DAZDA

millimeters (inches)

Finally made it to an event (I'm sure Chris was starting to think my car didn't actually exist). Not sure where I was for the group photo, but I certainly wasn't getting donuts... Probably looking at the Renault Alpine!

Going straight to John Knight Park. See you there.

Congratulations on saving all the $$$ on a rebuild. Oh and thanks for making me look like a fool. As you said, most people pull off all the anti-emission gear on the early Rotary Engines, so most Rotary nuts (including me) even most of the 'gurus' haven't encountered issues with the emission control equipment. Anyway, may you happily rotor on for a long time.

Or Both. Based on this comment, I'd suggest the oil control seals are on their way out.** It's unusual for an external leak into the exhaust to cause that much smoke to be burnt. Rebuilds are expensive because of the labour (same with piston engines, but perhaps less time intensive???) The SR20DET will cost significantly more than 1.5k once you do all the conversion (there are lots of posts on here about ballooning costs with conversions). I don't think there is a cheap, easy, simple, reliable answer for you, sorry. A variation on "Cheap, Fast, Reliable" in this case "Cheap, Simple, Reliable - choose any two. " If it was me, and assuming I had the time I'd rebuild it, if I didn't have the time I'd see if I could pick up a cheap second-hand 12A engine off Ebay. It's pot-luck but I could probably buy several for the price of a rebuild and one of them is bound to be fine. ** I reserve the right to be completely wrong

Thanks Chris!!!

The splines on mine didn't look like that... Admittedly mine are a few years old now. Could the outer CV cage have damaged the splines somehow at full defection (max shaft angle and/or max plunge)

QFT. And what you are planning on doing with it, daily driver, weekend track warrior, or all-out track weapon? If it's just a daily driver, King springs (or any of the other off the shelf, slightly stiffer and lower springs - Lovell, Pedders, etc) should be fine. If it's a weekend track warrior then consider custom springs. And if it's an all-out track weapon then coil-overs are the way to go.

I'm about a 60-70% chance at this stage. For those who are more than likely to attend, someone should work out the approximate number of attendees (AusZcar) and contact the organisers...

From a racing point of view - whatever makes the best use of your tyres (temperatures & wear rates). Seriously, it depends on a few things... Weight of the car and spring rates Personal preference (high speed stability, easy to turn in, etc.) Track conditions Your aim should be to find the right compromise for optimising the overall tyre wear (across all aspects braking, cornering and acceleration!). As a starting point ONLY and is fairly generic (static at normal ride height); Front Toe: 0 to 2mm Toe In Camber: -2° to -3.5° Castor: 3° to 6° Rear Toe: 2 to 4mm Toe In - depends a lot on personal preference Camber: -1° to -2.5°

No need for Fork oil (unless you are rebuilding the actual shocks). ATF should be fine - it's only to assist with heat transfer from the shock to the strut tube anyway.

Thread from the dead! Recently bought some stuff from Techno Toy Tuning, there was a small problem with one of the items, however Gabriel & Gai quickly fixed the problem and sent me replacement parts at no cost to me. Fantastic customer service, can't recommend them enough!!! My only complaint is that everything I got was non-metric (usually the case with items made in the US).

I'm going to try and make it too.

Quoted for Truth! For those in the South Eastern NSW region (Sydney, Wollongong, Canberra, Goulburn, etc), I strongly recommend the Fifth Gear Motoring Advanced Driving Course/Trackdays *Click Here* They have one coming up on the 11th of October!!

I don't know if anyone is interested but thought I'd post it... http://actmotorclubs.wordpress.com/events/marques/

Another one coming up!

The team at Fiftth Gear Motoring have another Track Day coming up on the 13th of September! For about the price of a new race tyre* and worth every cent! For example; Which corner is the most important on any race track? a) the fastest corner b) the corner at the end of the longest straight c) the corner leading onto the longest straight d) the slowest corner e) none of the above Questions like this and many more are just the start of what is covered in their Track days! * Individual tyre prices vary and therefore may not be used as a direct comparison.

I thought about not sharing the info, since some people on here are less than polite... But seeing as it was you asking Scott, I decided it was the least I could do.

There is always something like this; http://velo.com.au/itemdetailspage/31987 Or if you want it adjustable; http://velo.com.au/itemdetailspage/31988

I could be interested in a group buy if they are still making them.

Emotion is too easily applied we people sell stuff. Everyone wants to get more money when they sell but pay less when they buy. Sadly is doesn't work like that. Let's use some market research (AKA facts), based on other S30 tarmac rally/circuit cars for sale; http://www.my105.com/ListingDetails/tabid/65/p/1/k/240Z/id/326/Default.aspx http://www.my105.com/ListingDetails/tabid/65/p/1/k/260z/id/7611/Default.aspx http://www.my105.com/ListingDetails/tabid/65/p/1/k/240z/id/2299/Default.aspx It looks like Jason has priced the car about right for the higher end of the market. For a car with the specifications, proven results, and speed, that is fair. I'm sure Jason knows that 'something is only worth what someone will actually pay for it'. If he can't shift it at his current asking price he has three options; wait for someone who will pay the asking price (depends how quickly he needs to sell) remove it from sale (depends how much he wants to sell it) or drop the price Regardless of all this, it's Jason's choice. So let's let the man sell his very nice race car.

Jason, I'm happy to wait for the Categories/Classes (and I certainly understand why I have to wait and the effort put in by organisers), I'm just disappointed with the reaction on here to me asking the question...

I asked a perfectly reasonable question about which SuperSprint rules were likely to be used (so I can start getting my car sorted) and suddenly this has turned into a criticism of people chasing trophies. IMO this is exactly the piss poor attitude regularly shown on these forums. Any opportunity to have a crack at someone or go on a witch-hunt is enjoyed by many on here. There are plenty of examples, the increasing engine torque thread which got heavily moderated, the number of times Peter Mac has threatened to never post again, etc. It’s a sad reflection on all of us (as members of these forums) that this place is so harsh. *Puts on Flame-suit* Flame away and prove me right.

Apparently mine has been canceled too. :'( Sorry.

Obviously the aim is for as many people as possible to have a run and have fun. The problem is, generally vehicle rules are so grey. If someone puts a standard unmodified L26 or L28 into a standard 240Z does that mean you have to run in the 'Modified' cars that are engineered/registered road cars with modern engines?? I’m really not that fussed, despite how my posts may seem. I’m just trying to make sure any minor improvements I make to my car (for example, new seats or TCAs, etc) don’t suddenly change which category I’m in. So knowing the likely vehicle rules now will help me decide what (if any) changes to make.