KatoKid

Update time. Finally got the rotisserie built and got the car up on it. Its so good to be able to flip it over to work on it! And before Lurch or anyone else jumps on me, yes I still have to add the tie bar between the front and rear pivots. Thought I would be clever and bought 2 x $99.00 Chinese engine stands with the idea that I would just add some height and width to these as it would be cheaper than buying all the steel and wheels from scratch. Turns out the Chinese engine stands use 60x60 RHS and we only have 65x65 RHS in Aus so ended up building most from scratch in 65 and only used the pivots/plates and wheels. Used 50x50 Duragal for the chassis mounts cos I had it lying around. Its nice to see the underside in good daylight and refreshing to really confirm condition of the floor pans. Next on the list is to remove the sound deadening on the inside, has anyone tried the dry ice method as opposed to a heat gun. Any feedback apprecited. David.

Thanks Camo. Guys over here can make from scratch too but big $$$. BTW, I posted on Hybridz and have had two responses from guys with "rust free" doors. Just waiting on pics and prices. David

Thanks for the tip Gareth. Something I forgot to ask...are all 240 doors the same? I know there are differences in later 260's.

Guys...need two doors for a 240. Panel beater says mine are too far gone and he wont touch none genuine door skins as he reckons they never fit well enough.... and they're more work than fixing a half decent door. Having said that I'm keen to hear any feedback on fit and quality of door skins either from Rare Spares or Warren at All Z spares. So looking for both sides, obviously wont find any without some rust but prepared to pay good money for the right doors. Thanks. David.

When I purchased my 240 I knew it had some previous accident damage on the RHF corner, nothing serious enough to bend the chassis rails or anything structural. Damage was restricted to the skirt from just behind the radiator support panel forward. The "top rail" that also acts as an air duct for the interior is creased just at the point where it narrows down as is all the skirt that supports the headlight bucket and bonnet hinge etc. It had been pulled out and repaired previously but its a bit rough and really needs to be fixed properly. Ive had advice form a panel beater that the best thing would be to cut and replace from another car so I'm looking for the right hand front section of the skirt and possibly radiator support panel to graft onto my car. Its OK to have some rust as long as its straight. Thanks. David

Mine has an ADR plate and its dated 4/71. The original guards have had steel plates welded over the fender mirror holes.

I'm keen for the RB sump, is it a modified Patrol sump? Pics please and price. Is the RB conversion kit CRS and how much? Thanks. David.

Old school.....very cool!

I'm facing the same dilemma, my car is originally mustard and I know they can look good if the body work and paint is pristine and I really want to preserve the value of the car. I'm tempted to repaint in the original colour with the hope that everything old becomes new again IE fashionable. I think paint colours go through cycles and I believe we are on the cusp of these old colours coming back into favour. Cross fingers anyway.

Ditto for me, I could repair mine but if they are a good fit I would prefer to go new. Does anyone know where Warren sources his from (Black Dragon or MSA etc) and how are they for quality and fit?

Unfortunately not for sale! While there is little doubt regarding the increasing value of early 240's I can see a time when 2+2's will be nearly as desireable/collectable, especially if its original and got all the fruit. Car was advertised on carsales.com for quite a few months, PO had many lookers but no one ready to come up with the what he was asking, to the point that he had taken it off the market due to the frustration of dealing with tyre kickers. I had been looking for over 12 months and paid $10K which I know is over the odds but it was too good to pass up and I'm sure it will be a good investment.

They are out there. Purchased mine 6 months ago and its pretty much the same as Lynton's.... 77 2+2, metallic blue, white interior, 5 spd and air con. Its very original and more importantly came with original rego plates, owners manual and documentation. Its had a repaint some time ago which wasn't great and no doubt hides some rust in a few areas like dog legs but otherwise its pretty good. The only thing missing is the air con condenser for some reason....hasn't had an accident in the front so no clue as to why. It has been fitted with 240 round top carbs and extractors but I'm not concerned as flat tops and cast manifold are easy to find. I wanted a 2+2 as Ive got a young daughter and wanted to have a car we all could enjoy. Since buying the 2+2 Ive come across an early 240 http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,6400.0.html that has taken priority so the 2+2 is a weekend driver that I will keep as original as possible. Good luck with the hunt.

Bluerat, Still want to do a tough NA RB30DE or even a M3 if I can find one. Ive had KTM's for many years and wanted something different, since KTM bought Husaberg they've really made a difference. The Burg is all KTM except the actual frame design. Even the cylinder head and gearbox internals are mostly pirated bits from the KTM parts list. Should hook up for a ride if your local.

Progress report... Mechanically the car was complete when I purchased it so before I pulled the engine thought I would check what condition it was in. Changed the oil, pulled the plugs and cranked it over for a while to get some oil pressure and fuel to the carbs, refitted the plugs and she started straight away and ran really well. Not bad after 17 years. Couldn't drive it though as the brake MC had no fluid in either circuit. Anyway, pulled the engine and gear box last week. The front edge of the shifter opening in the trans tunnel had been enlarged by about 100mm which suggested it had a later gearbox installed, and sure enough the oil filler is on the left hand side so probably a 280 box??? Then I did a bit of a double take when I saw the tailshaft with two slip joints! Cant say Ive ever seen this before so unless Nissan had some weird tailshaft theories going on I'm guessing that the car was originally equipped with a 71A box with the flange and to fit the later box someone has taken the flange off the front universal and fitted the slip yoke in its place resulting in what you see below. If universal joints the same size then its possible. Car is 2/71 and chassis 728, is this early enough to have a 71A fitted from factory? Any comments appreciated. She's basically stripped now and once the front and rear suspension is out its time for the rotisserie. Fuel, handbrake and brake lines will be removed on the rotisserie. Cheers. David.

If as per John's comments then count me in. Would need a document drawn up to support it. Great initiative Mark.

I'm thinking of going as well...curiosity is a bitch!

In a similar vein..... this has been around for a while so apologies if you've seen it before. Gotta admire someone with the guts to take this on. http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4515333 Giddy up!

Just had to wipe down my keyboard....drooled all over it. I officially have TBI envy and Mike and Dimitri are to blame.

Adam. My 240 is Australian delivered, plated 2/71 with chassis # 728. It has cargo straps and Masonite spare wheel cover. Cant vouch for the carpet though. David

Ive got contacts on both east and west coast too. Let me know where it is. David

Anyone got a pick of an original mirror??

Photos....

Went to the PO's place last night to pick up the doors and rear hatch that I couldn't take with me when I picked up the car. Rear hatch is pretty good, just one small rust hole in the window channel. Door frames are good but skins will be required. Bonus time.....the deal included an old engine that was under the PO's house, he didn't know much about it and I hadn't even looked at it. We pulled it out and when I got home I compared the numbers on the data plate...bingo they match, so Ive got the original engine! Head is an E31 casting, from what I read these are sought after??? Engine hasn't had a sump on it but inside the crankcase isn't rusty and it turns freely so will crack it open and see what I find inside. David.

Great to catch up and finally put faces to names. What date for the next one? David

Still weighing up options.......RB25DET is easy power but the more I get involved with Z's the more I appreciate the history so I'm leaning towards a tough RB25DE with TBI like you did. Even better would be a RB30DE. If you're going to the BBQ tomorrow would like to hear your thoughts on what was good about the RB25DE combo and why you didn't stay with it. David