260DET

Seems like the clutch throwout for my Tremec five speed is completely different to the six speed one, phoned Mal Wood to get the right one which is made by Quarter Master, didn't ask the price because at a certain stage of a build you give up trying to budget and just get on with it. Besides, old mate Mal is competitive with his prices and knows this stuff backwards. Flywheel and clutch are now bolted up, the Xtreme clutch kit came with ARP flywheel bolts which are not the stretch-to-yield type like the GM ones. Wonder why that type is used at all, must be cheaper or something. Clutch will just fit in the bell housing according to some rough measurements, it looks impressive, almost a pity to hide it in the bell. Once the throwout arrives I will be able to move on towards the engine/box installation, everything else that I am going to do is pretty well finished. Sneaky problems excepted of course.

Yeh I should have resisted Jason's bait but was wetting myself laughing and after a few Friday arvo beers........... Anyway, on topic, as I explained the crank scraper was not snug on the studs so a repeatable 100% reliable fit could not be guaranteed even if the windage tray was not used. I've had enough of engine problems in the past so 100% reliability is the goal. Essentially, it came down to either fitting the scraper by itself with 99% certainty or fitting the windage tray with 100% certainty, certainly not both which was the original aim. Given that the modded windage tray is a good piece and likely to do more than the scraper anyway the final decision was easy. The lesson is perhaps don't just assume that a bought piece will fit, check it critically for fit and function.

Hi Jason, that time of the month again? Just to clarify things, the car is being built by me for me, not to please you or anyone else. On lap times, well as we know I've already gone way faster around Lakeside than you and I see that Nev did a mid 58 the other day at the lake, beaten only by some Porker turbo thing. Some get out there and do real times, others just bitch

Dan has performed pretty well faultlessly, in F1 that really something. But Vettel will be back and it will make the team mate contest more interesting, at the moment Seb can't take a trick. Of dear, how sad

Wow, sharp looking car

It can be a pain but it's all part of building a car isn't it, part of the challenge that eventually makes the car yours. As someone said, if you didn't build it then it's not yours. I like that. Was thinking, it's good in some ways to go from turbo to NA. Not having to have a big IC up front simplifies cooling arrangements and should open up aero options up front. I like aero, particularly the inconspicuous stuff that works.

OK, you want more sump pictures eh, the story first though. It was the Improved Racing crank scraper which was hitting and after several attempts to fix it gave up and put the sump on without it. Two problems with the scraper, the first being that it does not fit snug over the bolts so it's located precisely, the second is that it sits under the stock windage tray so it's impossible to see where it's hitting. We're talking small clearances between the scraper and the crank, precise location is a must in that situation, slack Yanks. Why do engine changes take longer than you think? Here is an example involving the power brake vacuum line from the engine. Firstly, different size hose which requires a reducer, try getting one of those to suit from Repco or Supercheep. Ebay to the rescue, again, together with some nice silicone blank off caps for the engine's heater hose outlets. Not those rubber ones that last six months if you are lucky. Second problem, the vacuum outlet on the inlet manifold points to the L while of course it has to go to the R. So order two 90 degree fittings and a connector, Ebay again. Saves so much time and money trying to chase up stuff on the phone when mostly if it does not come within 'make and model' so a day is wrecked driving around. Engine and box should be back in within a few days, can't beat progress that you can see. Now for the pics you have been dying to see

Great minds eh, I built up a 260Z with a FJ20ET almost 20 years ago, at the time it was a damn quick car compared with what else was around. Feel safe in saying now that mine would have owned yours because it was sold about five years ago

Yep it all fits Phill, the Improved adaptor bolts in place of the factory blank off. Put all this stuff on the L side to make the R side as clear as possible for exhaust stuff. Accusump suits a wet sump setup Jake, will try and get pics of it all installed in due course.

So what's the story there?

Sump has been welded at long last, had to get the face milled because it warped a bit despite being bolted down during welding. Have made a start to get to the stage where the sump can be put back on, nothing simple here. First of all, after cleaning everything of course, fitted all the bits and pieces to the sump itself, yep this is no ordinary sump. Starting with the sump well cover which had it's gap to the sump opened out a bit to improve oil flow back, see arrow on pic. Then for the present cap the drain down inlet and the vent outlet and fit the oil temp sender. Then comes the Improved Racing adaptor which provides in and out connexions for the thermostatically regulated oil cooler and the Accusump together, as well as a port for the oil pressure gauge sender. Used an old Datsun fitting to locate that sender out of the way, handy things those old Datsuns The final job was to fit the sump gasket. What? The metal/plastic gasket actually is fixed to the sump face by two pop rivets, is that too cool for school? OK, sump done. Clean and fit the aftermarket crank scraper with the standard windage tray to go on top of that. Opened up the louvres in the tray so it could catch flying oil more effectively, see pic. Stopped there, seems like the scraper is hitting the crank or something, enough excitement for one day.

