Ahoysandy

looking to sell as a whole at this point in time but will keep you posted otherwise.

certainly repairable with the right parts and time. I have a bigger restoration that I need to invest in over this one unfortunately.

Hi All, For sale is the shell of my 1976 Datsun 260z 2 Seater. I tried depict the car as best I could with the images. It is stripped down to a bare shell (unibody) with a few front suspension pieces also left on there. Including a steering rack and steering Column. Also has the Manual 260z pedal box in there, no pedals included. Car has had a front end collision which has resulted in significant damage to the rails, tunnel and firewall forward. Car does contain rust in front lower quarter (pictured) as well as floor pans. would recommend the car for panel cuts or someone looking to repair a rear end collision but if you have bigger ideas this might work for you. From the firewall Backward is still in good Nic, Rear quarters, roof skin and rear valance all still straight with minimal rust in these, Wheel well is also in good condition (pictured). More than happy to answer questions and take more images if required. car has been garaged for its entire ownership under my hands. currently sitting on a dolly with caster wheels. (this is not included). Not in a rush to sell as I still have the space to keep this. Asking $3.5k Pick up (or + delivered). Best to organise an inspection if you're able to. More than happy and able to organise interstate transport or even within NSW. please only text and call replies only, I work incredibly odd hours so will try to get back to you as soon as I can. Thanks, Alexander Hoy. Sydney, NSW Australia. 0435309792 http://www.Alexander-Hoy.com ahoysandy@gmail.com

Hey guys, Has anyone order off Zcarparts.com / theZstore.com - Motorsport auto recently? or at all for that matter?! I'm having major issues with placing an order with them. I fill the cart with the parts I need (full weatherstrip kit, Reproduction fender mirrors, horn contact switch) and proceed to check out as a guest (also have tried with an account) but the shipping is unavailable, It says they will contact me regarding this. so I fill in all my details and get to the "thanks for your order" page. nothing ever eventuates after this. no contact, no money withdrawn. I've even tried following them up with emails but no reply. any help on the matter would be greatly appreciated. thanks, Alex.

Have sent you a PM.

Hi guys, I'm on the hunt for a left hand side guard as well as the front lower valance corner pieces. Would prefer in NSW and will travel for them but if someone is willing to ship I'm happy to pay for that also. thanks! Alex.

hey mate, did you ever get around to those Diffs? interested.

Got it Sorted!! right before the weekend too which is good Huge shoutout to James & Brett at MIA Engines, i gave them a buzz and they had suggested the weber air filter socks to be stuck up against the trumpets, thereby restricting flow. BINGO! Took those off to see how it ran. Like a dream! I will be putting the suggested air filters on from them and having it the once over in the near future. Thanks for the help on here guys, definitely learn't a few more things about keeping her running!

I tightened down the manifold, put spacers to match the manifolds and re did the gasket but no luck with that. Still misfires, i also put the Heat shielding back in to prevent any further vapour lock but no results there. @howdy I did the full throttle pull to check plugs and cylinders 2,3 & 4 came out BLACK. unfortunately, when i went to grab the multimeter to start probing, i found the wire to be ripped off. so new multimeter has to be acquired before i continue. Put a larger sized fuel filter in to see if this could help, nothing on that. I do believe it to be a lean mixture, resulting from the new headers having better flow or different backpressure. I'm considering spending the $100 on new leads just for peace of mind in the future too (these were replaced when the engine was built though).

Man, there certainly is a copious amount of other things to check over! hahah For now I've checked the plugs against my previous ones and they measure up the same gap, an i also went looking for any visible air leaks or blow out from the exhaust gasket. The new manifold did NOT have the same spacing as the intake manifold and i found 2 nuts on the lower side that were finger loose. So my bets at the moment are one intake leak. Working on spacing the manifolds today and redoing the gasket. Leaner mixtures is more than likely true as this is something i had thought of before having new headers put on, but i assumed as its still a 2.5 system, it shouldn't have varied enough to notice, but i'm not as experienced in tuning yet. If I piece it all back together and the leak didn't solve this, I'll whip out the multimeter tomorrow and get testing! I really appreciate the suggestions guys, has helped a lot with such quick response! Definitely keeping this thread in my notes for next time its goes bad on me hahah

