Glen

Well done mate im sure your counting down the days. Just by reading posts etc by Lurch i'd say you have bought a very well sorted 2+2. Enjoy!

Touche

i like it, but im not sure about the indicators.

I never had any issues using the redline manifold, they dont have a balance pipe. I know two other people using redlines that dont have issues either. Just a heads up for those looking at buying manifolds in the future and not having to worry about brake issues like above.

looks great, have you seen this done before or are the one of first?

Heres a nice post i found. Even though they say a turbo oil/fuel pump isnt required i dont think its some thing to give a miss, if your going to spend 2k doing it then you should put in the little extra bits and finish it right. This was compiled by a dozen people that have done the conversion with good realiability. N/A Highcomp Turbo Setup #####IMPORTANT##### This is to be done ONLY after you have upgraded your brakes to turbo spec! N/A brakes and a Turbo DO NOT MIX, they WILL choose to FAIL at the worse possible time ################### ################### GENERAL INFORMATION ################### Non Engine Parts Brakes on the VL TURBO are larger, and they have got finned calipers Rear brakes are always DISK on a VL Turbo Diff on a VL turbo is 28 spline Vs 25 spline for non turbo (28 is MUCH stronger) Master Cylinder (brake) is 1" instead of 15/16'ths Brake Booster is Double Diaphram in a turbo car VL turbo Manual is stronger MX7 vs MF5 (non turbo is useless) VL TURBO auto is stronger and has an oil cooler Original Turbo and Non Turbo Differences Engine There are a few differences between a Turbo engine and a Non Turbo engine from factory Cam Oil Pump Pistons Engine Block The Turbo aka series 2 engine block has got the fittings as bolts in the last picture of this post. Identification of a Factory Turbo engine block a8 designates rb30et, a6 designates rb30e. It will only be on the number at the RIGHT HAND FRONG of the motor, the number at the left hand rear will always end in A (thx yep_boost) Turbo The Turbo Used is a Nissan Garrett T3, which is watercooled, it has an internal Wastegate, which is set to approx 6 PSI. Fuel Try running your car for a month or so on HIGH octane fuel, ultimate, vpower and all, because thats what you WILL NEED to run after you do a high comp turbo conversion, if thats too expensive, forget the turbo Fuel Pump N/A Fuel Pump Is fine to use with the conversion Camshaft The Turbo camshaft has got less overlap than the non turbo one both are useable Knock Sensor When it detects pinging, it will retard the timing 5 degreese, if you are running a turbo computer there is a guide on installing one somewhere on calaisturbo Oil Pump N/A Oil Pump Is fine to use with the convserion Fuel Regulator N/A Fuel reg can be used with the conversion (Not With Turbo Plenum) Fuel Rail N/A Fuel Rail Can Be used with VLT injectors (Only With N/A Plenum) Plenum N/A Plenum can be used with the conversion (Flows Better Too) Automatic Transmission N/A Auto Transmission is hit & miss, highly recommend the first to do list is to get it bulit stronger or Aid it with Transmission Cooler that may increase its life some what, as costs to buy/replace one would reach around $300-400 proffesionally done Manual Transmission The MF5 is a very weak box (i broke 2 with a very stock N/A) they wont handle too much, if you drive like a granny, it sould last 6 months or so.... The coolant line labeled 3 in the pictures i had a few issues lining it up to the block, For 70-80 dollars you can get one made from the line with adjustable fittings also makes it a breeze and less chances of leaks, as these lines can bend. (michael2427) Exhaust Manifold The Standard Holden Manifold is used, be sure to check if it is cracked, also it would be a good idea if you replace the studs, by spraying with WD40 or similar Turbo Dump Pipe the holden one is fine, you can get a larger one Dump to Cat pipe The standard one is used, although you can get a larger one made up Crossover Pipe It has got one fitting on the side, which is a Vacuume hose that goes onto the AAC valve at the rear of the intake plenum Injectors the top of the injectors should be BROWN coloured, you MUST use Turbo injectors with a Turbo Computer, you CANNOT mix and match, if you use NON TURBO INJECTORS the motor will not get enough fuel, and most likley wont last over a week Computer You NEED a turbo computer in order to run the turbo injectors, an Auto computer will run both manual and auto cars, but a manual computer will not run an auto car. Computer Identification 3TA = Turbo Auto 3TM = Turbo Manual 3EA = Non Turbo Auto 3EM = Non Turbo Manual If no stickers on cover, Open the ecu, A turbo ecu will have a second green computer board on it for the knock sensor Oil and Water lines they bolt onto provisions made in the later model VL Series commonly konwn as series 2. it is advised that if you have an early one, to get a S2 motor to use (see Picture Below) the water return goes to a heater hose on the other side of the engine with a T piece Parts you will need Turbo Dump to cat pipe Turbo Exhaust Manifold Turbo Injectors Turbo Dump pipe See picture above (number 5 in it) Turbo Computer Crossover pipe **OR** Intercooler kit (i.e GKTEK) Oil and Water lines Intake Elbow See Detailed images below Misc Parts Exhaust Manifold Gasket Turbo Gasket Middle plenum gasket Dump to engine pipe gasket Engine pipe to cat gasket New Exhaust Studs with Nuts and Washers http://3/4 90 Degree Bend hose, 3/4 BSP to 3/4 Barb Brass Fitting 14x1.5mm Banjo Bolt with 2 washers (brass or alloy) 12x1.25mm Banjo Bolt with 2 washers (brass or alloy) Silicon Hoses (Or rubber, doesnt matter) Hose Clamps Heater Hose HOW TO DO IT *Removing Old parts* Disconnect your Battery Releve Fuel Pressure Jack the vehicle up and place it sturdly on stands 1. Drain your water and oil 2. Remove your intake pipeing between the AFM and Throttle Body 3. Remove your Exhaust manifold up until your Cat 4. Remove the top half of your Plenum 5. Spray The circled bolts with CRC/WD40/RP7 6. After some time, remove these 3 bolts 7. Clean the gaskets from the Plenum from the Exhaust side of the block and the Cat (shove a rag in the runners to stop crap getting inside them) 8. Spray CRC onto the Exhaust Studs, and use the 2 nut trick to remove them 9. Remove the Injector Rail and Injectors Remember, to MARK YOUR INJECTORS (release the pressure by cranking the car with the fuel pump fuse out) (remember the return and feed pipes and mark them) *Installing New Parts* 1.Using the 2 nut trick again, Install the new exhast studs makings sure they are in firm and not cross threaded 2. Put the new exhaust gasket on the studs, and place the Turbo and Exhaust manifold on it, do up a few bolts slightly 3. line up the oil and water lines on the block, and bolt them up gently 4. do up the exhaust manifold, torque it up according to the manual 5. Do up the oil and water lines on the block 6. source a water hose, and place a T piece in the heater hose for your water return pipe 7. Install the Dump to Cat pipe using new gaskets and possibly sticky exhaust stuff to stop leaks 8. Install the Turbo Injectors and connect the fuel lines 9. Bolt on the top half of the plenum using a new gasket 10. Bolt up your Intake elbow to the front of the turbo 11. Bolt up your Cross Over pipe from the Turbo to the Throttle body (or install an intercooler) 12. Remove the passenger side kick panel and computer which resides in there and install the turbo computer 13. Refil your oil and water making sure to BLEED your water system 14. make sure you got fuel pressure, and start it up, checking over the engine, to see if any oil leaks, water leaks. there may be smoke due to the new gaskets, but that is fine *****Disclaimer***** I take absolutly no responsibility in this guide, its only instructions, if you stuff up and blow your motor, it is NOT and i repeat NOT my problem. Please take care when you do ANY mechanical work to a car, follow safety procedures, if your not sure about anything STOP and ask somebody that knows, or get somebody else to do it. Here's a pic of what a VLt ecu looks like. Difference between a VLt and VL ecu is that the VLt has a second circuit board connected to the top of the ecu with a BLUE plug running to the main board, see this in the picture. Im showing you guys this stuff as they (the younger gen) will try and sell you anything so its something to keep an eye on As far as engineering goes Gav id say a bigger brake master cyclinder would be in order and also some bigger brakes for the front and throw on some rear disc brakes aswell. The actual mounts from castlemain should already be engineered but i will double check.

