.html

clock-instructions-details-kats.jpg

 

Please note that Kats is on a whole different level to me in terms of obsession, I mean I love he attention to detail but I think I get depressed that I just don't have the resources to build a car to that level. At least not yet anyway.

 

I'm glad to see you got the correct clock for your 260z, I think it's a cool detail and a good upgrade because nearly ever Z hasn't got a working clock in it anyway.

 

What intrigues me most about these parts is that to program a clock for a modern cell phone is a trivial matter, it wouldn't take long to do and could certainly be customised in a myriad of ways. As technology has progressed so far I find it fascinating that someone engineered a time piece like this with stop watch ability and all the logic was contained in a separate oscillator box. All mechanically controlled. Working in IT it is sometimes easy to forget how far things have come and with computers how easy it is to build something that could function like this. However it's far harder to build a mechanical device to do the same. At least not until 3D printing perhaps comes further along, but then will it really be as special?

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Posted

Gav,

Can you pop off a couple of photos of the underside of that 432-R type rear spoiler for me? I'm interested to see the construction method and the fixings.

 

I've got three of them, and I think just one is a period-correct original, judging by the construction method, material and fixings. There were umpteen makers of (cheaper than OEM) replicas in Japan in period, and even more in later years. It's interesting to see the differences.

 

Trouble with the proper - 45 year old - originals is that they seem to suffer badly from warping in the sun. I've had a go at trying to mitigate that for the one I'm putting on the 432-R replica project car, but it's difficult and I HATE working with FRP. I'd probably be better off with a later replica to be honest... 

 

Hi Alan,

So in the photos are 2 different ones, the grey coloured 1 I ended up selling to another member - although it was a really great piece and I kinda wanted to keep it. I tried to see if I had any photos of the underside but couldn't find them. It did have a couple of straight sections on the bottom of it for what I presume is the mounting method / allowing you to attach screws at the outer edge of the hatch.

 

This other version in white doesn't appear to have those same sections. So the fixing method would probably work best with some kind of adhesive like sikaflex.

 

IMG_20141021_221331.jpg

 

I saved these photos from a Yahoo! Auctions a little while ago.

mwbk11062025-img600x450-1412756089du44f05386.jpg

 

mwbk11062025-img600x450-1412756089jdedfr5386.jpg

 

mwbk11062025-img600x450-1412756089zdlfrp5386.jpg

I don't think it's the OEM version though, I have seen others where all 4 screws are lined up on the same axis underneath.

 

Are the OEM ones made of polyurethane or FRP?

Posted

Thanks for the photos, Gav. I'm always interested to see all the different versions.

 

The OEM ( Kotobuki-made ) versions were made from FRP but with woven cloth ( roving ) rather than chopped strand. I've actually seen several versions of what were supposed to be OEM ones and I believe they changed the design a few times during production.

 

There are captive threaded studs in them: One either side of the central cut-out for the tailgate lock/pushbutton about mid-way along the width of the tailgate, and then two sets of two on the outer edges. There's a factory template for the hole drilling. The bottom ( mating ) edge was closed, so the spoiler was roughly triangular in section.

 

It's always bugged me when well-meaning people push the cars using the spoilers. I find myself shouting at them... Probably need an aircraft-like 'NO PUSH' stencil on the back. There's not really that much holding them on, so they are vulnerable to the forces of the well-meaning pit pusher...

 

I wouldn't recommend Sikkaflex or the like unless it was combined with nuts & bolts. There are OEM access holes in the lower closing panel of the tailgate precisely for the rear spoiler attachment nuts to be tightened through (another example - like the factory four-point cage mounts - of Nissan engineering the car to suit the Sports Option parts that were available for them in Japan ). Just remove the rubber bungs and hey-presto. The outers are outside access. I recommend you engineer some captive studs in the spoiler for the strongest and safest attachment. 

Posted

Wow & Wow........., This thread has made my last 3 hours at work bearable Gav. ive knoticed that the safari brown :P seems to be the flavour of the month of late here on the forums.... making me think if i should paint my 260 that colour as it grows on you after awhile :)

 

i seet that the tafe courses are paying off, only problem is once people know you can do it, they'll be lining up asking for help or you to do the job for them lol

 

 

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Posted

i seet that the tafe courses are paying off, only problem is once people know you can do it, they'll be lining up asking for help or you to do the job for them lol

 

That's only a bad thing if you aren't interested in doing that sort of work. I have been thinking of a career change for a while now and this course is my way of dipping my toes in and seeing how I like it. The only problem is I feel like I'm learning very slowly (happens when you have a full time job I suppose) and next year Tafe courses may go up substantially in price - at least there is rumors floating about.

 

I have had help from the teacher though when I've made a few mistakes and I do work quite slowly since it's my first time doing this stuff but doing it full time as a business would have it's own issues and challenges and if I make a mistake on my own car - well it's my own car not a customers. So who knows maybe I'll moonlight as an S30z resto nut when my own projects are done?

 

But I'm trying to enjoy the process as much as the end result at this stage. Hopefully the end result will act as a resume or proof of the quality of work :).

  • Moderators
Posted

But I'm trying to enjoy the process as much as the end result at this stage. Hopefully the end result will act as a resume or proof of the quality of work :).

