dat2kman

I'll talk to Nissan, see if we can get 20 off'em cheap , for a one make race series! Oh, wait already did that with the Pulsars back in the '80's! Their small vehicle base patform is not set up for FWD , bugga! A RWD twincam wit turbo would be most enjoyable, oh wait, it was a Sylvia S13

Consider water to air intercooler, more efficient, and can be positioned anywhere, requires an old heater core, or trans cooler, a small 2 speed circulationg pump, a small fill bottle with very lw pressure cap. Set up pump switching off the ecu, in two stages, low circulating, to stop heat soak, and high circulating flow when you are on higher sustained temps or boist levels. That way the stock location for the apWR stays, and out frint you run the small trans/heater core cooler, as well as an oil cooler. The air/water units are not overly large, square in shape, could be placed on non busy side of engine bay, it will need a air bleed cap if mounted high. I am/was planning to run one in the SR20DET engined Datsun Roadster, there is NO room out front for a FMIC but room on side fro a AWIC Even the water rad will be small, ie 550 mm x 400mm in 3 core from Desert Cooler ( sorry would not touch PWR)

Come here and take pics I use ipad, cant work out how to stick the pics from the photos section into a safari website section Dont tell me picasabucketphotouploaderimagehachshack stuff. If it isnt simple i cant do it Yes Simon, one day we Numpties will rule, what was it,,,,, the antigeek will inherit the mirth!

Hmm, 6 rotors Thats 12 spark plugs AND 18 yes eighteen combustion chambers! I get how it is all done, BUT how the effing heck do they do the crankshaft??? It's gotta be going into a drag car, but why no Uleh Brothers in sight ? ( doh it's in da good 'ol YooEsAy)

The 5 spoke ones require the special shanked nuts, the four spoke "iron cross" ones can use any nut. If you wer up my way, local pickup, i'd consider them, prob about 20$ each, tops,

Let the guessing begin I vote for ,,,,, Rotary,,, da dum!!! I ll catch you after i get back from Melb, on 13th or so.

Yes that style is full flow, if you are a lot of normal driving, then dont use the one you got,the condensation is indication you are not running it long enough, and/or not getting hot enough to evaporate it. The full flow type, srcewed to side of block, running into a remote filter block with filter, then into a front mount cooler, then back into engine will cause pressure drop, but for race use is preffered. The shops can supply a block that screws onto engine, that an oil filter then screws onto, it will have two outlets for Dash fittings for cooler hose to screw onto. Some blocks may have a smaller threaded hole for additional oil pressure gage or sender, i like to use a 20 psi sender, yes it blinks when pressure is low, but, the stock sender will light up at 8psi or less, that is danger territory in a race engine

Got eni 13B rota engine blocks lying around?

Pzg302 monitors on here a bit, Matt Matt, where are you! I could meet you at north or south benella exits next Wednesday mid arvo, on way south. Preffereable, as i am back up to Winton for the Hysterical Meeting the following wedkend of 11/12, but dont want to carry it around for that long!

The ones with a thermostat in them, are just a bi-metallic coil, with a flat, as it heats up, it unwinds and blocks off a port that feed fluid back into engine, thus ensuring more flow through the cooler. Yes they work, and best of all you get your oil to good operating temp quickly. I use the ones with the bimetallic spring coil winding thingy thing.

Get onto PZG302 on here, real quick, he has a couple, and i am leaving Brisbane early next Tuesday for Melb. Can bring it, or them, down for beers.

Rocket Industries Eastern Creek area, or MSCN performance at Seven Hills They have all that stuff

Oooh, i'll clean that up off you! I know a bloke with a stocko 1600, he might like it as a "onedaymayberebuildit" engine. The four speed? Being a 63A box, yech, but i can pull it apart for fun! Im busy until the 13 Aug, can pick up afta then. Hhmmm, what you got to go into the shell???

Commercial operator? Profiting from the community? Donate to AusZcar!

I'd like to come up with something that starts in front of the 260Z fuel tank, runs full width, out to lower rear wheel arches, drops down, hugs the bottom of the tank, again full width, attached to the lower rear bottom Qtr panel lips, and the lower rear valance, smooth line, full cover, in carbon fibre, or something liteweight. No rear muffler, as exhaust is exiting infront of LH wheel. Intention is to smooth up underbody airflow, stop turbulence drag and make it look "not obvious" As it is for a racecar, that others may object to it being there. Car already has smooth under front to behind engine cross member, all holes covered. I just look at the underside of the rear end, and think "drag" !!!

Wat did blak rocka cova cum off Looks sick will it bolton a Z18 Turbo? Wat rimz u got for four stud Z cars dood Chasin 15x10's with 0 offsets in litewate Yor FB page looks rad, post up yor sticka desine when you got it! ( ---Gen Wantitnow speak is fun!----)

It's a replacement for the rubber band, bloke up here in Qld makes em, Z shop can get them. Doesnt make it a solid mount, but they DO work. $100 is fair price. The two tubes are correct size for the stock bolts in the tunnel Other alternative is to weld some straps onto the stock diff mount, crude but effective.