I removed the Killswitch incase of a faulting switch, nope. worth a shot. They are triple 45mm Webers and happens in every gear at roughly the same point, the fuel filter appears clean still so possibility that the FPR diaphram has gone bad from what i've read. I've put my 3 previous plugs in place of cylinders 2-4 to see if this would rectify, but it still happens. Linton is most likely correct with fuel delivery. what i have taken out is the heat sheilding i had between the headers and carbies as it fouled on the new pipes, will need to re adjust and fit to see if this fixes. drove it around the block a few times after trying each change and the misfire feels to be getting worse lower in the Rpm, but that could just be me thinking about it more and more and looking for the issue (lol)

Hey guys, Just after a little insight on the issue as I'm just about out of ideas trying to solve this without replacing things from square one. My Z has come back from the exhaust shop after putting new headers on and has developed what feels like a rev limiter at 5kRpm. Now just before it went IN to the shop, i did change the plugs, oil, filter, fuel filter and coolant. Free revving, it will make it to 6.5kRpm but is hesitant around the 5k mark. Underload it struggles to surpass 5kRpm. You can also feel it stuttering (i believe misfire) at lower rpm when under load but nothing that holds it back significantly. When i pulled the NEW plugs, cylinder 2 & 3 had some mount of carbon buildup on the sides of the node and cylinder 4 has a large amount (entire plug black). This was after only 40km of sydney traffic (mostly idle lol) and 75km of low rpm highway cruising without noticing much. it only occurs when i give it some and ride the tacho up higher. Tracing this back, i checked all plugs whilst out on the valve cover, making good spark, then checked all leads are creating good spark. At the same time i removed the dizzy cap, cleaned all the contact points & rotor with some sandpaper. After this i went over the ignition coil, checking connections and spade connectors, cleaned the spades on the ignition module (280zx distributor & coil). I'm just about out of things to tackle on it. Car has a refurbished 280zx Distributor & coil, OEM electronic pump with mechanical block off plate, Malpassi FPR. My thoughts are along bad coil/module/fuel delivery now. Potential thought on tune as the headers are different, but misfiring low rpm confuses me. Idles perfect. Cheers .

+1 for kirrawee, he's really good and will get it sounding on point!

10pm? I assume you mean AM, will more than likely be attending in the Z!

I don't know how enthused i am about updating this as it's been so long since i last did (lol) but i had the car running over christmas/new year break which was great. sheared the harmonic balancer right off, had that replaced. Did the trans and diff bushings which made a MASSIVE difference to driveability (highly recommend if you have changed these). Had all the final tune up and dyno with MIA engines just last month coming out with 180RwHp & 232FtLb of torque. and managed to pass Rego again this year (Woo!!). Replaced a speedo cable as it stripped the end near the transmission. Really fun car now to drive, gets up and goes when you want it to and can cruise down the motorway in 5th without and issue. Big props to MIA having them drop in the motor as well as building it, getting it running again and consistently being great to talk to about what it needs. They know what they're doing when it comes down to it!! I've since made a few changes, with RE003 tyres all round, not as fat which is slightly disappointing but the 235/50/15 don't exist anymore. There's a set of Rota RKR's that are in the garage i'm contemplating putting on. Right next to a box with BC Br racing coilovers which are yet to be welded in. I also wrote up a feature article on the car and owning it. http://speednation.com.au/the-year-of-the-rat-ratsun/ there's probably a bunch of others things i should be updating on here that i've left unaddressed, but i'm sure someone will ask about it if they want lol. I'm also having an issue with my fuel tank/filter. car leans and/or misfires out and after i replace the filter (i've done this twice now) its all fine. i've gotta clean out the tank somehow.

Fun article on a local car. http://speednation.com.au/the-year-of-the-rat-ratsun/

I have a few more pieces up for sale on gumtree also, including front and rear bumpers with the original 260z radiator too.

Hey guys, have had really good experience buying and selling on here so i'd thought i'd chuck these parts up before facebook or gumtree! they're from my twin round top SU's as i've now moved over to triples. Fuel rail - $60 Filters - $50

As I replaced the 3 center gauges, I wanted to keep extra gauges on the dash to a minimal and thought this little light idea would be discreet enough. I do have an Oil temp gauge (also includes high temp warning) now which I was going to use as my main source of engine temps as I've herd an oil temp is more accurate regarding what the engine is doing rather than water, hence I was going to just use 20 degree indicators for water to accompany the oil temps any suggestions on hiding extra gauges if I do go with a proper gauge later on down the track? I thought about in the glove box? I did also relocate my fuel gauge tucked up underneath the steering column which was sneaky I thought! Haha terrorise?! Nooo, what makes you think a P plater with a loud car would do that??

