garvice

Got to be a better way then this though, something like a factory setup with an integrated overcurrent setup or limit switch (to detect when the window is all the way down). This is another one of the hundreds of projects I have thought of, hoping someone solves it before I get around to it (hint hint John, ha).

Lend me your Zed Gav and I will keep it in working order over the next 2 years so that you can participate in the event.

I got the transmission out again today to clean up the mount and get the flex plate back in. So I took the opportunity to finally get the photos of the modified shifter uni-joint and mount.

That is because I don't have a wide V engine in my engine bay.

So your engine/gearbox no longer moves around on heavy braking and when going up hills? The amount you said it was moving sounded very large. Rubber gearbox and engine mounts still holding together?

Ah, damn optical illusions. Keep up the good work, and yes those are the switches I meant, haven't seen them with the lights before though (or haven't noticed).

Looking good mate, but that looks more like glue then weld? Plastic welding is pretty easy if you can get your hands on the gear. Also, for the window switches, my plan has always been to use toyota switches (I think they are the nicest looking ones and best feel that I have come across). Though I have always thought I would grab two drivers switches so that both windows would be auto up and down.

You didn't go casey? Gees. We will have to try and make 2013. Still on northside?

Thanks guys. I was starting to have datsun withdrawals being overseas. Shaun is that your yellow 240? If so, can't wait for your pictures of the event.

Isn't easter next weekend?

Looking great Peter, well done. Will have to meet you sometime and check it out. Great to see another 2+2 have time put into it. Brad

Sounds like you need a couple of these in the shed mate (now have castors on front to help move them around). I call them my thinking chairs, and tell my mates they are for me to sit in while they do the work (that hasn't happened yet but I am still crossing my fingers). http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q63/garvice/IMG_5640.jpg

I don't think anyone has an interier (especially a compleate one) and I think you will find it hard getting someone letting you cut a frot section off.

Oh, so a theoretical not empirical statement or did I read it wrong and you were just saying that Narva was better then factory lights (I think my LED lenser torch puts out more then the factory sealed beams. HA).

Then they don't know what they are selling. Send a pm to bens 1088 on hybrid z about it. He will be able to tell you more

He got both rhd and lhd beam patterns made. Not sure what z store are selling though as I haven't checked their site. Big call on the narva lights. Didn't know someone had run then side by side with this hid kit.

All points above also covered in these headlights. They have high beam and they have the beam cutoffso they don't blind on coming traffic.

The return comes back through the switch though. If you use the Relay the the headlight switch only sends the signal to the relay.

Yeah I got them off Ben. He got them manufactured in some asian country, but I was extremely surprised with the quality. They essentially are plug and play but they also have a new feed to the battery (essentially are a relay upgrade harness aswell).

My problem was my stock headlights were rubbish. I use to drive around with high beams on and no one would know. After driving a new car with hids they seemed even worse. There are other kits out that are cheaper, but I don't think the are real hids. Then there are other real kits but they are more expensive and the have the bug eyed look. This is the first set I have seen that offer hids and the classic look of sealed beam headlights.

Depends what work you are chasing, but I have never had a problem getting mineral and metals work in brisbane as an engineer. Worked for several consultants as a design engineering role which included construction/commissioning work and also worked on site in brisbane refineries in similar roles. Definitely good paying work for engineers or designers in brisbane (never involuntarily been out of work), never had the need to leave brisbane to chase money/work.

I live 5kms from the town on the northside and for a period of about 2 years worked outside of town. I don't think I set foot in the CBD for those two years. So yes, CBD is not required. I had to build my own shed to get something that I wanted (and figure if i move again will have to do it again). I personally would recommend Kepera/Arana Hills/Ferny hills. Older areas, but definitely undervalued. I reckon it is one of those areas that can eventually only go up (around the 10kms mark from town). There are some brick homes, but mostly older 2 story places, with lost of large blocks (got a place with 1000m2 for around similar money to my 550m2 block 5kms from town).

I have a couple of sets at home. I have yet to install them though. Bought them off the guy on hybridz who got them made. Excellent quality.

I always thought the general consensus was that the solid lifters were better then hydraulic ones? Thought that was the reason why people chose the RB26 head over having to modify an RB25 head to solid lifters. Sorry, just actually read your post (take foot out of mouth). Didn't read the "Lot less hassle" part.

What is wrong with that car? I would not do it to my car, but I have no problem with someone making their car how they want to. After all, it is only a datsun. Yes I love my datsun, but when it was created it was similar to what we would see as a Hyundai Genesis.