Howdy

Hey Rob, do you still have this driveshaft for sale?

Count me in.

For the record I measured a 260Z rack and the inner thread onto the rack is M25x1.0 not 1.25.

Wanted -A pair of 260Z sun visors. I lost mine. Also need one of the plastic triangular gaskets and screws.

Nice work Peter, I wish I had have seen this earlier when I replaced my CVs, never realized Holden were the same as 930s. Now I'll commit that to memory for next time then probably forget damit.

Just got a quote from the Dashboard Dr - now $850 and 8 to 10 week wait. How's that for inflation.

All sorted, no longer required

I need a RH tail light surround for a 2 seater 260Z. Doesn't have to be perfect as I will be painting it. May be interested in complete assembly if you can't separate. I am located in Melbourne.

Wow just fell across this forum, had no idea you Guys were into MTBs. I've been riding dirt for almost 20 years, Lysterfield mostly, 3 or 4 times a week. Have a 2020 Reign Advanced which I love. I ride most Friday, Sat & Sun mornings at Lysty (except when Sat school sport is on). Yell out if you ever want to hook up for a ride.

After a right hand rear 260z 55mm strut. Bare strut is fine just needs to be straight. FOUND ONE no longer wanted.

Peter, just jack the car up, remove the front springs and measure the toe change in the travel range around your ride height. You will find it is ridiculous and wonder what the Engineers were thinking. Each time the wheel climbs up that depression in the road the wheel moves up slightly causing toe out, steering you up the side, you correct it and the other side does the same up the other side and the party begins. I imagine the car is not too good under heavy braking when there are bumps. The skinny high profile tires will be helping the situation, would be much worse with low profile wide tires. The tie rod end needs to be lowered a fair bit to counter act it but you can get it down to zero over all but the extreme ends of the travel but, for me, I had to use rod ends and spacers which may not be legal on the road. Castor helps a lot but as long as you have this bump steer you will be fighting the wheel. Adding a little toe in might help counteract the toe out under bump to a point. I didn't see your wheel alignment settings, would be interested to know.

G'Day, I'm after at least 2 14x7 or 14X8 wheels to suit standard body S30. Any type but just on the off chance someone has some of these (Delta brand) that would be awesome.

G'Day I'm looking for the following parts: 260Z Right hand guard 260Z Radius rod 260Z Bonnet hinged type fiberglass

Great, can't wait to check your car out, absolutely love the build. Just read the speal re non flammable clothing, helmet, fire ext, seat belt etc. Bring a tire gauge, compressor if you have one (I have one you can use), plenty of fuel (I use about 80L usually), food drink, gopro, laptop, jack, tools?? I bring the kitchen sink because if I don't bring it I'll need it for sure.

Entry in, ready to go. Anyone want to share a garage? I'll try to get there early and grab one - $25 each. ZED83, what do you need? I got spare helmets, fire ex you can borrow.

These are very well run events, always plenty of track time to use your brake pads and fuel up. 20 min sessions, usually groups A to F, 100 cars max, minimum of 4 runs, only stopping to remove cars from sand traps etc. Any type of car can enter, from bog standard to GT3 cup cars (damn freaks of nature). Self scrutineering (yep that's correct - tick off a checksheet). I find the runs come around too quickly to be honest. If you want a garage get there early, most can fit 2 cars. I'm planning on going, probably will check the weather forecast 7 days out in case of torrential rain. Been playing with the fuel and boost maps again so will be using it to test that out and fine tune some more. Will be good to catch up with some of you Guys.

Welcome Mate, thaz a good year and a nice looking car. Enjoy.

Really sorry Jak, haven't been on here for a while. I have an FJ20ET 4cyl in a 260Z and reckon an SR20 would be just as easy. You will need to modify the rear gearbox mount to take the longer SR box, modify the shifter to get the gear knob in the right spot (I didn't need to cut the hole out) shorten the tailshaft and make up engine mounts. I used the existing holes towards the front of the block, usually mounting the aircon etc to mount thick steel plates then used 260z mounts, one standard and one slightly modified to mount to the stock spots on the cross member (I wanted to always be able to go back to standard).

Stupid me did the Tampered Strayaday trackday in 35 going on 50 deg heat in my car, 2000% humidity so the BBQ was in my car. Was a fun day, had a friend there with his Porsche mates so felt it was my duty to uphold the Z badge. Only got beaten by three GT3s club cars though, man they are quick through the turns but they couldn't pass on the straights - Ha suffer in ya jocks! Was almost 10KPH slower on the straights but managed to get a new PB of 1:20.4 so it was a good day. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=haDT3zxEQ9M

That'd be for the LD28 crank wouldn't it?

Nice work Gordo, love the color.

yep I reckon its a 240K box. As Lurch said, drain plug on the left, etc. All FJs I've seen have the higher shifter linkage flange where the pin goes through so you can drill a new hole further up and lengthen the bottom of the shifter to get short shift. Hey Dat2kman you don't happen to have a light flywheel for a FJ do you?

Who? what? ..... FREE BEER! Damn I'm too slow.

Me neither so I use a big cardboard box and an old electric bar heater. You can shove bars through the sides to hang stuff off and stick a thermometer through to keep track of the temp. Works great. I use a $20 sand blaster set up against a plastic tarp hung from the clothes line (or at my old house - against the garage door - outside). Then sweep up the sand, sieve it and use it again but you got to wear a good respirator, overalls, hat and eye protection. I add a small tube from the air line and pump it into my respirator to give positive pressure. The job sucks and you need a good compressor but it is handy to have at home when restoring a Z. Honestly if you go to the trouble to strip the parts make sure you don't use cheap $5 cans of enamel because it just wears off and dissolves when oil or fuel gets on it. As Brabham mentioned above, you can get it all done at a sandblaster - most have the facilities to epoxy straight after they blast to stop rusting. I can't see it costing more than 2 to 3 hundred bucks.

Sand blast, thin coat of epoxy primer then 2 pack color within 24 hrs so no need to sand. Bake in a big closed box with a heater but watch it doesn't catch fire. I have also sand blasted then sprayed 2 pack color directly on after blasting with no primer and it also worked perfectly. Both looked new 10 years later daily driving. The trick is to not go too thick so stones don't create big chips and the sand blasting creates an awesome surface for the paint to grip to.