WA240Z

I would check the relays, wire connection at the relays and negative conection to the chassis at the relays. Your car may have had after market relays installed at some stage, normally in the engine compartment. Because you are missing both high and low beam, I would check here. You will most likely find a single 12v supply to both high and low beam relays. The negative on one side of the coil in the relays are most likely parelled up as well so check connection at relays and to the chassis. Hope these ideas help, good luck.

PM sent regarding the carbs.

Whittie, I also have my 240 registered in WA, has been for the past 6-7 years, but have not seen that on the rego papers before. Does your car have a complence plate, and are you registering for the first time after being un-registered for some time?

I have the covers on my car, so I am biased, but I think they finish the look of the car off very nicely. By the way, where do source the SS or chrome frame type from? I have always wanted to swap to these.

I think the 40 year age rule of thumb for classics is having an effect on the 240 prices, and the fact that many people now buying a decent condition car have the funds to spend on the asking price. Look at other classics that are around 69-70 model, they are all starting to appreciate in value. When you look at it the 240z is still very good buying if in good condition compaired to its hay day competitors. I have owned my car for 20 years now, and wouldn't part with it, because it is exactly what I like, a great little GT, perfect for a weekend away, or an early morning Sunday blast on a good road and club motor sport. Not many other cars on the road of that vintage of similar price give you any where near as good a drive or looking package, and you can still buy nearly anything you need for them. Anybody buying a cheap zed and expecting cheap easy motoring I think is fooling themselves. These cars are 40 years old, and take a bit of passion to keep them in good running order. If considering a professional rebuild it will cost similar to a rebuild of a car worth a lot more money. If you want a great "drivers" classic with plenty of potential for development I don't think you could do better, but please don't buy one to neglect, leave it for someone who has the passion.

Hi, If your leads are looking a bit worse for wear, I would start there. At least make sure the connections at the cap, coil, and plugs are nice and firm and the leads are very clean. Poor leads can really play havoc under engine load. Also be careful not to advance your ignition timing too far by adjusting your distributor without using a timing light. You can easily start causing extra problems for yourself with knocking. If your new to tuning, only adjust one thing at a time, and, always start with good or new parts, such as cap, coil, leads, plugs, fuel filter, air filter, and good fuel. Nothing worse than chasing your tail making a dozen tweaks and changes upsetting the tune of the engine only to find in the end the problem was an easy replaced consumable component. Hope all goes well.

First day back in my Perth office after 2.5 weeks of holiday and work in the Adelaide and Melbourne offices, should have never left my desk. Firstly, a very big thank you to you Peter, for a professional to give up his free time to offer some knowledge that has been obtained over many years to a group of enthusiasts, is a very rare thing. I was very impressed by your level of detail not only in your workmanship, but also in how well and simply you were able to get your instruction across to us. The planing has begun for a lease of new life in the old girl.. And then there is this administrator guy and his girlfriend, who open up their home and feed a complete stranger from the other side of the country, whom they have never met, now that's hospitality. Locky and Jane thankyou. Also a thank you to your mum and dad for looking after us on the day. Finally, just a great bunch of guys, really friendly people to spend a day talking about sports cars, doesn't get much better than that. Hope to catch up with you all again in the not too distant future. Cheers, Billy.

Very interesting. I would also check you have connected the main ve- to the chassis. If the main ground isn't connected the whole car becomes above ground. This will give the impression that the engine block and chassis is positive ve+. Hope this helps.

Email sent.

Hi mate, I am also from WA, we seem to be getting a few new members from the west coast. Did you know about the Z show day in October, Sunday 24th. Cheers, Billy.

Adam, Really appreciate the info. Cheers Billy

Thanks for the info Zedman240, exactly what I was after. Cheers, Billy.

Thanks guys for all your input, zed240au, thats a good suggestion you made. Any input from 70/71 owners, how do your blinker/parker lights work? Are there two globes in the light fitting, or are they only blinkers?

Scoota G, I agree with your comments, mind you I have lived with them for some time now. I am finally getting around to getting the car looking and going exactly how I want it rather than just keeping it in good condition mechanically. Currently looking for OEM left and right door mirrors. But back to my original question of the early blinker / parker lights, what was the setup?

Yep, good idea. Cheers, Billy

Hi all, I have a 73 240z with the extra orange blinkers mounted on the bumper bar. Question for early 240 owners, are the blinkers working through the park lights, i.e. no park lights, or is there two separate globes in the early park lights? I would like to change mine to get rid of the extra blinkers to create a cleaner look.

Adam, Really looking forward to seeing you on the road enjoying your car. Photos of the engine in the car look great. I couldn't agree more about this photo, the ride height, tire diameter etc just look perfect. I am biased, but I do prefer this OEM look as you are also achieving.My appoligies for getting off subject, but do you know the wheel / tyre spcs on this car.

Perth has a fantastic motoring book store, called the "Pit Stop Book Shop". Both books mentioned are in stock, I was in there on Monday this week and noticed them. They have a good collection of z books, including factory manuals occasionally. Really helpful staff.

Yes, to confirm on the 240z blinker stalk. Up and down for the blinkers, pull back to switch between high and low beam. No push to flash button on the 240.

Hi, I owned a 280zx about 20 years ago. I am pretty sure the oil pressure sender is dual purpose, pressure and temperture, hence the reason they are quite a bit more expensive than a S30 sender.

Tony Flood Mechanical, he is in Carlisle. Very professional, and believes in doing any job properly. 9472 1800

Engine really looks the goods. Are you going to be using a similar tuned length header, or a more standard unequal length primarys header? The set in the picture look like they would work well with a twice pipe exhaust system. How long before the engine gets onto the engine dyno? I must say I don't envy the wait you have had, 12 months now, but, the standard of craftmenship that has gone into your car will, I am sure, be more than worth the wait once finished and you get to really enjoy driving an outstanding restored sports car.

Great topic for a thread. The Oxley Hwy between Port Macquarie and Tamworth. Not a bad way to spend 3 hours with your Zed. Unfortunatly we just don't have roads like this in WA.

So glad to see the updates again, I have really been enjoying watching your wonderful car come togeather. By the sounds of it not too long now.

I had a quick google search and found this thread that may help with the attachments. Also has Allan's email address that you may be able to contact directly. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5611