stevo_gj

Please PM me with any recent information used for ordering these air dams and I will update the sticky.

PMing

Put me down for a pair of the round ones. No logo please

I did not contradict myself, because increasing static water pressure (to increase the boiling point) with a restrictor does lower the system efficiency by reducing the flow rate (if the pump does not change), and, it does prevent steam formation which is not so much about system efficiency as it is about having hot spots in discrete locations within the cooling water passages which can damage the block. Total heat transfer of a closed cooling system increases with increasing convective heat transfer, and convective heat transfer is proportional to the fluid velocity. Having water temperatures as high as possible without starting boiling as it passes around sharp geometry in the block would give you the maximum total heat transfer for your system without causing damage. If you combined a restrictor with higher flowing pump then you would actually have a lower efficiency system (efficiency is heat transfer divided by work of pump, and the pump would have to work hard thanks to the restrictor) that had a higher heat transfer as it would be possible to run with a higher temperature of water in the block at the same flow rate as before. What you have to consider is that having hotter water does not result in higher heat transfer through the system for a given unit of time if the flow is slowed down as well. Regardless, that "enough time in the heat exchanger" idea is a myth. I will concede the point if you can find reasonable links to an engineer who explains why "increasing time in the heat exchanger" will increase the total heat transfer capability of a cooling water system. Update: Wow I just tried googling 'too much flow in radiator myth'. This discussion has been had on at least 100 other car forums.

That is a common myth. It is a closed system so heat in = heat out. It is not an issue of 'spending time' in the radiator but it is more about the equilibrium temperature reached. Restrictors in race engines are for increasing the vapour pressure as the water flows around the sharp geometry in the block so that it does not boil, as a steam reduces local cooling which can exacerbate already hot spots in the engine. Restrictors do not increase cooling efficiency at all. I found this explanation the best: http://www.stewartcomponents.com/tech_tips/Tech_Tips_3.htm

Hi Gents! Been a while since I've posted about my Z! Life, job, GF seem to leave me little Z time although I still do browse the forums. I'm currently organising an engine rebuild of the original L26. Have the following things planned: -Full rebuild -Replace pistons with Nissan genuine 240z flat top pistons -Install mild camshaft -Install new ebay extractors from NSW -Install new ebay aluminium radiator with twin 12" thermos -Dyno tune of the SUs after rebuild Current timing for this work is likely to be December. Will post photos. I've never been to an exhaust shop before, so maybe you guys can help me out here. I was wondering if I could ask them to modify my exhaust so that it gets loud at 3500 RPM, and that below that it is quieter. Is that something that they normally do/would know how to do? Is it going to cost me significant performance? Any useful links where I could educate myself on exhaust design would be appreciated. Cheers! Steve

I've read this statement before on this forum, pretty sure it is incorrect. Increasing fluid velocity increases the convective heat transfer, which will improve the efficiency of the whole system, which results in lower average water temperature.

Hi Gavin, I'm interested in your Mikunis. Would you please text/call me on 0416 81 ZERO 906? I have texted the mobile number on your post, so this is just in case I have the same difficulties as Kgc10gtx. Thanks! Stephen

Hey gents! Thanks for all of the replies. I get the impression that they perform well and will aim for a 3 core unit. I will ditch the mechanical fan and use thermo fans on the new radiator. Please keep posting your experiences with the ebay radiators, as I'm sure this will be a useful reference for others. Cheers! Steve

Hey all, I'm Looking to upgrade my 260s radiator and like everyone I've noticed the aluminum ones on eBay. Can anyone who has one make some comments on their performance and maybe clarify the different ones that are available (2 and 3 core radiators have the same pic on the eBay ads)? I found this one thread where they have one good review, hoping to add to that before I make the purchase. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,7342.msg68952.html#msg68952 Cheers! Steve

In that case I will wait to hear whether or not the size can be selected before I commit. Cheers!

Hey Simon, I've just read my copy of "How to modify your Nissan and Datsun OHC engine" as suggested by Benny and it has made it clear that I would not want anything bigger than 1-5/8 inches primaries in the future (when I upgrade my motor performance), and probably 1-1/2 inch primaries would suit my current (stock) setup best. The 1-3/4 in is suited to racing engines. Unless they give you the option of getting 1-5/8 inch or 1-1/2 inch primaries I'll have to pull out. Sorry mate Cheers, Stephen

For general info on the engine heads here is our local resource: http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,6012.0.html

If you look at getting ceramic coated I'm in for that too. Cheers, Steve

This is what I did to get retro looks but modern tech: http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,2857.msg25895.html#msg25895 Edit: also the new speakers to go with the head unit here http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,3782.225.html

Hey guys, I'm in for the 11th!

