Sirpent

Nice work Locky, So is the battery tray going back in ? is there anything left of it? If not, I have a spare if youre loking for one Bruce

Thanks Buddy, but be prepared for a call if wiring them up becomes an issue

Mick I think the only word of advise would be to sew everything inside out leaving 1 cm of material from each section, then flatten each section and run another seam across each inside out. That would give you a propper upholstered finish.

The old man always said each NYE "You spend the year ahead the way you started it on NYE" So what better way to start 2013 than to splash the cash and buy myself some more headaches. These puppies are off a 997 GT3 Porsche, think they will eventually make their way onto the new nose, new from Porsche $3,800.00, I swipped these brand new never fitted pair for $1,000.00. Happy new year Crew P.S. + a side view shot of how they will sit from a web pic

Mick Dont worry about Lurch, maybe he can learn how to sew from you and in return he can show you how to paint your nails, does a pretty good job LOL And yes Locky, I know, anyone needing hair straightening lessons PM me LMAO

Hey Gareth Have to agree with Gavin, thats a really well exicuted front and overall the package looks great Buddy Would you consider parting with the covers in exchange for my first born ? Cheers John

Try a wrecking yard, TM-TS Magna wheels will bolt on along with a many Toyota based 4 stud wheels, probably pick up a set of 4 for $20 John

You are over complicating things, use the KISS method, keep it simple stupid (No offense) powder coating was invented for industrial applications, not the fine finish applications associated with the auto trade. What ferrari and other makes utilise these days is NOT powder coating, it is electrostatic primer application, there is a vast difference between the two. John

Hi There are two forms of car alignment available. The old method utilisise Jigs which are pre-fabricated brackets designed to bolt to a flat bed bench at specific bolt points, these are known as "Jigs" and they align to strategic bolt points on the chassis such as the towers, cross member bolt points and suspension mount points, unfortunately these went out the window some 20+ years ago and a company like "Car Bench australia" would deliver the jigs to shops based on a specific make and model for a rental period. These days new systems like "Car-O-Liner" have replaced these methods, they use universal clamps that can be adjusted to grip the chassis at differing points, as oppossed to tailored jigs, these systems are readily available in most modern shops, however you require details measurements of the chassis and the differing pick up points in order for the sysstem to use these as reference points for re-alignment. I did issue a complete set of S30 measurements on this forum about 2 years ago, and do have them saved somewhere unless one of the other lads has it available on hand to post here. Cheers John

To the entire crew on AusZcar....... To those that are at the forefront of this forum always contributing in some way or another, to the many silent achievers who occasionally come forward and blow our minds away, to those that silently sit and watch and have yet to post, and finally to the many that may not have a Zed but admire from the shadows, yes we all make up this great forum in some small way and to you all I wish a safe happy and fulfilling festive season, and in 2013, may the many projects under way come to fruition, may the many searching for a Zed find their new loves, and may the roads and miles ahead for us all be it in a Zed or other remain safe, enjoyable and without drama. Cheers John

Mike No prolems

Should you require one, I have this one available. Cheers John

Sorry Rev, But Polyester and etch primer don't mix, don't like each other, polyester is a self etching (So to say) primer / filler which works either directly over bare metal or polyester filler work, not over an etch primer base see page 2 "Special Note" http://pc.dupont.com/dpc/en/US/html/visitor/common/pdfs/b/product/sph/SpiesHecker/3508_06.pdf What I would suggest if the blasted shell is prepped quickly is to put a double coat of Polyester over the entire shell in and out, this will seal it, dent and body work can then be done with final filler work which can even feather onto the polyester without fear of shrinkage later, from here a dry 240 grit sand of the entire surface can be done for final finish paint area's, I would then load 4 additional heavy coats of Polyester over all final paint panels, POR can then be applied to the lower pan inner and outer and wherever else required. Final block sanding is then completed to the polyester area's, DRY never WET ! In my case I will be applying a final fine Hi-Fill coat pre paint, but as many US rod shops do, you can apply your final color/clear coats directly to the poly if desired. This would knock back a lot of tedious use of multiple substrates and lock the shell up quickly and safely after blasting. Cheers John

Just so theres no confusion, $1500.00 is for the clutch only, for those reading this, not the entire conversion kit I commisioned, thats another $2000.00 + worth. Cheers John

Go polyester Theres a sticky partial write up I did and thr good Rev will vouch for it. Cheers John

True David, Not everyone cup of tea as an alternative, but considering the CLAIMED durability and dirveability of the clutch set up, which I dont doubt, which is around $1500 off the shelf from ARC, It may still seem expensive but overall an acceptable cost.

Looks like someone wants a Christmas present where they can sit in the new Z seats they recently acquired, hold onto the steering wheel, turn the key, fire up that beast and get one step closer to putting into drive and launching out of that shed Nice David, as always

David You aint kidding, when I saw the flywheel being turned in the CNC it looked smaller than the dinner plates we have at home, but interestingly the same 9 inch clutch pack is used on the V8 soarer supra box conversions and apparently there are twin turbo versions running around with the set with no issues. Cheers John

Funny enough, the dimensions were modelled after myself, 9 inches I know I know quite small

As requested, not the best shots

Some porn of what lays internally

All good Simon, Plenty of room, remember its replacing a tall OHC straight six, looks deceiving because its shorter and looks taller. By the way, John.B. at ARC says Hi, and asked are you still the biggest SH*T stirrer on this forum as you were back in the day? I answered, of course LMAO

Ready for collection, Some internal pics and a layout of all the components will follow later today. Cheers John

Simon Doors are all the same stampings, only difference is the arm rest / pull handle mount points between a 240 and 260 otherwise, no difference in the physical metal stamping. Cheers John

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