BenZed

Ok, brakes now on and working. Nice to have stopping power to match the acceleration At the front as mentioned I have the Arizona Z Car Wilwood four-piston brake conversion. They now make these to suit the early-model 240Z hubs so they were a proper bolt-on fitment, complete with braided lines. They fit very comfortably inside my Watanabes as the caliper sits well inboard. Should fit under most 15-inch wheels too.

Sorry everyone, the calipers have been sold already.

Actually you can get vented rotors from Kameari to fit these. They make them to fit inside the Historic Racing rules for Japan. Bad news is they're $900 a pair in Japan hehe

LN105 four-piston calipers (early Landcruiser), bolt-on upgrade for solid front disc brakes on 240Z, 260Z. These are fully reconditioned calipers from Motorsport Auto. Pads and lines are not included, what you see is what you get, $200 including shipping anywhere in Australia. PS 'Heavy Duty' Bendix pads are readily available for these calipers. ***SOLD***

In terms of $ per hp I admit the OS motor does not make sense at all. It would actually be cheaper to build a high-compression version of the OS Giken RB315 (see Otomoto website) which would have the same rpm capacity and your choice of RB valvetrain upgrades. It's really just a question of how much you want to keep an L-series. If you want big atmo power you need big rpm and only a twin cam head will deliver the airflow to keep up with 10000rpm. Plus, as many people have noted, the OS engine looks and sounds fantastic.

12-month warranty on the dampers. We don't need to have different length dampers because there is enough height adjustment in the base bracket that we weld on. I haven't seen the ones you mention but I expect they use only the spring seat to adjust height.

Not Japan... but I couldn't think where else to put it. This is my old 240Z, which I sold to a guy in the UK. It has been in a few magazines there including this article in J-tuner.

Not a Zed, but I'm sure anyone here would appreciate it. This Toyota 2000GT belongs to one of my suppliers in Okayama. You can't tell in this pic but it has a rollcage and harnesses as he uses it in historic racing

When I had my first zed (fifteen years ago) I thought about fitting 240K sedan lights like that... glad I didn't

As I trawl through my old photo archives I'll post up any Zeds I find. Here's one I spotted on the freeway around Fukushima

Here are some 260Z struts we just converted for jasonb. As the 260Z shafts are thicker we used some S13 rear bases, machined out to slide over the 260Z tubes. The 260Z struts have proper bearings at the front rather than a grease-packed hemisphere, but one drawback is an extra skirt that extends down from the upper spring seat (see pic2). This reduces the potential bump travel by a centimetre or so. It could be ground off, but we didn't want to mess up jason's top mounts. Alternatively you could just change to 240Z top mounts.

Some more cool TC24 pics

17x7.5 +4 and 17x8.5 +4 RB are good for brake clearance. 16x7 is good too, but 16x8 not so good.

Yes they should be suitable

We have forged aluminium wheel nuts to suit for $4.50 each. If it was me I would run a 215/45 front and 235/40 rear, but you may not want stretched tyres.

Same problem I'm afraid. The clearance at 25mm is zero, but at 40mm out there is 50mm. In other words if your discs were one inch bigger you could fit anything.

Some wieghts are listed on my project car build-up

They have plenty of caliper clearance unless your calipers sit too close to the hub. As an example, an S13 with S14 brakes won't clear, but with larger GT-R size discs they will.

Here are some photos of our new warehouse at 13 Bourke St, North Parramatta.

Option One in Queensland sell these sizes in 15 and 16: 205/50/15 $151.00 215/45/16 $133.00 225/50/16 $155.00 Add GST to the prices, plus freight to Melb. I put some on a GT-R recently, they are a 180 treadwear tyre so not super-soft but a good compromise for road/weekend track. That GT-R did 50+ laps of Phillip Island and they were only about 1/3 worn. Better than Falken Azenis but not as grippy as Toyo R1R or RA-1.

I once had spacers engineer-approved in NSW, not sure if you can do that now. There are some dodgy spacers out there, but if they're made from the appropriate grade of alloy (preferably forged 6160) and have high tensile studs properly fitted, then they are not dangerous. I've had a set on the back of my drift car for years. Admittedly it isn't registered, but there have no problems with these. I have also seen hundreds of them on modified cars in Japan and nobody ever mentioned a problem with them. Unfortunately this is one more modification that has picked up a bad rep due to a few dodgy examples. All of that said, just buy my wheels instead

I would suggest running 205/55 front and 225/50 rear. Running bigger on the front just gives you more sidewall flex, heavier steering and not necessarily more grip

CHRISTMAS SPECIAL FOR FORUM MEMBERS Hello all, got some stocking fillers for you here. Until Decemeber 23 I am offering our Rota Grid 16x8 +10 wheels at a special price of just $880 for a set. All three colours are in stock and as you can see by the photo they do clear the struts easily. Shipping to Vic is only $40 extra. PM me for freight to other states.

Super rare set of Bilbo wheels still available (people keep putting them on hold and then falling through). Fronts are 14x7 +0, rears are 14x7.5 -5 Cool old-school look, excellent condition for their age. Currently have stretched 175 tyres. $800 for the set, $60 shipping to Melbourne, contact me for shipping costs elsewhere.

Small update, the car now has an HSD coilover conversion front and rear, electric thermo fan and a bootload of brake hardware about to get fitted. I bought the Wilwood brake kit from Arizona Z car for the front and Motorsport Auto's rear disc kit with Maxima calipers (so I can keep a real hand brake). Also picked up a 15/16 master cylinder from SWR. I will see how it behaves before I invest in a brake bias adjuster.