garvice

Just tell her to put her skirt back on because you're the one that wears the pants.

I would do arp studs over the standard bolts. Plenty of info on Hybridz for L series builds, NA or Turbo.

Standard rods are forged already, so not really the week point.

Greg, your signature says you wont stop till you have the full set. You don't have a 260z 2+2 yet do you? Doesn't look too bad from photos, though photos can be deceiving. Then again see far worse cars come back to life.

Steve, If you want the polished look without the repeated hard work, then do a clear powdercoat after you polish. Or if you don't want much work at all, then sand it back and get a super bright clear anodised finish. You will get a mirror like finish with that.

What about some powdercoating? Or even coloured powdercoating, that way you don't have to polish it so much.

Noticed that there were no photos of the passenger front quarter.

There is already a guy on Hybridz doing custom aluminium pans so they are probably covered.

No worries, you know where it is (right next to that gearbox). EDIT: Just had a look, I have a Hitachi one and a Mitsubishi one. The mitsubishi one needs a couple of case bolts, but other then that is fine. Brad

Pretty sure I have a 280zx alternator kicking around that your welcome to.

I have always thought of a handbrake as an emergency brake, when your hydraulic brakes fail you can always pull your mechanical brake. I probably think of it as an emergency brake because of dodgy past cars. HA.

AUTO!!! Ha, didn't spot that one before.

Unnecessary alright, this is meant to be a sports car not a duff duff machine.

Different hat height, 5 lug not 4, 324mm disc, smaller centre hole but with some fab work and different rotors I'm sure they will work. At least I am hoping they will.

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/66311-240z-rear-windows-into-260z-metal-graft/page__p__622298__hl__window__fromsearch__1#entry622298 http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?showtopic=66311 http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/66876-22-roof-hump-reduction/page__p__628168__hl__window__fromsearch__1#entry628168

Oh fair enough, that makes sense. Yeah that is the same wheel as mine except I have them in 17".

Don't like the wheels on the white 2+2, thought they were hubcaps at first, but did notice that it was a 5lug conversion. Surely he could have found better wheels with the extra possibilities that 5 lug brings you. Or the wheels on the 280zx. Looks like a few Zs turned out though. Scoota, I think you have the same wheels on your car as I do, Performance brand?

It's not your fault that they are incompetent with technology. Get that extra hours work out of them. HA!

Daylight savings makes my Z fade more and it gets upset because I am changing the oil an hour later then normal.

Wasn't there different sensor connections on the 280zx depending on the year. I.E. One year had a CAS on the crank pulley, others had it in the distributor etc. Can the computers be changed to an engine running a different sensor type?

Can a moderator please delete this thread, will create a different thread for the remaining gear.

Looks like Gasket to me.

Question. Why is the positive cable coming from the front of the car (looks like it runs all the way from the radiator support or there abouts)? How did you connect the lug on the battery cable? If you need a C crimper I have one here. Suggestion. The sill is hollow and I know mine has punched holes all the way along so if you need a way to bypass the seat mounts that is another option, or since there is room between the seat and the rails, you can run them along the side of the sill and over the seat mounts. You will notice that the drivers side has all the rear taillight wires run this way. Information. Voltage does not drop down a wire without current flowing through the wire. When you measure the voltage with your meter you are only using a very small current (mA) as a reference for the meter. If you want to know how good your connections (and size of cable are) you want to measure the voltage at the battery and then at your amplifier whilst under load (turn the music up). That will give you an idea of how much power is being wasted in the cable. EDIT: Oh yeah, good to see a mechanical engineer put some effort into trying to make a neat electrical job (doesn't happen much in the real world). Are you a real gingerbeer yet?

You owe me VB? I'm not getting the reference. Can you remove the cam without taking the head out? I thought it would have hit the radiator. I guess if you drop the transmission you might get the angle to get it out. It is hard enough driving a Z in the rain at night (shocking lights and no visibility) add the no wipers and that would have just been scary. Not to mention it was pretty damn hard rain yesterday.

Is it running yet? When are you bringing it around for a look? Turns out I won't have the three phase for another good 4 weeks because the electrician is going away for work, so no hoist till after that.