240ZBUILTBYME

Had the same problem with those screws, didn’t help I didn’t have JIS screwdrivers. They were a bugger, can’t remember if I ruined them, most likely I did... I ended up cutting my filler hose in half, it was hard as a rock, as I am going to replace it, you can source them from the US for about $160 USD last thing you want is to put it back in and it starts cracking/leaking and you have to replace it anyway...

Yep that’s what I figured you did, only way I could see it being done. But then how did you weld it in?!! as once you put the new inner arch in you have no access again

Now this is a long play, it will take a long time for these to start increasing in value. And I know a lot of people dislike these. But with enough time I think these will be just like the S30 or mx5. GT86 and BRZ just like the mx5 it’s a rebirth car, toyobaru brought back the cheap lightweight rwd sports car (that isn’t a convertible and has more than two seats) pros: chassis dynamics/ handling, low COG, rebirth car icon, critically acclaimed internationally cons: 2.0L boxer lacks character, slow, most cars will be modified and thrashed, will take a long time to become valuable

Look at you go gav there are too many cool cars and not enough time/money to own them all. Lol How many cars you got now gav?! Just from reading past posts on the forum I count 4 leisure cars and I assume you have a daily? 2x 240z, stagea, FD? should start calling you jay leno! I wish my wife would let me have more...

Already on the hagerty list Lurch! I’ve wanted one of these for the longest time. Finding well looked after examples is relatively easy as people generally don’t treat M cars as disposable. Rightly so

What’s the engine in it? My mate used to have a Suzuki swift GTI mk1 & mk2. Both handled amazingly, fun little cars. I’m surprised Suzuki hasn’t released a new gti yet. and since we are on the topic of small fwd’s.. WZ Fiesta ST 2013-2018 currently 20k with COVID tax (full disclosure I own one) pros: critically acclaimed on release, German built, incredible handling for a fwd, virtually no understeer (in the dry), cocks its leg round corners, torquey rev happy 1.6 Turbo engine, reliable, excellent recaro’s cons: its a fiesta, not the best looking hot hatch, FWD, interior is cheap and nasty The laughs per dollar on these is off the charts. You get good performance thrills for a small budget. Often rated as more fun than the Focus ST.

Totally agree. Very difficult to find a nice 350z nowadays. And it was kind of a Z rebirth following the Z32. I personally think they ran the 370z way too long, 12 years! It’s basically a fossil compared to today’s sports cars, But with enough time and when no more petrol sports cars are made this will be forgotten. I am a huge fan of the Z32, such a ground breaking car in terms of technology. And also IMO one of the best looking cars of the era, timeless styling. The leather interior (I don’t think we received in our domestic cars) is still stylish by today’s standards. If a well looked after non turbo 2+2 popped up I’d grab it in a heartbeat. I think the TT would be difficult to live with, more things to break and maintain.

Hey Jeff question about when you replaced your inner and outer wheel arches. how did you get access to drill out the inner wheel arch spot welds? The only way I can think of is cutting the old inner right back to where it meets the (for lack of a better name) inner inner wheel arch. Even then space would be tight, did you use any special tools? 90 degree drill chuck adapter or something? Cheers

@brent012 it’s a really good point that no one is really considering EVs from a classic perspective. Really out of the box, I like it

@brent012That’s a really good one... for all the reasons you listed!

I’ll start Mazda RX-8 Series 2 currently 10-15k pros- Wankel engine, critically acclaimed on release, 4 doors (sort of), 4 seats (sort of), good looking, RWD, excellent handling. cons- Wankel engine, fuel consumption, maintenance costs, considered the black sheep of the RX family, hard to find good examples I think the rotary engine is a unique piece of engineering which is a strong and weak point. Due to the high rate that these get sent to the junkyard the number of good examples will be diminished. This may have been the last ever Wankel engined car ever produced.

I am in isolation in my room on site as I have cold like symptoms, even though there’s no COVID in WA. So I’m really bored. There’s only so much pornhub you can watch... So I read this article that gav posted this morning. And it got me thinking about something I do regularly which is try to predict out of the box future classics that haven’t yet been “fully appreciated” here is the article if you haven’t read it. https://www.hagerty.com/media/market-trends/hagerty-insider/market-for-modern-classics/ So as a bit of fun I pose to you the challenge of coming up with a future modern clasisic that is under loved, under appreciated, and undervalued. here are a few loose rules: - cannot be a current modern classic (basically the list from the article plus the usual subjects people consider to be modern classics) -cannot be obvious or a super car. Think out of the box - must be from between the years 2000-2020 And what should be included is: -model & year -rough current price range -pros and cons - reason it will be a future modern classic

Thanks Lurch. My car is not matching numbers so I see no point making originality my goal. I do want there to be a certain degree of originality to the car though. So it’s funny I was set on keeping the 71B I have as I felt it more original than upgrading to a 71C. But as you guys have said my car would have come with the 71A. So 71C is just as original as 71B, to my car anyway. So now I’m leaning toward the 71C option if my 71B box is the less desirable/enjoyable wide ratio. Lurch is there a specific code for the S13/S14 71C? Decisions, decisions.... thanks all for you input and knowledge!

