twoforty z

Thats the Nissan Cedric emblem. Weird its on a Zed

I have a spare original one if you are interested

240z carbs, http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/mount-waverley/engine-engine-parts-transmission/240z-carbs/1175892459?utm_source=com.samsung.android.app.memo&utm_medium=social&utm_campaign=socialbuttonsVIP&utm_content=app_android Fyi these are 42mm British Hs6 carbs

Ok these have arrived and look very nice, I have a limited number so first in best dressed (literally because your clothes will be hung up during your travels not lying in your boot) I have also seen these referred to as seat belt hooks? I will be supplying these with stainless screws to match. Price is $45 a pair, with screws posted within Australia First 2 pics are the product im supplying, other is an OEM part. I should have a side by side comparison photo of my product and an original by early next week Pm me if you'd like a set and ill give you payment details Thanks

Ive seen you throw a man, never heard him land. Legand has it he is still airborne

Is there a connection with the E31 head and 2400 covers? No Cedrics ever came with E31 heads, either E88 or N42s

Ive not seen any G130 models (came with L23 and then in 70-71 a L24) with the Nissan 2400 covers but i have seen the H130 (L20 engine) with a Nissan 2000 cover

No ac or electric windows. Gearbox is a 3 speed column shift auto

Ok peps im selling a car. Its isnt a Zed, but its cool as hell, L24 powered and would make a great cruiser. Can negotiate price for Auszcar members. http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/athol-park/cars-vans-utes/1970-datsun-cedric-2400-supersix/1174915750?utm_source=com.samsung.android.messaging&utm_medium=social&utm_campaign=socialbuttonsVIP&utm_content=app_android

Sold pending payment

Reduced price to $1600+postage

I was looking for early coat hanger knobs as the ones in my 71 240z have gone missing and i came across these. They are almost identical to original items, 19mm round and 12.5mm high, made from 316 stainless. These are not sold as 240z coat hanger knobs but im pretty sure it's what other people are selling as reproduction items. I was wondering who else might be interested in a pair before i order some for myself? They will be supplied with the correct screws and initial estimates are $40 a pair posted

Some may have noticed im selling my triple Mikuni 44s. These are Type 2 or sometimes called Type Q carbs and are the rare early style that came on Datsun roadsters and I believe what was offered in the Competition Catalogues. These came off a running L28 (unknown specs) but as always could do with a clean. Also comes with a bag of linkages. Price for AusZcar is $1800+ postage

So the 280z tach arrived. Bit of rust on the face but internals looked good. So i now have "Frankentacho" 240z housing 280z internals 260z face 240z needle. And it works! Fyi, 240z, 260z and 280z tach faces are all different. The spacing on 240z's is different to 260z's and 280z's "yellow" line at 6000rpm not 6500rpm but the spacing is the same as the 260z. And the 240z font is very very slightly smaller

Well ive tried 2 different tachs both same result. No guarantee these tachs were working when i bought them. Ive ordered a 280z tach that is triggered from the - of the coil so "should" solve my problem but id like to know why these tachs arent working. Would dwell angle or breaker point gaps have any effect of the signal through the tach? These are 2 things i havent checked yet

Also i believe both black and white wires are factory fitted as they both run through separate fittings that plug into the dash harness and both look original

They 12v i measured is before the resistor, not after. If i disconnect the 2nd b/w wire and use only the one that comes from the tach my car will still run but tach will still not work

Ok going to bring this back up because im going insane. My 1971 tach does not work. Period. Tach is looped through ignition, power from ignition switch (black white wire) loops through tach and then to + of coil. Tach has good 12v source and good earth 2x black/white wires at + of coil, both from same ignitiom power source, 1 is looped through tach, 1 is not. Both get 14v when running. Car will run when both plugged in or just 1 or the other. 1x green/white wire bypasses balist resitor for start up Have tried 2 different coils and 2 different tachs. Same result. Nothing Its a points distributor, all pretty much stock except 280zx alternator Any suggestions? What have i missed?

Looks like 185/75 from the pics

King Lows lower 30mm and are 165lbs amd 180lbs and are progressive (stated by Kings) Hope this helps. I have a set ill be trying after i found my Tokico springs too hard for street use

Which of my questions was stupid? You didnt state what block it was, you didnt state what head it was, you didnt state what pistons you used. If im going to spend 5k on an engine these are the things id like to know.

Don't see how flat top pistons and a compression ratio around 10 is a race engine. But ok. Good luck with the sale

So dished pistons?

What block is it? F54 N42? What head to? Whats the compression ratio? Any head work done or just reconditioned? Need some more info please

I recently did this in my 1971 240z while i had the dash out and was redoing my wiring. Bought an american flasher switch, bought a 12v flasher unit and plugged it into the green/white and blue/white spade connectors that come out of the dash harness with all the other plugs. Bingo bango bongo, hazards! Easiest mod ever, if only it was all that easy.