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Everything posted by my_mad_z

  1. Thanks for today gents, was a fun drive!
  2. So far, so good. Tailshaft seems to be holding up. I got a couple decent launches but then couldn't load it up enough due to light rain. Hopefully see you guys in the morning.
  3. I'm about to go for a test run to see if this new tailshaft holds up. Fingers crossed.
  4. I've got my new tail shaft in but haven't been able to test drive it yet. I'll try and get it out today if the rain clears up. That sucks mate, hope there's minimal damage and the clean up isn't too bad mate.
  5. I'm keen so long as my new tail shaft holds up; hopefully I find out next week.
  6. I'm using the R200 longnose setup with a standard mount and cross member; the only difference is the polyurethane bushes in the moustache bar. I can't adjust anything in the diff setup without modification. I wonder if my engine mounts are stuffed, I haven't checked them thoroughly so I'll check that next. Nice idea about raising the engine mounts, if mounts are stuffed that could be the reason why it's out of whack... thanks for the advice! I've replaced the original gearbox mount using this https://au.gktech.com/polyurethane-gearbox-mount Hopefully I can get the angle I need by spacing the engine/gearbox. Marc.
  7. So I mounted everything back in and I removed the thick washers from the moustache bar as I replaced the original bushes with polyurethane ones; my diff angle is now 3.5° up, tailshaft and gearbox are still the same. I found a good app that helps with driveline angle and it says the setup is out of tolerance. I think I have to change the gearbox angle to try and get it within tolerance. I'm not sure if anyone has measured their angles? If so, and you're happy to share, please let me know. Last thing I want to do is get a beefier tailshaft a s break it cause my angles are wrong.
  8. I had a chat with Locky and after some discussion, I thought about the diff. The LSD was cooked from the day I got it and after putting clutches in it, it stopped open wheeling. That, along with some stickier tyres, might be causing the issue. When I had the tailshaft redone, the guy said the uni's won't handle more than 300hp, looks like I might need to upgrade the tailshaft. Checking a few more things to see if I can change the angles so the diff/gearbox are parallel.
  9. Thanks for the reply. They're hardy spicer uni's, no grease nipple. The body of the uni isn't breaking, it's shredding the bearings and breaking the bearing caps.
  10. Happy New Year to you all. New Year = New Z problem and I'm hoping someone out there has some wisdom they can share. Sorry for the long post. I'm having an issue with my tailshaft where the rear uni joint keeps breaking. Prior to it breaking the first time, it was in the car for 6 years and never had an issue; the tailshaft was made professionally after I did the s13 gearbox conversion. After it broke the second time, I started looking at the rest of the driveline and noticed my gearbox mount was stuffed. I had another lying around so I replaced it and then used some chain to stop the gearbox from lifting under acceleration. Drove the car easy and there was no vibration and everything seemed fine. Under heavy acceleration, bang, same uni broke. Nursed the car back home and started looking over the whole car. I measured the operating angles between the gearbox and diff and I don't think it's right. Does anyone know what the angles are and what the tolerance is? I've checked online but haven't had much luck yet. My diff is 4° up, tailshaft is 0.5° up and gearbox is 1.5° up. I'm in the process of modifying the gearbox crossmember to suit a S13 polyurethane mount and I'm trying to work out if I need to shift the gearbox to change the angle? I checked the diff mount and it looks fine. The only changes I've done in recent months is coilovers and tyres but that was months ago. I also raised the height of the car slightly to get more ground clearance for a roadworthy so I could get club reg. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Marc.
  11. I don't recall using a gasket when I rebuilt my L28; I did a quick google search and managed to find this info: https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/105781-quick-question-on-chain-tensioner/ Hope that helps.
  12. So sad to hear. So young! Condolences to his family.
  13. Count me in, looking forward to it!
  14. I take it you no longer have these calipers?
  15. Hi Matt, I have seen something pop up on Facebook about replacing the distributor with a CAS and it uses the existing distributor mounting location but I can't recall the name of it; so far all I've managed to find is this: I can't recall who made the one I saw, if I come across it, I'll add the link to the post. As Gav suggested, eBay US. If you want a trigger wheel, I've seen this: https://hokeperformance.squarespace.com/store/l-series-crank-angle-sensor-kit Hope that helps. Marc.