Sold pending payment.

Hey guys, Have had a couple enquiries about shipping. I had a good experience with E-Go and the shipping itself cost me $216 from their Perth Depot to my Brisbane address plus an extra $100 to get a crane on site at my place. If you want to get a quote from their website dimensions are 120 cm high x 50 cm wide x 80 cm deep and the weight is approx 180 kg. Cheers, Stephen

Hey all, Some of you may remember I purchased a race L28 late last year with big plans to put it into my 260z for extra grunt and triple weber fun. Well after starting a new job in january I can't see myself getting around to the swap, and I am going to sell the engine and the parts that came with it. I bought the engine from Perth for $4000, however as I have not inspected its internals (It has been sitting on an engine stand covered by sheets in my garage since I got it) and I want it to be a quick sale I am willing to part with it for $3500. To be clear this price is for all of the parts shown in the photographs, block, webers, etc. The previous owner assured me it would have no trouble making 170 HP atw. The original seller details are listed below: http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,7891.msg75270.html#msg75270 The headers are in pretty average condition (they were rusty upon delivery), but apart from that the engine is in great nick. The only thing that I can't include is the alternator that came with it, which wasn't in very good nick anyway so I had taken it apart. Some photos: This is what it looks like assembled: This is where the engine is now in my Brisbane northern suburb home: The webers have been kept indoors covered by a towel to keep dust etc off them: The headers are useable but don't look very nice: Some history of the motor: It was used by Tyson, the previous owner, in his race 240. He sold it to me after he bought a complete race car to replace his 240. He built it himself and had many years experience of building race motors. It was built for club motorsport, and using this motor he won the state hillclimb in 2004. He had spent roughly 10 hours racing since the engine had been last rebuilt (replaced the 'big ends', mains and rings) before he took it off the road in 2008. He did a cold compression test prior to shipping to me and sent me photos of all cylinders with pressure above 190 PSI. To reduce the inaccuracy of this test after the engine had been sitting he had primed the engine with fresh oil. Here is the contents of an email from Tyson describing some more engine details: I've tried to include as much information as I can in this post, but feel free to ask questions and I'll do my best to answer them. The original for sale post by Tyson is here: http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,7891.msg75270.html#msg75270 My mobile is 041-SIX 810 90-SIX Cheers! Steve

Hey guys, Stranded in Melbourne thanks to tiger cancelling their flights. Anyone need a car taken from melb to bris? I know it's a long shot but you never know. Cheers steve

Hey guys, Here is my friends reply : beggars can't be choosers so we would be grateful for any period correct car from the list or similar. Let me know if you think it's possible or if you want more information. Cheers Steve

Hey guys, Thanks for the replies, I'll get those details off my mate asap! Filming is likely to be in Brisbane but I'll see how flexible he is too. Cheers Steve

Hey guys, A mate of mine is looking to cast a couple of vintage 1950s cars for and independent film he is making. He can't really afford to pay for hiring the cars, but if you do let your car be used you get to see it immortalized in film, which might be worth some bragging rights or improve the cars value if the movie is successful. The kinds of cars he is looking for are similar in style to the ones on this list:http://auto.howstuffworks.com/classic-cars10.htm I realize that most of our cars are 20 years too young for the part, but I'm hoping someone might also have a 50s classic in their collection. I will add a link later to with his donations page and his other works. Cheers, Stephen

Hey guys, Handbrake cable snapped a couple days ago, gave me quite a shock. Did a search and apparently http://www.autocables.com.au/ can custom make replacements, but I may have to send my cable to them. Does anyone know any alternatives apart from that company? Cheers! Steve

Thanks guys. Nato that is way beyond the scope of this thread, please feel free to make your own thread elsewhere on that topic. I'd appreciate it if we kept it on the topic of HPC coated headers please. If I bought the US headers and had a flange plate welded on do you think re-coating the flange plate would be expensive dazzed? Cheers, Steve