stevo_gj

Hi All, Long time no post! Good to see so many members on here. I've recently been involved in an accident (sideswiped by a van) and am looking for a repair shop in Brisbane. I'm covered by Shannon's for insurance so I'm looking for a good quality place to have the work done. I used to have a friend in business but he's since moved on, so I've got no starting point! Is anyone able to recommend a repairer in Brisbane? I've attached a few photos of the damage for those who are interested. Cheers! Stephen

Hey guys, I saw Radovan's car in person a few years ago and it is top notch. Note that I had my car's paint completely redone and was shocked when I saw how little rust there was - clearly these cars have been well taken care of! As you will notice if you look at my build thread I changed the style of my car to be a little less 80s, and it was so easy because it was such a great starting point. Cheers, Steve

I'm down.

Price drop as above.

Hi All! I'm looking to sell the following: $200 - Ebay exhaust headers still wrapped up in original packaging from seller. I ended up not needing them. Here is the ebay ad I bought them from: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nissan-Datsun-240Z-260Z-6cyl-Petrol-Extractors-Header-/261194213622?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cd06368f6&_uhb=1#ht_683wt_750 $375 - OEM Nissan 240z pistons As I understand it, by installing these into an L26 you up the comp ratio to just under 10:1 on an E88 head and power and torque goes up by around 25%, an easy modification to a stock L26 without major reboring or head work. If interested in either of the above please call or text 0416 (eight) 10 906. Thanks, Stephen

I have found it easier to do it with the motor in the car but I have had limitations with the chain block I've used not being able to lift the motor very high. Make sure you block those ports up though!

Sounds like your measurement was in the ballpark to me. 1 ton car divided by four springs = 1,000 kg X 9.81 m/s^2 / 4 springs = 2,450 N (kg*m/s^2) Springs are typically simplified as a linear increase for each unit of compression or tension, but in reality near the free length they can be highly nonlinear. Spring formula is usually F = kx, where x is the change from free length in meters, and k is the spring constant in N/meter. If you are really keen, compress your spring at 10 intervals from the free length to operating length, and plot the measured force versus the compression length and you should see a graph that is initially non-linear, then becomes linear.

I have some original Nissan 240z flat top pistons I bought off another forum member for my rebuild. It turned out my bores were too big for them. I'm looking to sell them for $425. Not sure if it is what you are looking for but if interested my mobile is 0416 810 90-six. I'll throw in shipping for free.

Hey guys! Well the work has begun on the motor, I pulled it out and sent it off to be rebuilt a couple months ago. I should be getting it back in early Jan. Unfortunately I could not install the 240z pistons due to my cylinders being slightly too large from wear. So brand new flat top aftermarket pistons are going in as recommended by the builder. I have bought the Stewart Wilkins entry level extractors HPC coated. Based on advice from another thread I am going to install a stainless 2 1/4" exhaust with magnaflow straight through resonator and muffler. I have installed the new radiator, ready for the engine. Anyone want to buy either of the following: Ebay 240z/260z extractors (painted silver), untouched original Nissan 240z flat top pistons?

Ditto!

Hi Rev! Within the next 4 months would be nice, if possible. I am chasing the diamond pattern for the strut tops, transmission tunnel and 'deck' (? vertical bits behind seats). Basically all of the bits that come in the diamond pattern. Cheers! Stephen

Hi Rev! I know this thread is a bit old, however I am not sure where else to find these parts. Is it possible to get any of the 260z 2 sweater interior vinyl kits any more? Best Regards! Stephen

Hi Guys! I am looking to source some of the original diamond material for an upholsterer to fix up my interior to look more original. Does anyone know of an Australian supplier who stocks 260z interior vinyl kits or just the diamond material itself? This old thread confirms my suspicion that the 240z diamond vinyl kit from MSA is not a very good fit for the 260z without some work. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,10517.msg104861.html#msg104861 Current shipping price for the 240z vinyl from MSA is $64 US for express. Cheers! Stephen

That sounds like a great idea! No worries at all.

Yep spot on, that's exactly what I'm getting! The HPC coating and stainless are for the look and longevity of the system. Peter just pointed out these are the 'cheap' SW headers. The general info I have posted above is a handy reference for the next person that comes along, the performance considerations aren't really a significant factor, for the reasons you've said.

Thanks for reminding me Jake, I really do want HPC coated headers and stainless steel pipes and magnaflows, so your system isnt really a cost effective option for me.

Hi All! Photos of the SW extractors to suit a stockish L26 attached below. The photo shows them coated with heat proof blue paint and the price for them is $420. To have them HPC coated is an additional $300 so $720 all up. It is intersting to compare them to the headers I posted in my first post using the photos. SW Version: 1 5/8" primaries, 2" secondaries 2 1/4" outlet Pipes from cylinder 1 and 6 are taking a relatively shorter route to get to the collector. Primary pipes seem shorter Pipes are not very ovalised (not circular cross section) through a better bending technique Secondaries are relatively longer Max Headers (ebay) version 1 5/8" primaries, 2" secondaries 2 1/2" outlet Pipes from cylinder 1 and 6 are taking a relatively longer route to get to the collector. Primary pipes seem longer Pipes are a bit ovalised (not circular cross section) from bending Really good articles on the functions of primary and secondary sizing and lengths here: http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/header_basics/viewall.html and http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tech/1111phr_how_to_size_headers/viewall.html Cheers! Stephen

