my_mad_z

If I had one, I'd give it to you. I passed roadworthy without a radiator shroud; I'm surprised they're pinging you on a radiator shroud! I just checked VS126 - Roadworthy requirements, and there's no mention of it in there.

Picked up the new heater core today; very happy with the service and the price - $260 incl. Not sure if anyone needs a new core, they have received two cores by mistake. They'll need your end tanks to complete the heater core. Contact: Melbourne Wide Auto Radiators (03) 9459-5924 23 Orr St, West Heidelberg, Vic.

Agreed! The guy I went and saw here in Melbourne contacted someone in QLD for the custom core... I think I'm going to go ahead with it as there aren't many other options available. Will let you know the details once I get it back if you like.

Just got a quote to get my heater core done; $260 for a custom core. I was hoping I could get away with a repair but it has to have the core replaced... there's no longer a listing for them and we tried to find a similar sized core but no luck. Anyone else had any luck with heater core replacement for a series 1 240Z?

If all goes well, I'll join you guys.

PM sent.

I'm interested; any chance of some photo's or details?

It's been a while since I've used their services but there's Darby's Brake & Clutch in Preston: http://www.darbysbrakeclutch.com.au/contact

Sorry to hear that Sam, hope you get your bike back! Unfortunately I think your real estate agent is correct; they generally only cover building; if they cover contents, it will only be minimal cover that include blinds/carpet/etc. Believe me I know how you feel. Some low life scum bag decided to rob my house 4 years ago - took my safe, laptops, jewellery, cameras, etc... the safe had my Z keys, both sets of keys to my wife's brand new car, jewellery, and just over $23k cash.... all up got done over close to $50k by the time you add everything up.... only got $12k from insurance They caught him - the moron was stupid enough to leave a finger print behind... he got linked to doing over 8 houses and this low life scum bag walked out of court without doing time... how is that justice??? The law is here to protect the criminals! Didn't get anything back, all I wanted back were my dad's belongings that I was given after he passed away - can't replace sentimental items.

Sorry guys, I'm out.

Hi John, Happy to meet you there. Haven't got an etag in the Z; can get a pass if I need to.

Hi John, Sounds good to me mate. I'm happy to meet you in Northcote, where do you want to meet?

Besides voting, I think I'm free this Saturday is free; got room for one more?

Nice to see you guys today; weather was great and there were some really nice cars!

Thanks for the feedback gents. I had a look at the second page on the hybridz link and he's lowered the car; anything wider than a 225 and I will more than likely need to roll the lip. I'm currently running 225x45xR17 tyres and the wheels are 7" with an ET of +15 on the front and ET of +25 on the rear. From memory, I have approximately 5-7mm clearance on the front between the wheel and spring perch and the rear is about 3-5mm clearance (I'll need to confirm these measurements). I did a trial fit of the rota RB's 7.5" ET +20 and they fouled on the front as I thought they would but if I've crunched my numbers correctly, I think the 8.5" ET +4 will fit; if anything, I may need to roll the lip on the guards but I'm sticking with 225x45xR17 so I don't think I will have an issue with it. The back space will be 125mm with the 8.5" which shouldn't foul on the struts; I currently have about 25mm of room to play with between the tyre and the rear quarter, the 8.5's will stick out an extra 21mm so hopefully I won't have to roll the lip.... I'm going to see if I can do a trial fit to be sure but not many hold Rota stock; hopefully I can find another wheels with the same measurements to trial. I did the calculations manually and then found this site: http://www.rimsntires.com/specspro.jsp and it confirmed my measurements. My struts have been shortened and spring perches repositioned to give more clearance - I wanted to put coil overs at the time but couldn't afford it back then as I was a full time uni student... Really want a set of Rota's without using spacers or having to redo all of my suspension! Marc.

I know this is a pretty old post but matsdat, did you end up getting a set of these for your 240Z?

Hi Gareth, Just wondering if you ended up making a decision on which diff centre to use?

Hi Gareth, Really appreciate the offer mate but they're different to the one's I have; I've got the 4-bolt pattern from the turbo model I believe.