Yes and I suppose the fact you have to be checking and lubricating more regularly is what makes the single more maintenance. Where as double only requires the wheel cylinders to be healthy. I don’t have a set lying around but my Z man has some which should be relatively inexpensive, all you need to source is the -77-78 drum backing plate -77-78 park brake adjuster mechanism/arms - 77-78 rubber grommets for park brake adjuster The remaining gear is readily available and cheap from the US including wheel cylinders, shoes, hardware kits. Like you say due to the 280z. This mod to the drums obviously does not increase braking performance. But makes them easier to live with. my theory was that IF I decide to stick with drums (which I’m leaning towards) I have to replace/renew all my components anyway. So for the small extra outlay of getting the 77-78 back plates and brake adjuster, I figured it was worth upgrading to the better design. @Gtv240z I feel I have hijacked your thread and I will shutup now...

Firstly, thanks @HS30-H for the amazingly detailed reply. Interesting, I didn’t know the C71-B was the only one supplied to the Australian market. I will crack it open and do my research on telling the difference. Mine is a 1971 but is a bit of a Frankenstein. Bought it with a L20 installed and the 71B. Gear lever was impacting on the trans tunnel. I have a spare 71A which came with the car and may or may not be it’s original gearbox. Thanks for your opinion, I also think it is cool. And I’m crossing my fingers it is a servo syncro box. Otherwise I will have to source one. Hahaha I like the metaphor. This is great info to consider.

Hi all below are pics of my 71B gearbox (not the best photos sorry). Few questions: 1. Is it a C or a W and is it even possible to tell without opening it up? 2. What’s with the double slip yoke? So there is what I believe to be a slip yoke going into the gearbox however it won’t budge from the gearbox, isn’t it meant to slide out? Then a uni joint then another slip yoke. Then my driveshaft which has a spline and then a flange to the diff. If I’m not mistaken this is a modified set up by P.O. to make the 71B fit the 240z? 3. I know the C71-B is meant to be the more desirable box, Porsche servo synchros and sportier feel. But what does that translate to in real life driving? Is the C71-B way better to drive? And if so worth finding one and paying a premium for it? I know this will be a little subjective and also difficult as not sure how many people have driven both boxes?! Ryan

Nothing personal taken @gilltech! I agree with not rushing to modify. I am but a young padawan as @C.A.F. says. I know next to nothing of the force compared to all you guys. So I appreciate any attempt on your part to teach me something or share information. my impression was that the single is floating (can shift in slot) and double is bolted to the backing plate so cannot move. See the conversation that took place in my build thread on classiczcars.

I don’t think this one has been posted. There’s 10 videos in the series so far. Some excellent rust repairs and a good guide for anyone looking to do similar work. Though not so sure about how much they cut out with it on a rotisserie and no bracing.... you have to do some skipping to get through to the good stuff

Based on my research it can mess with the F/R brake bias. But it can be solved with a brake bias adjuster. Also drums can cope with spirited road driving as temps don’t get as high. On the race track heat cannot dissipate quickly enough, hence road Z can manage with drums. another issue is the park brake and modifications that might be required to make it work depending on what kit you go for.

@gilltech Yes single is designed to self adjust but more prone to failure based on what I’ve read. I have no personal experience nor have I owned a car with drums so I am only repeating what I have been told and read on other forums. double is supposed to be a better design, require less maintenance and less prone to failure. Is that incorrect? Has someone been selling me porky pies? I don’t see why they would have bothered changing the design if the single functioned equally as well.

Entertaining as always mike. Determinism is the only truth. We are nothing but chain reactions. Oh and google says 11 meters per second for the European swallow.... I have to remove my bonnet latch too so I had created a mental plan for when the time came to take measurements and run a metal scribe around the outside of the bracket. I’m assuming you did neither? someone may be able to take some measurements for you to double check your positioning before burning in? I would be happy to but I just got back to site...

I’ve read the same thing. Could drums handle the occasional track use in your opinion Locky? Though I’m far from having to make it, this is a decision I’ve been umming and ahhhing about. (Drums or discs in the rear) I’m considering doing the 77-78 drum conversion to the double cylinder set up. Apparently it actually self adjusts unlike the single cylinder set up.

My car is a basket case but I’m so glad I bought it when I did. I think I would be priced out of the market today.... maybe not priced out, but more that I’m willing to spend 50k (please god make it only 50k.....) over the next 5 years rather than 60-70k today..... I agree they’re undervalued, I think until the supply of cars in the US dwindles price growth may be slower than we all hope.

By paint correction are you just talking about the final cut and seal? Looks absolutely mint!

I think I have 2 x E88 heads, unsure of condition. I won’t be using them so would be happy to sell. Also have you contacted Martin at tuneright? Ryan