DAZDA

Chris, I made mention of the National Code of Practice (NCoP) in the first line of this post. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,10912.msg109537.html#msg109537 I also noted in that post that I’m pretty sure (happy to be proven wrong), since vehicle registration is a state based service (if you can call it that), the states don’t have to follow the NCoP exactly. They can go above and beyond for example. So it pays to find your state's relevant requirements/legislation. Here are some of the Vic requirements, very similar to NCoP. http://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/Home/Registration/PermitsModificationsAndDefects/Modifications/NotifyingVicRoadsOfChangesAndModifications.htm

Sweet! Shows the beautiful lines of the Zed - roof to rear, wheel arches, bonnet, the long line/curve from the front guard to the rear guard, etc

The reason for climate change...

http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/vehicle_regulation/bulletin/vsb_ncop.aspx From that webpage; http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/vehicle_regulation/bulletin/pdf/NCOP3_Section_LA_Engine_01jan2011_v3.pdf Start reading... NOTE: I should add, that as far as I'm aware each state has it's own legislation in relation to vehicle registration, but that most of the states have similar requirements to the NCOP. See below... http://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/Home/Registration/PermitsModificationsAndDefects/Modifications/NotifyingVicRoadsOfChangesAndModifications.htm

I'm not sure if there are many Circuits, Tarmac Rallies, Hillclimbs, advanced driving schools, etc out near Orange/Dubbo, but if you're keen to learn about you and your car's limits have a read of this thread... Click here - 'Advice on getting started'

I dropped by to say 'Hello' but I could find you guys (off looking at some of the other vehicles I assume). Anyway, all the Zeds looked great, well done guys!!

Just heard it has been moved to Thoroughbred Park

Quoted for truth.

Does this mean you haven't put the spacer in?? Maybe you should do that. NOTE: Not having it in there may have damaged the diaphragm in the booster... OR If you are sure you're getting a vacuum to the booster (as below would suggest), and everything has been installed correctly (as per the factory manual) Then the remanufactured booster may not have been so well remanufactured...

Back onto the topic at hand; Yes - Carbon Tax from July (cost of parts for old cars, fuel will go up despite the government's promises - we know they don't mean much) and there will be more taxes Yes - Although it's disguised by being the other way around, in that pretend 'green' cars get cheaper rego in some states, and the gap in price will only get bigger http://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/Home/Registration/FeesFormsAndFAQs/Fees/VehicleRegistrationFees.htm Yes - Bound to happen. Just give the media and politicians enough time to brainwash society some more

You can't say that Al even if it is the truth, the Labor/Greens voters might get upset... The only comments I wish to make are; Fact - Plants absorb CO2 and H2O (water) and through a process called Photosynthesis produce an orgnic compound (food for the plant) and release O2 (Oxygen). This one is like the earth being round, it is a scientific fact. Surely with all that extra CO2 all the plants will love it, absorb more light and therefore cool the earth?? Won't that cool the oceans? But wait, the oceans are supposed to be warming, has anyone told all the plants!!! "The rate of energy capture by photosynthesis is immense, approximately 100 terawatts,[3] which is about six times larger than the power consumption of human civilization.[4]" - Sourced from here

You forgot $6.23 Carbon Tax...

By 240Z carburettors I assume you mean the Hitachi SU-Style carburettors Unless there is an actual fuel leak (split fuel line, hole in the tank, etc), excessive fuel consumption with these carbies is usually one of the following; Incorrectly adjusted needle tube height there is a big mixture adjustment knob under each carby. Generally, the closer the seat (needle tube) is to the needle the leaner the mixture will be overall, and vice versa. To get the mixtures 'right' like you can do with EFI would normally require different needle profiles (different needles) but you should be able to get it reasonably close with the adjustment knob Too much fuel getting past the needle and seat which is usually incorrectly adjusted float levels (too high) as Scoota G suggested Fuel Bowl(s) overflowing usually one of the floats is no longer floating. I have experienced this a few times with the brass floats. Replace the float with one that does, reset the float level and this should be fixed

Scott, I could be interested seeing as I live on the Southside. Obviously I wouldn't be able to confirm 'til much closer to the date. Cheers, Bede

A little more info about the event might help... From here: http://www.actmotorclubs.org.au/go/shannons-wheels-2008

+1 I use Castrol SAF-XA.

