my_mad_z

I'm running a megasquirt II in my Z and it's been an absolute pleasure to tune! I ordered my MSII back in 2005 and put it together, made the loom, installed it in the Z and haven't looked back since. Initially I was using the NA 280ZX dizzy and configured the MSII to a VR setup and it worked quite well. I ended up buying a 1983 turbo 280ZX dizzy from Lindsay and upgraded to that (came with the correct shaft but I don't think he has any of these left) - changed the settings of the MSII to suit and it works well. With the 280ZX NA dizzy, I had to set the dizzy in place and lock the mechanical advance; don't have to do this with the turbo version. The MSII won't do sequential injection but the MS3 does; I converted a friend of mine to megasquirt, installed it in his 240Z that runs a charged 383 chev and he loves it. I purchased a copy of the full version of Tuner Studio's - has built in auto-tune that works a treat. I know some people don't rate the megasquirt, but I swear by it! It does everything I need it to do and all at a very reasonable cost! There is a step by step build on the system for a 280ZX that tells you how to set up the MSII here: https://www.diyautotune.com/tech_articles/how_to_megasquirt_your_280zx_turbo.htm Marc.

I'm also interested.

Welcome! Love the write up, great read.

Hi Shane, I'm interested in the headlight buckets. What condition is the Perspex in (looks good from what I can see in the pic)? Steel or fibreglass buckets? Thanks. Marc.

I've been using E85 since I built my forged motor and I love the stuff! I ran the engine in on 98 octane and as soon as it was run in, I switched to E85 and only use it from United servo's as they guarantee 85% mix where as Caltex is between 60-85%. I haven't noticed any difference in performance if the car sits for 2 weeks with fuel in the tank. The engine and plugs are always clean, little if any carbon deposits. I do notice that the oil tends to smell of E85 but I change the oil every few thousand km's. One thing I really love about E85 is the cabin fumes are almost completely gone It's not as economical as 98 but I've managed to get 5.5km's per litre with some hard driving so I'm sure I could improve if I stayed off the boost So far I've had the boost up to 23psi and no detonation - I think I've set the timing to around 20° or so and I think it will take more but I don't want to push my luck. Looking at cranking the boost up to 30psi and winding the timing down but waiting to get some decent rubber to try and get traction. My long 2c

Talk Torque Engineering - Bill Malkoutzis; located in Eltham.

What octane fuel are you using? Is the car detonating at all or hesitating under boost? I'll upload my ignition map when I get on my pc but my setup is a little different; 890cc injectors, gt2871r turbo, F54 block, P90 head and it runs on E85. Minus the forged pistons, my internals are all stock as well.

Hmmmm, definitely wasn't behaving myself! To be honest, I'm very lucky I wasn't booked for 'hooning' and the car wasn't impounded! The car was going a little bit sideways in 2nd (and a touch of 3rd)- was playing with the boost and tuning so there was a little more 'action' when I opened it up; unmarked highway patrol car was heading towards me and saw it all... like I said, very lucky. He was very reasonable and to be honest, he did me a favour; the car is legal now and I won't have to worry about getting defected any more.

The cost for the VASS depends on how many visits to the engineer. My first visit was $192 and that covered going over my modifications and working what was required to get the VASS; was about an hour of his time. Next visit he went over the car again and checked the 'to do' list was completed to his satisfaction and they were, so he carried out the brake test and went over the car again. Printed the report and put the compliance sticker on the car. That visit cost me $721. If he is not satisfied with the changes, then it will involve more visits increasing the total cost. A few things to note: - Exhaust dB test required; - Emission test for CO levels and hydro carbon levels required; - Inertia retractable seat belts required; - Weigh bridge report required; - Collapsible steering column required (thank God the Z's already have this!) Most of my items were roadworthy related, biggest thing I had to do was the seat belts which worked out really well and is much easier than having to readjust harnesses for passengers all of the time! Happy to help out with info/advice now that I have been through it all. I think I will have to go back and update the certificate once I get my new wheels as the certificate states I had the 14's on the car - $330 thank you very much! Marc.

Hi guys, Just an update.... got the engineers certificate (VASS) today! Also managed to get a roadworthy today and got the defect removed! Such a relief!!! Thanks to all that offered help/advice, much appreciated. Gordo, I'll drop your wheels off to you on the weekend if that suits you. Now to ring insurance and let them know the car is engineered. Thanks again. Marc.

I did consider doing what you're saying Scott but don't think he will let it slide; more so as the car has been defected they might go over it in a bit more detail at vicroads. Not sure if I should risk it. I'll ask the question, worst case he says no.

Thanks Gareth - going to need it! Thanks Gordo, PM sent.

Enjoy the game Gordo Appreciate it mate. Thanks Gareth; that does ring a bell.... Definitely have 260z stub axles; will check what I did on the front. Marc.

Ok, the skyline 15" wheels didn't fit as you mentioned dat2kman.... This is really starting to annoy me I can't recall if I used 260Z 2+2 struts in my car or if I stuck with 240Z struts; it's been too long - not sure if this has altered the hub position. Gordo/Locky, if your offer still stands, I'd be extremely grateful if you have something I can use. Was hoping to redo my exhaust tonight but somehow I don't think my neighbours would appreciate the lovely sound of a drop saw at this time of night. Marc.