Thanks Peter. Tim from Stewart Wilkins says that there are two types, and that the 2.5" outlets ones are the high performance ones suitable for L28s and strokers, and that the 2.25" outlet is the one for smaller motors that he would recommed for my application. I just spoke with Les from Fat Pipes at Lawnton and found him to be very friendly and willing to work to my specifications, but also very happy to make helpful suggestions. In summary: He recommends hurricane mufflers and resonators, as they have an additional layer of steel wool that the magnaflows don't have which increases the life of the fibreglass in the muffler. The hurricane website leaves a lot to be desired in technical information, so I am not sold on this. Can anyone comment on Hurricane mufflers? He can do a mild steel system with mild steel hurricane mufflers for $500 He can do a mild steel system with stainless steel magnaflow mufflers for $660 He can do a stainless steel system with stainless steel magnaflow mufflers for $780 - this is my preference As he is able to do the stainless steel system for only $120 more I think I will go that route for increased life. Should I be worried about wall thickness? Cheers! Stephen

Thanks for that! I just spoke with Tim on the phone and he is going to confirm the price and lead time for me. He advised that the primaries are 1 5/8", secondaries 2" and the outlet is 2 1/4". On the thread you reference the outlet is 2.5", which means they are not quite the same. For the HPC coated version he said I would be looking at around $620, which seems reasonable. I will update back with the photos that he sends me.

Thanks Peter! So to clarify you think I'll see a benefit using the SW headers over using the cheap ebay ones? I've found the website for SW, but can't see any photos of the headers or a price listed. Does anyone have a photo and idea of the price? Cheers! Stephen

Hi! Please post photos of the two types and I'll add them to the sticky. Also make sure you tell us the material and price of each one and add your phone number. Thanks Stephen

Hi Peter! Those are the ones- cheers! What are you thinking for the headers? Thanks! Stephen

Hi Guys! If you have contact information for a place to get them that I haven't already listed (focus is on Australian contacts, we can get just about anything from the US so I have just put the MSA website link instead), please post in this thread and/or PM me and I will update the front page. Thanks! Stephen

Hi Guys! Thanks for the responses. So, to summarise: The headers I bought are poor quality and I should get better ones, even though I am only running a slightly modified L26. Magnaflow straight throughs give good results. Lurch recommends a centre centre version in the middle of the system, and a centre/offset version with a tip on the offset. (this matches the exhaust that I took off my car BTW) I should find an exhaust place that listens to what I want. I have PMd Peter Mac and will check the price. I still have a couple of questions: How does one select the length and core size of the muffler? Zedman it sounds like you are saying the biggest possible core diameter will have the maximum reduction in droning, as the flow goes slowly through it (flow velocity being inversely proportional to cross sectional area). Should I therefore pick the biggest core size I can get? Will it still sound good at higher RPM? Assuming I get the better headers, will I notice much of a performance gain over the ebay versions, since I am running a motor that will be not much faster than stock? Will the better ones sound different? I realise that they will probably last longer due to being better made and will have tuned lengths to suit the RPM range that a street car would be operating in, so I guess there will be some gains in that (probably having more torque at low RPM?). It would be good to understand exactly what I am paying for with the better ones. With the magnaflows, any comments on oval vs round designs? It seems like newer exhausts use round ones, while older exhausts uses oval ones. The magnaflow FAQ says there is no real difference it is just for clearance purposes. So selection of the type would seem to be for aesthetic purposes only. I bought those cheap headers months ago, I'm sure they are fine in relation to the stock manifold, just not as good as well made aftermarket headers. I'll see if anyone wants to buy them. Cheers! Stephen

Hi All! I am about to get my exhaust replaced to suit my reconditioned engine and new headers. My engine is a refreshed L26 with a mild cam and twin 240z SUs. I want to know what to specify for my exhaust system to get a great sounding exhaust note when I open it up that won't drive me nuts by droning all the time. I have read a few old threads (links below), googled around and I have come to the following understanding that will be the basis for my new exhaust: • 2.25" is the best size for a slightly modified L26 • A straight through muffler (AKA resonator) should be placed near the extractors (close to the gearbox) to prevent droning. • The second muffler (which has the exhaust tip attached) can also be a straight through design. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,5407.0.html http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,1395.msg10080.html#msg10080 http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,2153.0.html Magnaflow and Dynomax appear to be two of the big names in this industry when it comes to mufflers. For those interested, Dynomax now supply a new type of straight through muffler called the Dynomax VT that incorporates a butterfly valve and spring that quietens the exhaust at low air flow, and when you give it some pedal opens it up fully. In other words, this design of muffler can be loud when you want it to be. A few threads on various forums mentioned issues that the early designs had with the valves chattering, but apparently these were issues with early models of the design, and the new versions no longer have them. Dynomax also offer to pay for labour and replacement parts if the valve does rattle, which is a good sign. Also it's a lifetime warranty. http://dynomax.com/mufflers.php?muffler=vt I am not really interested in this product for my exhaust, but it is interesting. I have already purchased the ebay headers as per the attached photograph. I really like the sound of this engine that Roberto posted, and it seems to be a good example of using two straight through mufflers in a 2.5" system that results in not being too loud but sounding great: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pj4eWW4j3DY I would be really grateful to get some input on the following questions from you guys to to help me achieve the design goals of being not too loud during regular driving, not droning and sounding great when I give it some gas: 1. If I was to select two Magnaflow straight through mufflers for the system, should I select two that are the same size, or should the one near the tip be larger/smaller? 2. To select the size of the magnaflow straight through mufflers, I am assuming that I simply pick the ones that have 2.25" inlets/outlets to match the size of the exhaust. But what is not clear to me is how to select the length. The 2.25" in/out has various combinations of lengths (14", 18", 22") and various core sizes (2", 2.5"). How would I select the length and core size? 3. Should I buy these items from the internet and deliver them to the exhaust shop with instructions, or simply tell the exhaust shop what size and brand I want? Will the brands they have in stock be equivalent in quality? 3. Any other general comments on exhaust setup for a slightly modified L26?