  16. Might be a little difficult arranging a meeting point as I'm not sure what direction everyone is heading in from; if weather permits, I'll see you guys there. Looking forward to catching up and having a chat with you all.
  17. Since we're all from different sides of town, anyone got a suggestion on a meeting point?
  18. Anyone attending this at the Caribbean Gardens? Would be good to meet somewhere prior and cruise down together; anyone have any suggestions on a meeting point(s)?
  19. Hi Peter, Thanks for the info. I converted the rear from drum to disc many years ago; looking at the Haynes manual and other resources online, they label it as a proportioning valve so that's why I used that terminology: I'm suspecting there may have been an issue with my 'Warning Light Switch' (item 8 ) because after deleting it, the pedal and brakes felt much better.
  20. Looks like the R34 master cylinder has a proportioning valve built in for the rear so I ended up gutting the proportioning valve (located in the rear of the car) and deleted the pressure switch in the engine bay as I suspect there's an issue with it. Brakes feel so much better now and the rears are no longer locking up. Just have to wire the switch of the master cylinder reservoir and its done. Can't believe the difference in braking since the MC/booster upgrade!
  21. Brake pads are the same brand front and rear however tyres are different. Fronts are Bridgestone Potenza and rears are Nitto semi slicks... I'm going to try swapping front/rear tyres to see if that makes a difference.
  22. Thanks Gordo, I'm looking at getting a manual proportional valve so I can adjust the biasing. I'll try the master cylinder and brake booster upgrade to see if that makes any difference and if not, I'll be adding the valve.
  23. Hey guys, hope you are all well. Sorry in advance for the long winded post, just trying to provide all the info I can. I had an incident a few weekends ago where I had to brake hard in my Z and it scared the absolute sh*t out of me. I was doing 100kph on the freeway and the car in front slammed his brakes on; I jumped on the brake pedal; the rear brakes locked up instantly and sent me into a spin. I tried my best to correct it but it was a panic brake and I ended up losing control; I know it wasn't the right thing to do but I'm pretty sure I had my foot buried on the brake the whole time I have the following brake setup: Front brakes converted to a vented disc from a Peugot 504 with Toyota 4 pot calipers (SW12 from memory); Rear converted to disc using the R31 Skyline discs and calipers; Master cylinder is 7/8 (not sure if it's a 240Z or 260Z unit) with the original booster (small booster on the early 240's). I did some reading up on what may have caused this and I came across Locky's write up on the rear disc conversion and realised I didn't remove the plastic/rubber valve out of the master cylinder from the rear line when I did the conversion; the conversion was done long before Locky's write up. I pulled the MC apart and inspected everything, all looked ok. I removed the rubber/plastic valve and in the process I noticed that the front line had the same valve so I've removed that as well. Checked all of my calipers and they are all in working order, no seized pistons, no leaks and everything moves freely. I put everything back together and bled the brakes. I checked the Haynes manual and it suggests to brake from 50kph and if the rears lock up, it's likely to be the proportioning valve. Took it for a drive and did the test and the rears locked up. I decided to pull the proportioning valve out from the rear of the car and pulled it apart. It was full of gunk but the seals and bore appeared to be ok so I cleaned it all out and put it back in. Bled the system again and took it for a drive and did the same test and it the rears still locked up. My MC lines aren't labelled front or rear so I tried swapping the lines over to see if that would make a difference; no difference, rears still lock up. I don't think the proportioning valves are available anymore and I'm not sure what else to try now? Anyone got any suggestions? I'm considered using a manual proportioning valve and deleting the existing valve from the rear, I can't see what else would be causing the issue? I'm not 100% sure if the proportioning valve is the issue or if something else can cause the rears to lock up? The only thing I haven't pulled apart is the brake pressure switch located in the engine bay to see if that's stuffed or not? Not sure if that would cause the rear brakes to lock up? I've been looking at upgrading to the 15/16 MC but I had a chat with Tai and he told me about the R34 MC/booster upgrade that he did that works a treat with the Toyota/R31 caliper upgrade so I'm going down to the wreckers on Saturday to see if I can get one to try it out. I'm open to any advice or suggestions on what to check/try. Thanks in advance. Marc.
  24. Good luck with it Elyas... as I was reading the post, I was thinking about the 260Z with the RB30 in it; was going to send a link but sadly, as you mentioned, it's no longer on there. Hope you find what you're looking for. Marc.
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