Appreciate the advice Phill, a retune will just be part of whatever upgrades/changes are decided on after the car has done some laps, there are sure to be other things too. Am sure I've seen a pic of a LS starter with the solenoid on the side but that's about it, seen so much LS stuff lately................. As a matter of interest, any idea of what speed yours is capable of down Conrod Straight? Any plans to go with a lighter 4 or 5 speed box?

Z is road registered Phill so it can be used for sprints and certain other Q classes but sprints do me, the only restriction is under CAMS at Bathurst where only regularity is allowed. Which does not stop a pedal to the metal run down Conrod Straight of course Car has a haft cage plus some discreet body bracing eg to the firewall. While I think of it, what 5th, 6th gearbox ratio and diff ratio do you use? Air intake will be similar to what worked with the turbo engine, a big K&N filter boxed into the front L corner of the engine bay behind the L headlight which has extra holes around it. Yes, fitting collectors on the R is going to be a problem which the pro will sort out, have already made a heat shield for the starter which is the solenoid on top type. An underdrive balancer, cams etc are scheduled to be done later. I'm being crowded for time and the Z has to be driveable ASAP.

Looking forward to showing up at PI again Gordon that's for sure, it will be a bonus if I can generate some commitment to have a proper go though.

Has there been a post race going on? Just remember, quantity does not always translate to quality

No pics today, still waiting for the sump welding to be finished off, apparently welding these cast sumps is not the easiest aluminium welding job around. Held up now, all the engine bay and related stuff is done so engine installation time is being delayed. Lots of mundane detail stuff has been done, like welding in attachment points for a triangular strut brace which now can go back to the firewall because it will all clear the LS. These things really are a nice, practical package.

Damn good work Phill, getting serious I see with a full cage and all. What's with the single exhaust pipe, last car I remember it was 3" twins which incidentally I'm told is best for power. Some in car videos coming up soon?

Or doing it this way a final panel can be made without going through the buck making step. Use other materials instead of modelling clay if necessary. I like boxed in mudguards, like in the op picture, which could be based on a large shaped foam block. As far as importing a kit goes, Kameiri in Japan do/did a kit which might be able to be brought in by one of the AU businesses that do that sort of thing. But first things first, engine change project and other things have to be done first.

Thanks for that info Simon. Yeh the kit would suit the V8 sound Gareth but my wallet is suffering from big spender shock at the moment so it will have to wait. Time too. So Phill, yours is back going again? Here is a technique for making a body kit/flares moulds, I have not tried it but it sounds interesting. Cover the guards with alfoil, lay one coat of 600 cloth over that. Cut and glue foam blocks to the 600 cloth in the rough shape required. Shape blocks to the required form. Cover blocks with two layers of matt fibreglass then with body filler or other suitable material so a smooth finish can be done. Remove after a few days, there are your moulds.

Thanks Kiwi Bloke aka Mike That UK kit looks a bit different, similar but not the same. It would be OK but I really like the one in my pic not that there is any rush.

Yeh I used a set of NT01's, they are OK but maybe try the Achillies first? Don't worry about Matt, he is concerned about how quickly you are getting close to his handling car's times

Thanks Kiwi bloke.

Like this one, it looks doable and practical from a DIY perspective. Three pieces per side, with the door piece grafted on to a stock door it looks like, might have a go at it next year. Assuming the kit would be no longer available.

Link to the results site, just click on racing http://racing.natsoft.com.au/results/#2 Gresham and Ian Solomon are very experienced drivers in good cars so you did bloody well in the Treefiddy Jake, top marks. And the same for you Lee, Z cars winning and kicking euro backside Z Car Club is CAMS affiliated and lots of members run at Morgan Park. So plenty of support and help if something goes wrong, plus the social scene is good for those who make a weekend of it at Warwick. My plan is to register for the series next year, looking forward to it.

Yeh, 2008 is pretty ancient for track tyres. Never used tyre softener myself but what's to lose I guess, someone else here will probably have some experience with it though. You seem to be breaking yourself into sprints pretty well Lee, we all started as newbs don't forget.