Riceburner

Wow, looking awesome guys BTW think the front diff crossmember is on the wrong way?

Oh bugger, now I gotta go get 'new' cage padding. The other stuff was only three years old Apologies for the stupid questions, it's been two years since I've raced.

Can you put a some pics of it Pete? Here's the stuff I got from brown davis. How do I know if it's going to pass?

I got mine from brown Davis but there's no markings or tags to say what it is. It's much fatter on one side than the other. So I'm not sure how they will be able to tell, the pool spaghetti looks very similar.

I saw NOS ones on yahoo Japan yesterday. Crazy money though! Sorry don't have a link

I went in race class LOL. I took it to mean that unless the car was basically stock then u would be put in race class anyway

Thanks guys. So I'll add two external springs from the throttle wheel back to the valve cover, hopefully that should be enough to get me through. I'll take some spares along too.

After some advice as it's been a few years since I have raced. I notice in the supp regs it mentions 'supplementary return springs for each throttle'. I have six FCR carbs which to me means six throttles, but they are all coupled to a single throttle shaft via threaded metal inserts and have a single throttle cable. All linkages are inside the carb bodies, leaving only a solid shaft and throttle cable wheel on the outside that I can attach to. The carbs have a single return spring fitted from the factory, it's heavy gauge and quite difficult to operate by hand. I have two of these fitted to the current setup so the 'supplementary return spring' would give me three springs in total. Do I just hook up the extra return spring on the throttle wheel and hope that it's enough?

I did think of the sticker plate too, but I thought they had been made illegal or banned. In saying that I have seen an E type jag with one in the city. What about riveting it to the bonnet, factory rally car style! LOL. Cheers Adam, it's been a while but now it's time to flog it.

Few more finishing touches before nats. I've boxed out the lower section of the gnose with aluminium plate. I also cut off the license plate backets on the bumper, the plate is now fitted to the lower section for max airflow. Tried to make a front tow hook from the old ZCCJDM one I had, no dice. The gnose has the park/turn signals sitting approx 50mm further in than the stock front, so the hook requires a much bigger offset. Also removed the rear offset inner control arm bushes, these were aluminium. After driving the car it was twitchy, further inspection, I found a heap of play between the bushes and the body. Refitted the new rubber oem bushes and no problems. Hoping to get some time to cut and polish the new paint before nats!

I've switched from penrite LSD oil cause that was foaming up, now running Motul 75/90 gear oil as that was recommended as the oil for a torsen centre. My setup sounds pretty close to yours, perhaps it's the lack of baffles/webbing on the aftermarket diff cover not helping? 350ml seems like a lot of oil.

I've been putting quite a few miles on the ricey lately, but everytime I do highway miles I find diff oil all over the rear of the suspension and the car. I have fitted a "perrin' diff cover and I also fitted a copper vent pipe with catch can. I have caught approx 350mls so far, The diff has not been over filled but is consistantly pumping oil out at highway speeds. I have noticed the later factory breathers are metal and have horizontal holes where as my copper pipe has a hole at the bottom going up vertically. Could the DIY breather be the problem? The 'perrin' cover has nowhere near the amount of baffles/webbing as the oem cover. Is this allowing the oil to go up and out of the diff? What setup do you race guys have? I have removed the diff, inspected, refitted the standard breather. So far after 2hrs of hwy driving it's not pumping oil out. Good news is the Diff still looks in great condition lucky I checked it or there could of been a disaster at the nats!!

Can't run it from the coil due to the multi spark setup, Has to come from the CDI output. With or without tach adaptor will depend on what voltage/signal your tach requires, do you know what it uses? Being a later model, you may get lucky and be able to hook it straight up.

Does the CDI have a tach output?

R180's with the letter 'K' on the top have the 115mm centres.

Wow, the man has skills! You should produce more of this stuff, maybe some for S30's too. I no I'd buy some for mine and probably my bro's 510 Are you going to do the rears too?

The rare spares inner hatch seal is IMHO a generic seal that fits many cars and is also useable on the 240z/260z's. It looked to be taller and much fatter than my original seal, I have just left it for the time being. I adjusted the catch behind the license plate lamp, it sits perfectly when closed and provides a super tight seal. I never followed up with the rear window seal as I got a replacement from allZparts. If your looking at replacing seals I would say take an example and check in store before you buy. You could try genuine Nissan IF you can find a dealership smart enough to look them up for you. If I was doing it again I'd go genuine nissan and then I would never have had an issue

Hey Roberto, how does the build quality look on the control arms and what sort of rose joint they use? Do you no what they weigh compared to stock items? BTW, for people considering Illumina's they top out at 220-250lbs, so if you springs are stiffer than that they won't do much controlling of rebound/bump.

Here's the link for them. http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=ja&u=http://home.att.ne.jp/sky/FairladyZ/&ei=EdxNSvDDNYeeMIjn4O0D&sa=X&oi=translate&resnum=1&ct=result&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dhttp://home.att.ne.jp/sky/FairladyZ/%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DG Now the big question, is the extra work to modify the not so perfect parts worth that much extra?

John, The top three pieces + bumper are arita speed, buttom piece is an old unknown second hand item from a jap import. From what Ive found there's place doing top quality reproductions in Japan 'Marogun shokai' or something but prices are crazy high. I've seen HS30-H mention them somewhere else so perhaps he can shed some more light on them. I thought the originals had a urethane bumper not fibreglass, also the captive style nuts that the standard valance has? But I'm not sure on this.

Hehehe! As John had been speaking about the work required to get his top stage style to fit I think Craig was commenting about fitment of Gnoses in general and I don't recall seeing any mention of him saying his is factory. On a 40+yr old car Factory or not they all will require some tweaking, sounds like the TS kit requirs a bit more than some. That was worth the reply Would you be willing to give some more detail as to what differences people should look for and how to pic a factory version from replica? Here's mine before adjustment, some jumper leads and duct tape holding it in place. Not bad considering my left rail is 12mm shorter than the right!

I got my Gnose from them and the type A spoiler as well, quality and fitment is really good, but you will have to drill mounting holes and fit the fixings you require. I have a few pics from test fitting straight after it arrived. Will post up later.

Great work guys! Looks like a good one Are we going to see a build thread on this?

+1 my motor mounts and gbox mounts were stuffed. Made captive engine mounts and the gbox mount is no longer an issue anymore, but I will fit a new OEM type shortly. The newer oem style mounts are garbage, nowhere near the quality of the originals and I've gone through many sets. If your sticking with factory style do as Jason says and get real NOS nissan or get them re-bonded by his recommended guy.

IMO some lowered king springs with KYB or KONI iserts should be fine, just run a slightly bigger front sway bar and a stock rear bar. I had this exact setup on my zed previously and it handled like a go kart. With 40 profile tyres your ride will be harsher also. 10kgs is massive for street I'd expect that on something fully caged into towers with slicks. Gotta take into account the S#$T roads in Melbourne too!