You do have the stubs that go into the diff, that belong with the R200, yes? Yes, then good! No, not good, get them, they are unequal length, a right and a left. The half shafts you got with the r200, how do they compare to your originals, if flanged at each end? Compressed length, extended length? The bolt pattern on all car variants are the same, the bolt pattern is in a rectangle, not a square pattern. Some trucks with front diff have different shafts to the car variants. When i swap over diffs in my S30, r200, i have to not do up the front diff mount, so I can push the diff nose over a bit, just enough to get the left hand half shaft to fit between the flanges on stub and outboard hub, then i straihgten the nose and bolt it all tight. 1600 sedan, 240k, irs 200B 260 and 260 2+2 half shafts are all the same, save for uni joint grease fittings.

Before you outlay $$$$ for the AP or Willwood, check that the lack of dust seals on some models, will not give rise to a possible SA Transport or ADR compliance issue, if your car is to be used on public roads. If it is track only, go for AP, more $$ but superior, and you can get them out of USA much cheaper than UK, same with pads.

So,,, what are you now planning on doing?? These Hilux things do the job pretty well, and they are a no brainer to fit and set up

Matt, i too am an AMATURE, i dont have big budget race teams, no sponsorships, i fully self fund my motorsport, yes i have done it for a bit. As far as a race, ie doir to doir, lets start at the drop of the National Flag, do five laps, and chequered flag, it wont happen for you, yet! It involves a whole lot of stuff to be done to you, gear bought, catpr fitted with required safety gear etc. Simple, get your arse out to QR, when they are running their Satday Arvo, or Wednesday Funday Sprints sessions, all you need is their Baic type license, at $60, your days entry fee, $ 100 to 150??, long sleeves. Long pants, a helmet that fits your head and looks on OK condition, and get out there and soend the day circulating, work up to it, experiment with what the xar will do, and when it will let go, understeer will be the biggest issue. You will get put up on their official QR timing website, and then we will all see how good you did. Biggest problem you will then have is,,,, next time you will want to go faster!! I've got my single lap times at the various QR circuits, and Lakeside, in my 280Z, yes, i could stick slicks on it, but it runs in Stock Prod Sports category, so it has to comply with the rules and regs as set. Start off by crawling, then get on your feet, and walk, once you got the hang of that, then run! Same advice goes for Steve. Post up on here when you done it how you did! If you was in a Sylvia, i'd be a bit worried! I can also be available for a bit of coaching and instruction!

Nah, just trying to keep it as close to Apples to Apples as possible. The r33 gtr sounds pretty stock, but yes its got advantages, so why not run it against a stock 280Z that is CAMS legal as a stock factory prod sports car, on road use approved tyres, not race slicks! Steven, get it out to either QR or Lakeside, spend a day circulating, and let us know your times. That is gonna be about as good as it gets, unless you are going to get fully licensed, all safety gear and get the car fitted with a cage, you wont actually get to race door to door. Individual single lap times much like 1/4 mile times is about it, Stevofoxone, you too get your arse out to a teack, do the same, and pist up your times. 63 around Clubman circuit at QR , or Lakeside, is starting to get there. 1.25's around QR national, or if you ate thinking of Warwick, under 1.33 around the full track, ( 3 km) is trying.

I have drums, and, I try to get best lap times at all tracks, in fact, at a couple, i manage to set fastest lap time in races against other exotica. I got drums that have turned blue, othets have cracking pattern like a capital letter H, and others still good at 1 mm past their maximum limit. Front brakes are marginal in competition, so the Z guys adjust up the rears for rach race, i have been known to pull the handbrake on to first notch to take up slack due to heat expansion. Yes, it would be a certain compdition of items to give us a steel lined drum, anyone have any idea? The cast steel drums as fitted to other old datsuns would be same material.

I have 8 pairs of alloy finned drums, most at limits or close. If i can find a machine shop, that is capable of turning out the ID, and machining the OD of an apprpriate material, and using a hot oven, heat the drums, whilst sitting the new liner in a deep freezer, then press fit the new into the drum, machine off edge, and turn ID to original spec,,,, ,,who would buy these, and what orice is a fair sell price? New finned alloy drums are all NLA. The cast iron ones are! And most important, WHAT is the most appropriate material to use?? Cast iron foundry can supply various thick wall pipe, as can steel mills, but it needs to be a particular composition. Same with front brake discs, what is their correct compsition?

Easte! The accom places will jack their prices up, like they do for "special events"weekends. I got in very early for the Historic meet last March, booked a place at 140 a night, , and now got same pace again for 120 a night for the 6 hour event in a couple weeks time. At the Ramade Resort, very deluxe, and flash joint too! At least, if i get desperate, i can sleep in my Transvestite Van!