After pulling the diff out and inspecting everything, all looks good - backlash was well within tolerance so it wasn't the diff. Took the drive shafts out and had them checked again, looks like they were the culprit - they were good when I put them; the guys at the drive shaft place said they couldn't be overhauled. What they ended up doing was putting oversized bearings in and swapping the left/right cages to try and buy me a bit more time. Did the job, haven't heard the noise since putting it all back together. Tried to offer the guy money for doing what he did, wouldn't accept anything! There are some decent people left in this world!!! A & F Drive Shaft Repair in Hawthorn if anyone is interested. Next step is to see what options there are for Z31 CV replacements... checking the forum now :-)

Awesome job!

Thanks for the response dat2kman. Just to clarify a few things, I wasn't doing clutch dumps, WOT in 2nd and 3rd is what I meant by hard dumps - I'll choose my words more carefully next time. I am going to replace the bolts for the tails shaft, just haven't had a chance to get them yet; I did find some old shanked bolts from my 260Z but they weren't a good fit either. I have removed the diff mount and checked it, it's still in good condition, no cracks. I realise the SuperPro bushes transmit more noise but since I've put them in the rear end definitely feels much better. The CV hub adaptors went over a year without an issue; my fault for not doing a routine check on the bolts - I used Loctite on them but only mid strength; it's not like they were hanging on by a thread. I used high tensile bolts and when I made the adaptors, don't know why they snapped, could have been that I over tightened them after I found they were 'slightly' loose. I don't think my CV's are an issue, before I put them in I had them checked and I cleaned/regreased them; I haven't checked them since I installed them so that's why I mentioned removing them to check them. I'll check the diff as soon as I get a chance to pull it out.

Hi all, Hope you are all well. I've been going through a process of elimination with my 240Z and I'm down to the diff (R200 VLSD from a HR31) - I've attached a sound recording I took when I was turning the rear wheels back and forth by hand; 14 sec into the recording is the sound I think I'm hearing while driving but it's more pronounced when driving. I couldn't get the sound to happen every time when turning the wheel by hand. I've eliminated a few things, hoping to get some advice on what to do/try. In the process of elimination, I came across a few issues that sounded very similar to what I'm hearing when under acceleration. Mind you it doesn't happen every time I accelerate, it's somewhat random. I'll try to keep it short: At first I thought it was my rear discs that were moving slightly (slack between the holes and the wheels studs) due to my wheel adaptors coming a bit loose over time - confirmed it wasn't this by fixing the disc to the hub using a counter sunk bolt. The noise didn't happen for sometime after that but after a few hard dumps in 2nd and 3rd gear, it started again.... turns out the studs in the adapters I made for the Z31 CV upgrade sheared/snapped. I fixed this by putting new studs and reinforced it by welding the adaptors to the hubs... all seemed fine for a while until I turned the boost up.... the noise came back I pulled the tail shaft out; it's only a year old and the uni's are in good order. I didn't have the original tail shaft bolts and noticed that the bolts I'm using don't fill the hole completely and this could be allowing the tail shaft to twist slightly under acceleration. I didn't get a chance to get new bolts today, hopefully tomorrow. My moustache bar has new superpro bushes as it kept destroying the rubber bushes; diff mount is in good order and the front of the diff is strapped down with chain (snapped the original strap and then snapped the first chain). I haven't checked the pinion yet, will do that tonight if I get a chance. Next step was to disconnect the CV drive shafts to make sure it's not the CV's (don't think it is) and last remove the diff and open it up for inspection. If my diff is on it's way out, any suggestions on the best option for replacement? I've searched the forum and online and I don't know which way to go Marc. 42663_5d235e0086df26e7e9fc8a2d40feb03173176f0d.zip

I'd like to join you guys; hopefully have my new wheels by then

Count me in please! Was great cruising together :-)

I sent the Zstore an email about 12 days ago asking for a quote on postage for clear headlight covers and a 1983 280ZXT rotor button - haven't heard back from them. Going to email them again. Might be because I asked for a quote to Australia and not a specific address? I've sent them another email with specific details, hopefully hear back from them soon. Let me know if you're interested with ordering from the Zstore, maybe we can get a better deal on shipping if we combine the order? I'll let you know what the estimate is for shipping when I hear back from them. Marc.