I thought i'd do a quick update on what's happened recently! I'll pick where i left off with the engine. It's still at MIA. I went and saw it when i went to take all the carburettors and the manifold (arrived a few days after) plus a few other little pieces to him. There was no work on the head started yet as i had mentioned in the previous post and the bottom end is completely disassembled still. I know the boys at MIA know what they're doing with the L series and no doubt will provide top quality work but when I call 8 days after i've been to visit them and they say they haven't touched it all week... considering it has been 12 weeks in to the engine build and they haven't started assembling it, you can kind of see the impression i am starting to get here. Anyway, they gave me a time frame of 1-2 months completion time so fingers crossed there -.- I managed to get the drivers door regulator all sorted and working now for summer! but coincidentally, my fan/control unit as well as windscreen wiper +washer jets have stopped working. can't figure out why on this one. i've replaced fuses and had the center console out multiple times about it... but not sure where the source problem is, something i have to look in to further before rego. Got the O2 sensor installed in my exhaust and all wired up ready and today, I replaced the flasher relay unit which was the source of my slow/frozen indicator! so thats a positive Me and my uncle(who's an electrician by trade but loves tinkering as much as i do) came up with this cool little idea for a water temp gauge. now, this won't be very accurate but its just an indication as i have an oil temp gauge fitted now. we had a little fixed temp thermostat laying around the garage and thought to use it as the switch for some electronic radiator fans, which we will eventually do, after this gauge mod. but if we were to get 4 of these, at varying temps (50c, 70c, 90c, 100c) and place them on the radiator hose, then running individual circuits with an LED bulb so that when the thermostat shuts, the LED comes on, giving a rough indication of temp. i'd also run one that is constant so on startup i can see when it reaches operating temp from 0c. we also had the idea of running green, yellow and red LED bulbs to indicate a rough temp for this. If anyone has any feedback, on anything. or tips on what to do with any of the things mention so far, feel free to come! I always love reading what other people think or what they would do Ps. still not sure what to do about the Charcoal canister?? here's some photos from the wash i gave the the other day after towing it out of the garage and up the driveway with my mates car lol

hey guys, finally got around to uploading my shots from the day. They're up here on my facebook page. https://www.facebook.com/WideOpenShutter/photos/?tab=album&album_id=1299223226768099 Good to meet all of you and see your Zeds! hopefully will see you all out again soon

sounds like you're doing the fun part of the build to me! all the problem solving and searching for more issue and solutions. glad you got the frame rails sorted first thing but most definitely, as PB said, replace the flasher can. they're fairly inexpensive and tend to be the source of the issue. (was for me at least)

my mistake, thanks @Justyy

here's a 240z that just went up yesterday: http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/wodonga-region/cars-vans-utes/1971-datsun-240z-coupe/1127221130 " The car is in need of ALOT of rust repair, i have included pictures of the worst of it so you know what you are getting. the floor pans need and boot sill needs replacing. not sure about the rest. The motor turns over, and runs for a few seconds on areostart. for more photos please check out http://s1253.photobucket.com/user/MeLKoR1980/library/ This care is located about 4 hours north of Melbourne. "

hey guys, thanks for your tips and concerns about how the harness is set up. I certainly won't be running them anytime soon and until i can get a proper bar made up (looking at a half cage in the distant future). In the mean time, things are getting closer with the engine! I received the triple weber carbs today! (after 9 weeks of back order from Redline) as much as everyone says buying carbs from weber is one of the better options, I ordered the 45mm conversion kit and it was a bit of a screw around. Daniel from Weber was very nice a patient with me but yeh, can't say i've had the best experience there! still waiting on the manifold from Redline (they're meant to send it direct to me). Always good news from the boys at MIA Engines and things are moving smoothly, getting work done on the head currently! I've seen a few engines that have come out of MIA recently and they're some pretty impressive engines! As for work on my project, i'm fiddling with the driver door reg so my window will go all the way down and also the fuel delivery system! How can i delete my Charcoal canister or set it up with triples ? (I'm not concerned with emissions at this point in time) I'm more than happy to keep it in my engine bay but if it's as simple as running a vacuum line from the manifold back to the tank vent hard line, i will do that. Cheers, Sandy!