RestoZ

One of our members in the WA Z Register has supplied a rather nice 240Z for a local music artist to use in a music video. The track is called "Timeless", great choice of car to make the timeless statement. Check it out and enjoy. https://youtu.be/UwstE7P6Gas?si=6C6soHIKRU_7KrSf

Did a very similar exercise on my sunroof with some excellent advice from Locky. Didn't want to weld in place due to the possibility of heat expansion, so glued some supports around the internals of the opening and glued the old solid sunroof into the opening using Sikapower 4720. This is a 2 part product which does not move once it has set. Used a U-POL D Fine Metallic Polyester Filler Paste to build up the major gaps between the roof and the old sunroof. Then a couple of coverings of Rage Gold over the entire area and any other areas where there were imperfections. Lots (and lots) of sanding/filling/sanding to maintain the contours of the roof and finally got a finish I was comfortable with. Then onto priming and painting. Note: this was the first stage of filling/sanding. Didn't take final photo of this process, but the filled and sanded area was a bit bigger. The entire structure has not moved, is as solid as a rock, there is no cracking and the roof, with lining on the inside, has none of that tinny sound when you tap on it. Very pleased with the outcome, so thanks again Locky for the guidance.

Hi Lachlan I used the reference below to get started: https://tecb.eu/onewebmedia/Tuning_SU_Carbs.pdf - Section III Tuning Multiple Carburetters Also a really good section on tuning in this: https://www.amazon.com.au/Carburettor-High-Performance-Manual/dp/1787111687 The pdf above is a good starting point, but I found the following things, which were not necessarily in the instructions, but were covered in the second manual, critical to getting things to work: 1. Fuel levels in each bowl must be at the same height. Let them fill up, take the top off and physically measure the level. I used an electronic vernier calliper to measure this accurately. 2. Height of jet below the bridge for both carbs must be the same. Again, measure with the callipers at step 17. 3. Each carby has to be adjusted individually, so critical to slacken both the clamping bolts as per step 19.What you do on one carb, adjustment wise, you have to duplicate on the other. 4. You might be able to adjust the suction using the pipe as in step 20, but you are better off getting one of these: https://www.weberperformance.com.au/product_info.php?products_id=7 which you can get off eBay as well. Good luck. It 's easy once you've done it and got it right, but getting there can be a challenge. Paul

Update: Managed to source one through Rob at the Z Factory.

Wanting to source one of the chrome top corner pieces on the rear hatch of a 260 2+2. I think the 2 seater would be the same. Let me know if you have one you want to get rid of. Sorry image is on its side, but the car is on all 4 wheels. Almost there !!!

Legend. Thanks Locky.

Sorry guys I lied. Have found a couple more bits that I need help identifying. Can anyone ID these items for me please. It's a 77 2+2. 2.0, 1.8 and 1.2 refer to thickness others are L X W 2.0 Any help appreciated. Cheers Paul

Thanks Linton, my sanity has been restored, although some who know me may disagree! Your knowledge is invaluable. This is the final missing piece to the puzzle, so can move forward now. Thanks again. Cheers Paul

Hi guys Need help identifying where the attached washers/seals/spacers/? go. For some reason I had these bundled separately to all my other grouped bits and I just can't remember where they came from (old timers disease, I think). They are a firm rubber, but they are pliable. Outside diameter is 40mm, inside 17mm and 23mm across the raised sections. Car is a 77 2+2, commonly referred to as the Bus by Locky. Any suggestions really appreciated. It's driving me nuts. Cheers Paul

Thanks Luke, will check them out.

I have one of these on the 77 2+2 I am currently restoring. Apparently they were installed at the factory on later cars to address a "clunk" and/or vibration coming from the diff/rear end. They also fitted them after sales if the customer complained of a clunk or vibration end the rear. They are referred to as a diff counterbalance. Don't know how effective they are, but from what I have read it seems the main issue was with the automatics, but mine (and a number of the other contributors to this information) is and has always been a manual. So mine probably added as a result of a complaint after sales. Hope that clears it up. Cheers Paul

Out of interest, where did you source the headlights from? I'm looking at something similar for my rebuild.

OK, mystery solved. For anyone interested, this is a support for the rear seat in the 2+2. When I bought the car the rear had been pulled out by the PO and all the bits stored in a box. There was also a different seat base from another vehicle included and this support came as part of that. Somehow it got mixed up with my dash stuff in the storage process. Apologies for any confusion. Freddo still safely ensconced in the fridge. Cheers Paul

Hi guys Reassembling my dash and interior and this bracket was in with those parts, but I can't work out where it goes. Size of one face is 75mm x 60mm and other face is 75mm x 80mm - this face has a plastic covering which probably stops whatever (I presume) is resting on it from sliding around. First in with correct answer gets the Freddo. Cheers Paul

Great, thanks Locky, just what I was looking for. Cheers Paul