KatoKid

Hi all. I had to pull the fuel tank from my car as I had a problem with the sender and luckily I did as the rubber gasket I had make was badly damaged by the petrol. I had bought some rubber sheet from Purple Pig which they recommended for fuel and I think it was nitrile but it obviously wasn't robust enough. Instead I'm thinking of going with good old fashioned cork but have no idea where to buy small sheets. Any suggestions on where to buy appropriate cork or good fuel resistant rubber gasket material would be appreciated? Cheers

I can vouch for this

Thanks Aaron.....all good with the photos.....that's what it's all about, helping each other out. Didn't know SW did this, I've come this far so will see if I can make it work.

I just renewed my Laid Up cover with Shannons but increased it from $25k to $40k

I'm intentionally not going to include this in my build thread as I may end up referring my engineer to the build thread and I may or may not present the car for engineering with these brakes as it will depend on whether 15 x 7 wheels will fit over these brakes as the engineer will not like the 16 x 8 option I'm intending to run I bought my new wheels bearings today ($95.00 for front and rear including seals from Bearing Wholesalers in Bayswater) meaning I could put the hubs and brakes on the MCA struts finally. I had to convert the R33 discs which are 5 stud (they slip over the front of the hub and held on by the wheels) to bolt to the 4 bolt holes on the rear of the 240 hub. The problem is that however you try to align the holes there is always one hole that overlies an existing hole so one of these holes had to be plugged. The engineering shop I used was very good and they pressed in a tapered plug and drilled for the new 4 hole pattern. They also had to bore out the center of the disc to fit the 240 hub. Front side of disc: Back side of disc: The dogbones worked out really well and fitted up with the gold zinc plated bolts. I had to slightly grind the top caliper bolt head and discard the spring washer so it didn't hit the strut tube . Just need to sort brake lines once the struts are in the car.

Full set of front a rear wheel bearings and seals.....$95.00 from Bearing Wholesalers in Bayswater.

That's what I'm expecting....E36 is 1450 kg and my car should be between 1100 and 1150kg so at least 3 x big blokes lighter!

Thanks for your help too Mick. Will be interesting to hear what she sounds like with some load and throttle opening!

Moving on to other things.....I'm going to use the dreaded R31 rear calipers and have followed Scoota's updates and recommendations http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/7330-tutorial-r31-skyline-rear-disc-conversion-for-240260z-new-300mm-rotor-conversion-sep2016/ I filled and finished the original mounting holes in the brackets and had an engineering shop machine the bore of the caliper brackets as required. No offence to Scoota (Mark) but I didn't want to risk the engineer knocking back the significantly modified brackets so I've elected to leave them pretty well untouched and have ground areas of the hub casting to get the brackets to fit and to rotate upwards as much as possible from the normal 3:00 o'clock position as per Mark's suggestions, hopefully this will be enough! Grinding the hub casting was pretty easy and didn't take long.....probably easier than modifying the brackets.

No, not mine.

You hit the nail on the head Peter...while its exciting, the relief of overcoming or achieving a significant milestone is much more cause for celebration.

Haha....I'm excited for me! Good motivation to finish, now I can rest easy knowing that the marriage with Z body and BMW engine works...electronics does my head in and has caused many sleepless nights.

So...... much success and happiness in my pants today......despite my shed replicating the oven in our kitchen! Not enough fuel in the tank meant the pump was sucking air, hence the multiple cranks. Very happy with the exhaust note but road test will be the acid test.

Ripper, thanks Andy.....that's much better than mine which is split in the bellows region. PM me how much and to post to 3154. Cheers

Thanks Andy but the IMG link doesn't work for me?

Got the heater hoses finished. Not very factory or elegant but given the space constraints it came up alright and will be reliable.

As the title says....mine is split so need another. No idea if the same for 240 and 260....anyone know? Cheers. David

Well the lead up to Christmas was hectic for work as well as family so I didn't get much accomplished on the project......but happy to say the fuel system is completed, wiring, installation of fuel module and tank, filter, hard lines and braided lines at each end. I went with a bigger Fuelabs filter which necessitated a new bracket and I had to put a loop in the braided line as it was too short to run direct to the pump outlet on the module. Braided lines at the engine bay end were easy enough but when I pressurized the system I found the slightest weep on the AN flare side (not the side where I made the fitting to hose joint). I undid this and gave the male end a clean up with some fine wet and dry and it looks to have fixed it. All the other connections are dry which makes me happy.

Thanks Terry for the heads up. Love your build! Yes, I am concerned about heat. Did you use the zircoflex inside the cabin or outside in the engine bay? Cheers

Merry Christmas guys! Hope everyone has a good one and a great 2017......and finishes those long drawn out projects.

Thanks guys, think I've found an option. Cheers

Who's car is on the road and driving though! Thanks Peter

I would have flares but only on a car that was pretty trashed and I cared nought for.

For high temp pressurized cooling system?

I'm trying to sort out heater hoses and looking for something like these: https://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/mediumlarge/RNB-47062_GR_ml.jpg They're $5 each from summit but I want avoid freight rapeage so prefer to by local if I can. Any ideas where/who stocks these in Aus? Failing this I would settle for some 90 degree bends in light gauge pipe but would need to be tight bends with beads rolled for security? Any suggestions? Thanks. David