Wayne G

for a street car the drums are probably fine, however the impression ratio is dramatically improved by rear disc brakes. That is why I am going to eventually do the conversion. Hoppers stoppers is a bolt on kit. They typically use commodore or falcon parts. Reading the instruction you posted it appears that they are adapting the rear brakes from ford falcon/mustang. DAT2kMAN told me about putting the ford rear brakes on a while ago and he may be able to provide you advice and importantly save you money.

I bought one on flea bay delivered for $45 and another member of this site sent me one for free. Somewhere in between I guess

Hi Peter maybe try surplus bearings, in Randal St Kingston last time I used them. They carry a lot of new old stock at reasonable prices. I purchased two CR speedy sleeves for less than the price that others were quoting for one. Cheers Wayne

In the third generation of ADR there is a general safety rule, possibly ADR42, however due to the age of the vehicle you are building it does not apply. You must comply with national code of practise which basically is good engineering practise and "it looks right" tests, which are both somewhat subjective to the assessor. The bigger hassle is complying with the emission standard applicable to the engine meaning catalytic converter, charcoal canister, vapour control fuel tank, non vented fuel cap and closed loop oxygen sensor engine management. Having said all that, this is the situation in Qld; I don't know what the rules are for the latte set down south

thanks guys. I am thinking something like Dale's extended grill and smooth out the transition from the headlight bucket to the front indicator with 240 guards so no indicator on side. Clean.

Whilst sanding my rust bucket my mind wanders to what the future holds ...... Does anyone have picture of 240 or 260 without front and or rear bumpers and no other body kit installed? I am thinking of just leaving the bars off and smoothing the lines. I have done a cursory search of this site and web but have not located a good photograph. I have seen plenty of rear shots but not a front shot of a standard but bumperless Z, though plenty of bumperless Z with body kits.

ditto what peter said. either use laminated steel or a graphite gasket.

coil inside distributor. Try strip and wipe clean as a patch or back to wrecker

most modern vehicles that have 4x114 PCD should fit unless you are also increasing the rotor diameter dramatically. Do your brake swap then take a front strut assembly to your local wrecker and 'go shopping'

Leak down tester is much more accurate however oil and compression test is a good guide. Don't forget that the valves are partially open at top dead centre one of the two times the piston is there so make sure that you are testing it at the time it would spark! There are reasons for low compression other than rings or valves and in some circumstances a small loss is acceptable and may even rectify itself with a decent run especially if the engine has not been worked for sometime.

http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,9877.0.html

http://www.zbitz.com.au/ very helpful bloke, try all the numbers because he does it part time. Works Archerfield way. alternatively try Dave Morgan engine and parts supplies, Bethania 3805 6662

maybe he means he is limited to what is in his super

I had a ute that was hit by someone causing about $8000 worth of damage when that would buy another average similar ute. I pointed out all of the mods (exhaust, induction, suspension, fuel system, stereo, uhf plus the typical 4wd bolt ons) and the assessor said "yeah? so what?" However his attitude changed when I informed him that they were all listed on the policy and counted towards the value of the ute. Instead of being screwed by an insurance company by no fault of my own they fixed the ute for me. If the illegal mod can be deemed to contribute towards the cause of the claim or the vehicle is substantially different from what they thought you told them it was then the dramas start.

The rear end conversion looks great, as does the whole project. A better way to maintain appropriate clutch cover to throw out bearing distance is to space the throw out bearing towards the clutch cover. Much safer with less dangerous forces involved. Just my two cents worth. Keep up the great work.

There should be an additional wire to the positive coil terminal supplying 12v when engine is cranking only. This wire usually runs from a terminal on the starter motor(there are a few ways of doing it) and helps with starting issues however, if the car starts and runs nice, leave it alone.

Some picture of the score marks may help as very light scoring is not a problem. As mentioned, spin the oil pump with a drill. It is far less messy than running the engine without the cover on. Has the engine had first service after rebuild? This would include a retension of the head gasket and then reset valve clearance, timing check and general check over.

Go to bed and sleep on it

What chassis and body?

IMHO you have a reversion issue and the cheapest and easiest way to fix reversion and maintain performance is to tune the exhaust size. Whilst the diameters may be correct, secondary pipe length and merge style have a significant impact on power and torque curves. You may find that a smaller primary or secondary pipe diameter may reduce total power slightly but prevent the reversion or move it to a RPM range that does not impact the driveability of the vehicle. Find an exhaust expert. Peter Mac can probably assist with advice or a contact.

Dave could help. He is at Bethania and parts engines out. ENGINE & PARTS SUPPLIERS 3805 6662

Just pay someone to set up your carbs correctly! I have used these Weber DVG before with some success but you are unlikely to improve from what you have with these Webers and it will require someone to set them up once installed, so pay someone to set up your carbs correctly. I know some trustworthy local people to us Peter so pm if you want their contact details.

be original, try a pink or bright yellow! I did my mini engine bright yellow when I was an apprentice and it was the best thing when the damn thing broke down at night, light up the whole engine bay with small torch!

r33 turbo box wont but the n/a version may

Chassis crushed like that should not be an issue, providing that the rails are intact ie not full of rust/bog etc. The radiator support panel however needs to be straightened, even if just for appearance. I wish my 2 seater had only those issues!!!!!!!