Hahaha... he's pretty switched on with the Z's as his son is restoring one. Unfortunately they only take the Australian market into account when comparing power increase/injection/etc.

Hi Gordo, I've measure the distance between the hub have and the spring and I've got about 120mm which leaves a few mm between the tyre and spring (5mm at a guess). With my 17x7.5 wheels (225/45 R17) I took a measurement of the rear of the wheel hub (with the adaptor connected) and measured to the edge of the tyre and that was 120mm as well. I've got a friend bringing over a set of R31 Skyline interceptor wheels tomorrow to see if they fit; hopefully they do and I won't have to trouble anyone. I really appreciate the offers gents, nice to know there's many helping hands out there. Take care. Marc.

Hi dazzed, Definitely need a VASS and roadworthy... increase in power by more than 10%/fuel injection/turbo charging all fall under the requirements for a VASS. The office noted I need a VASS and road worthy on the defect notice. He also put down emissions but I advised him the car was pre-pollution so he crossed it off. As for the wheels, I've read what the engineer is working off, VSB 14 Section LS (Tyres, rims, suspension and steering) and it says that you can go 1.3 times wider than the widest OEM standard offered. From memory, the 240Z had 175 so this works out to 227.5 and I won't run anything more than a 225. In regards to the overall diameter, it cannot be more than 16mm larger or 25mm smaller than original. Thanks for the heads up, appreciate it. Marc.

Hi dat2kman, Thanks for the heads up; I'm not going to put my 17's back on the car. The engineer said he doesn't mind what goes on their for the test, so long as it's legal and roadworthy. Believe me, the last thing I want is an excuse to get defected again! Marc.

Thanks Alan; that's initially how I understood it but the more I read it, the more I doubted what I thought. Thanks for clarifying. Marc.

Thanks Gordo. I'll measure it tonight when I get home and get back to you. I'm not sure how to interpret this: "All rims fitted to a front axle or a rear axle must be of the same diameter, offset, width and mounting configuration (except for spare wheels used in an emergency situation)." Does this mean all wheels must be the same width or does it mean front wheels need to be the same and rear wheels need to be the same? Marc.

Hi Mark, Thanks for the offer - the only thing that I have with good tread are my 17's with the hub adapters; I'm happy to swap but you need longer wheel studs on the rear to fit the adapter so I'm not sure if they will fit on your car. I'm at work as well and by the time I get home, it will be 6-7pm so I'm not so sure that will be convenient for you. Marc.

Appreciate the offer Locky. Happy to put some rubber on them if they fit. I'm going to check with the engineer to see if he will pass 16x7 / 16x8; I have a feeling I came across something that says wheels have to be the same size all round??? Marc.

Hi guys, I wasn't sure where to post this, hope I've picked the right place. My 240Z got a defect sticker two weeks ago for not having a VASS for the turbo upgrade. I'm going through the process of getting the VASS at the moment; the engineer seems to be happy with everything I have done so I'm hoping I don't have any drama's getting the VASS/Roadworthy. I'm down to the last three items to fix and I've hit a brick wall with one of them; my current wheels rely on a set of hub adaptors which are not roadworthy - I have four sets of wheels and none of them fit without spacers/adaptors! I've upgraded the front brakes using the Toyota caliper so the standard 14's wont fit. I have a set of Z31 15's but they hit the strut without a spacer, same with the set of 16's I have and the 17's need hub adaptors. I was hoping to get something temporary so I can pass a brake test for the VASS and then get a roadworthy - then once I get the car back on the road, was going to buy a set of wheels that will fit without spacers/adaptors. I know I can do this now but I can't drive the car anywhere to try wheels on and see how it looks and I'm running out of time to get the defect removed; needs to be done by the 3rd of June. Does anyone in Melbourne have a spare set of wheels lying around that I could borrow until I get the defect removed? Thanks. Marc.

Thanks for the feedback gents. I was considering rebuilding the box, not sure where to get syncro's from. I've got the manual for the box, more than happy to pull it down and replace bearings/syncro's. I used the L series bearing, but its 3rd gear that making all the noise. Would like to get my hands on another box so there's little down time and then look at rebuilding the current box so at least I have a spare. Was hoping to go to a few wreckers today but feeling a little seedy after the work Christmas party Would be really nice to get a T5 box or T5 bell housing from a 280zx turbo but I'd say they're pretty hard to come by here. Thanks again guys, appreciate the help!

Hi guys, Hope all of you are looking forward to the Christmas break! I'm not sure if I'm looking in the wrong places but I can't seem to find a S13 or S14 gearbox and when I do come across one, they're asking for top dollar and offering no warranty! Has anyone got any suggestions as to where I can source one? I've converted to the S13 box in my 240Z; the current box is still ok (just) but my syncro's are one the way out and 3rd gear under load sounds like a touring car If I'm not mistaken, I believe the S14 box is the better option as Nissan refined the design of the sandwich plate that stopped oil from pooling in the back of the box. If anyone can point me in the right direction, I would be grateful. Marc.