Sorry I couldn't make it (again) gents. Hopefully next time. The good news is I got the Zed back on the road yesterday, with much improved brake pedal feel.

I think Dat2kman’s point was that if you do the piston area calculations, and they come up very similar then you shouldn’t have any issues retaining the 7/8” master cylinder and therefore no need to listen to opinions on which is better. The reason is, some drivers prefer a harder pedal feel than others and not all custom setups are exactly the same (any slight misalignment between the calliper to disc will result in more fluid needing to be pushed and therefore a bigger master cylinder required), so you'll get differing opinions. Hopefully, someone who has a set of the standard callipers lying around and a set of the Hilux callipers can use some Verniers on the pistons to get the diameters, and put the results up here… According to this post click here, most of the S13W Hilux callipers have a 45mm piston diameter.

There is one on the steering rack (at least on mine there is…) Carefully lift the rubber boot, and then try to soak the old grease in oil or Metho, etc. After which turn the steering back and forth to help try to break up the old grease. Last resort - Compressed Air powered grease gun?? Might blow the rubber boot apart if they have perished though. The original universal joints in the factory half-shafts are greaseable, just remove the small (M7??) bolt and screw in a long grease nipple. Fill ‘til grease starts coming out the seals, remove the nipple and replace the small bolt. Repeat at both ends of each half-shaft. The uni joints in the tailshaft can also be greaseable. That’s about all I found on my 240Z…

EBC is a TLA (Three Letter Acronym) for 'Sh*t'. EBC are the worst pads I have ever used, co-efficient of friction felt like it was 0.001 for all temperature ranges. I have had good results with Ferodo DS3000 in the rally car, and resonable results with Bendix Ultimates at trackdays.

As Peter has suggested, joining a club is a good idea. But before going head first into competition, I recommend doing an Advanced Driver Training Course with a driving school at one of the race tracks. For a few more bucks than a 'Speed of the Streets' day, this will offer lots of benefits, including; A greater understanding of what may be required to get involved – the instructors should be able to give some advice on how to get involved, which categories may suit you, etc Skills, tips, tricks, and principles on driving fast The correct lines for that track and advice on how to work them out for other tracks Suggestions on car set-up and improvements etc I can strongly recommend Fifth Gear Motoring’s advanced courses ( click here ) at Wakefield Park.

Here's a replay for you Chris... Sorry I couldn't make it.

If you aren't new to this internet thing, then perhaps you could have structured your post a little better by letting us know that at the start. For example... "Having done a search, there appears to be some contradiction. Could any of you guys please confirm the correct part numbers for Koni Yellows for a 240Z (and mods required) or the right people to contact. The results of my search have found the following part numbers; Front - XXXXXXXXXX or XXXXXXXXXXXX (with XX mm spacers required) Rear - XXXXXXXXXXX or XXXXXXXXXXXX (with XX mm spacers required) On a side note, when I joined this site I got smashed for not introducing myself, posting something that was viewed as promoting a business (because of my signature), etc. And yet you guys are happy to let vague and possibly repetitive posts like this slide... FTW!!! It's like, smash the newbies but if you've been here for a while you can post whatever you like. At least be consistent!! NOTE: custommade this is NOT directed at you. This is a general comment about the forums, so don't get your knickers in a knot. Flame away. I'm a relative newbie anyway, so prove me right.

No offence intended custommade, but the search function is there for a reason... I gave it a go and came up with these two threads pretty fast. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,8653.msg82363.html#msg82363 http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,3948.msg35821.html#msg35821