 

Yes the end result will definately serve as a resume, but truthfuly your earlier comment "I'm trying to enjoy the process as much as the end result at this stage" is what it is all about.

 

Cheers

 

PB

  • 3 weeks later...
  • Administrators
Posted

So thought I'd share these photos of the 'Rally Clock' for those interested. This is why I outsourced this work. Sometimes you just have to accept someone else is the expert :).

 

2014-11-17.jpg

2014-11-17.jpg

2014-11-17.jpg

2014-11-17.jpg

2014-11-17.jpg

2014-11-17.jpg

 

Ron sent these photos when he received the clock, he said the clock wasn't working because of the incorrect gear used, the oscillator box works but was running slow and the photos above describe it's other problems. Overall it will cost a bit more to fix than originally expected. This is due to the butchery of the previous owner. I'm confident Ron can correct it though.

 

With any luck the second clock is in better shape to begin with and according to the tracker service just arrived (to Ron) so will find out soon enough.

 

I'll be sure to post 'after' photos also.

 

Posted

Very interested in photos like these Gav. Thanks for sharing.

 

I dabble in horology and after a couple of years I still consider myself a total noob. Clocks are a lot easier to work on than watches but even so, it's best left to experts when it's a precious item and I'm sure despite the high price you'll pay the results will be worth it.

 

I'm currently working on my clocks and have 1 running accurately, another in pieces and considering what to do with a third one. I've seen some of the quartz conversions which is tempting...

Posted

Ever since I have owned my 260 (about 13 years) the clock has never worked and was only correct twice a day! Recently I pulled the dash out to be re skinned and whilst it was away I took the back off the clock and blew out some dust and gave the workings a light spray with a spray similar to WD40.  After putting the dash back in I was sitting in the car one day and heard this ticking sound and realised the clock had started to work again!!  The only problem now is that it is going fast.  I think it is making up for lost time:)

  • 2 weeks later...
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Posted

Minor update, got an original Hitachi Radio from Dimitri today at the BBQ.

 

Hitachi Car Radio

Model TM-1081ZB(S)

 

IMG_20141129_220905.jpg

 

 

IMG_20141129_220913.jpg

 

Original wiring and loom.

IMG_20141129_220918.jpg

 

Free bag of drugs :P (no just a spare fuse).

IMG_20141129_220945.jpg

 

I'll need to find the antenna switch and a face plate - hopefully someone reproduces them soon.

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Posted

Gav I have a antenna switch if you are interested.

 

I'll send a PM.

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Posted

So I was gonna wait... but then I decided I couldn't so I had to share these photos.  ;D

 

1-back.jpg

2-back.jpg

1%2B%26%2B2-back.jpg

2-front.jpg

1-front.jpg

1%262-front.jpg

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Posted

Wow, amazing work, me like a lot  :)

 

Yeah it's pretty amazing, I have the calendar clock with him also.

http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,15147.0.html

 

He told me it actually works when he plugged it in, both of us were surprised but that's good news as it means internally it's probably in good shape, just externally it's in need of love.

  • 1 month later...
  • Administrators
Posted

So... I may be jumping the gun a little here. But I may have found at least 1 early fender mirror.

rtysk187-img600x450-1422276363pj0oxm2523
rtysk187-img600x450-1422276363njs1et2523
rtysk187-img600x450-1422276363im9pya2523

There was actually 3 of them on Yahoo! Auctions recently, but only for left hand side (all 3). 2 of them had the square mirror and 1 had a round mirror (but the stalk looks the same).

I won 1 square mirror and 1 round mirror. I missed out on the other square mirror due to being outbid.  :

These may have been used on a 1969 Bluebird DX (AKA 510).

Here is the round version for reference.
rtysk187-img600x450-1422276057qym2v84906
Not sure what this box indicates? Non OEM part?
rtysk187-img600x450-1422276057oi4ogy4906
rtysk187-img600x450-1422276057ersdix4906

But if you look here:
http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,14248.msg156522.html#msg156522

You can see I found a square mirror (which didn't have any provisions for the fender loaded spring set up). So I can only assume it wasn't a fender mirror. But it could make a good donor for it's square mirror onto the stalk of the round fender mirror? Has anyone ever removed the mirror from the stalk without damaging the glass? If so how did you do it?

Example of AU market mirrors. (HS30 00404 pictured below)
240z-square-fender-mirrors.jpg

More reference photos in this thread.
http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,13234.msg152638.html#msg152638

Once I've got these mirrors in person I'll be able to compare and confirm if they are the same. I have to say this is probably the hardest item to find so far. I actually plan to run the JDM bullet style mirrors most of the time, but at a car show or for a press shot or whatever I'd prefer to fit OEM hubcaps and the AU market fender mirrors.
 

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Administrators
Posted

So received the mirrors today (both left hand side) and they look basically the same apart from the mirror shape itself (the circular 1). My question is has anyone ever removed the glass part from the stalk without damaging the glass?

 

Looking at the photos of the mystery mirror I bought a while ago, I believe it could be the same stalk angle as the fender mirror I've got, but for the right hand side, lucky!

http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,14248.msg156522.html#msg156522

 

IMG_20140818_183301.jpg

 

But it's missing the fender assembly spring etc.. That's ok because out of all these mirrors I think I can make a matching pair. Just want to see if I can remove the mirror without cracking the glass.

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