Wayne G

How nice would I have to be for you to post the steering wheel to me?

Just remember to pull the rag out!!!!!

I would be keen enough to travel from Brisbane for this sort of session!

Hi premo, I am looking at doing similar conversion using handbrake setup from r33na and z32 brakes. The reason for selecting these parts is that I have them left over from various conversions, so they are free! I will be looking closer at how to mount the handbrake plate soon. I have not held all the pieces together yet but I am thinking it will need a piece of plate steel, which convienently will also mount the calliper. When I get the chance I will upload photos of the "problem" and maybe you can think of better idea. Cheers

If you don't already have them, get yourself a set of 3/8 drive wobble extension bars and shallow, mid and deep sockets in 6 point configuration in appropriate sizes. There are many approaches however years in workshops taught me that, whilst less comfortable to work on, exhausts tend to undo much easier when the engine is hot. This is for a combination of factors that I won't bore you with but if doing this way get gloves and long sleeve shirt!

A very long time ago, 15 years ago or so, I changed an l20 out for 2nd hand engine, from 200b into 720 ute. I noticed the difference between the two filter mounts, and seem to recall that it was to clear the steering mechanism. I don't recall there being any issues changing it over, but as I said, it was a long time ago.

I have 2 Z32 units already and if I can fit the entire brake system from the same vehicle the approval is merely paying for the engineer cert after they make sure the workmanship is OK.

Guys I am in QLD so tell me to be quiet, but an engineers cert is inexpensive here, and that is if the girls at transport even notice. I only paid $100 for my last one and that included brakes, engine, diff, gearbox and suspension. (R33) The ADR are available from COMLAW.ORG however they do not address what you are talking about, the national code of practice covers vehicle modifications in QLD and I assume that national means that, national. It is QLD though, we have strange law makers. I have both on disc, PM for offsite backup. Where you come unstuck is when the engineer makes you comply with the emmision control for the vehicle the engine is sourced from, when going to newer model engine. As I type this I wonder, what emmision controls are there on the patrol? Being commercial type I would expect much less.

best news in this entire thread

It was owned by an elderly gent who is terminally ill. Asked me more questions than I asked him ie what my intentions were for his car. It was advertised locally and what tipped the scale in my favour was that I was the only person who contacted him! About time some good fortune went my way.

I paid more than $10! I got it for $500. What was not listed was that there was most all the small bits from another entire car, bonnet, hatch, diff, crossmember suspension etc. There are five boxes I have not opened yet so no idea what else I got. Lots of trim, which is what I need for my 2 seater. It looks like most of the bits I need are actually loose as parts in boxes! Oh and when I opened the bonnet, a 1.4m long carpet python! curled up on the inlet manifold under the fuel rail I have five days off from wednesday so may get to have a better look(after lawns, gutter mesh on to house, attach carbs and tune motorcycle, timing belt on v6 hilux for brother, cv's for mate, ....... ). The first glance shows that it could probably be saved so don't know what the final result for it will be.

well spotted shan, thanks. made him a silly offer and now it is in my yard. sweet!

I am not an L series expert however it is normal for head gaskets to act as restrictors in water galleries near the water pump. This aides in a more even flow to all of the cylinders. Without it the water ends to take the easiest path and the rear cylinder runs significantly hotter than the front cylinder. Having said that, a good wad punch and piece of wood will make the hole the same size, but I would leave it. On a side note, the piston in number one is showing signs of oil wash(it is clean of carbon on the exhaust side of the piston crown). If you are not going to refresh the bottom end make sure you clean and remove the raised carbon deposits from the crowns.

Has anyone actually installed a late model nissan brake booster into their 240/260? I have a selection of nissan passenger vehicle boosters but will likely use a z32 unit so that complying the eventual brake upgrade of z32 callipers front and rear, which I already have along with a handbrake solution, is cheap and easy, not requiring to pass a brake test. I stripped my 260 the other night and discovered the bolt pattern on the z32 booster is different. I have formulated a plan but thought "those who ignore history are destined to repeat it". I have located threads on calliper and handbrake mods but not booster mods, other than GM units. Anyone?

That looks like unburnt oil as opposed to fuel. What is your oil consumption like? what sort of oil and what colour and when does it smoke? A compression test may help but the accurate test is a leak down test. You are not far from me and I happen to have a leak down tester. PM me. Alternatively do a compression test and record results then inject some oil, about 50ml, and redo compression test. Inject the oil into one cylinder and then test that cylinder and repeat with the next cylinder, do not inject all cylinders and then test because that is very messy! If there is a large improvement in result then your piston rings not sealing well, if not then oil coming in some other way ie diluted in sump, valve stem seals, crankcase ventilation etc.

If the engine is missing from the z, get the merlin? Now that whould "fly"!

What a spectacularly luck b@5tard you are!!!! I am pretty sure that I saw this vehicle advertised some time ago on an auction as a package deal, sort of buy both and make one. Good luck and hope it is a good car!

if you don't mind sharing the information you have paid for, the part numbers would be handy.

When the master cylinder bypasses internally you get a soft pedal and no fluid loss however because the pedal came good once cooled down it indicates heat related issue ie fluid boil. maybe the brake are lightly dragging?

There is one advertised on ebay, but it is in QLD.

Thanks for the console Peter. Your car looks good, I hope mine comes out as well.

At the risk of being flamed, is that the oil filter bypass valve? Meant to open when the filter blocks maintaining some oil pressure to the engine?

Love your sense of humour

Did you get the car sorted? What did you find?

The chev, if it is 350 or any big block, would be worth more than the car, even if needs rebuild! If you don't have much money in your wallet it may be worth stripping.