sold.

Thanks Ash i have passed it on.

coolies

yep as the heading says im looking for a friend to find some standard bore 86mm flattops, Stewart W has 60thou over bore which are the last option atm. Any points in the right direction would be great.

Thanks JP some useful info. Went and got the turbo, all stock VLt gear. If anyone is interested in doing the same thing make sure you get a series 2 block, If you get a series one block you will have to tap in all your water and oil lines. I picked up stock manifold, 3 inch custom dump to cat, oil/water lines included with stock turbo. Turbo is in great condition i got the guy to take me for a drive first. Im also using the stock VLt ECU which is great to run up around 10-12psi with the factory turbo. Inj are under 5000k's old. Im just waiting on the gear box mount now and i will pick up my intercooler + pipping tomorrow night. IC

No one up for a brandnew still in plastic ceramic clutch, it aint going any lower so i will put it on ebay.

They were on alfa mani, so its just the SU's alone. I got some of the flattop carb mani's sitting here they can go with it. I will get some pics up. I carbed clean them and put them on to make sure they were in good working order.

coolies thanks heaps NZ. My mian loom is sorted just wanted to tidy up teh fusable links.

Just a question for those RB peeps that have done this, Wiring, i have the castle main loom which plugs straight into my ign plug. What i want to know is how much of the old stuff can i get rid of. Those fusable links dont look all that flash and i was wondering what my other options are? I pick up turbo tom night have gone a stock T3 (vl) turbo stock mani running 10 psi will deliver 175rwkw's, more than enough to put a smile on my dial.

price drop $200

well done

i got it, who wants it?

the castle one is almost the same, difference being the rb box sits maybe 2-3 inch further back. The red arrow point to the front of the car, they sell these for $180

I agree 100%, i turboed my last car and didnt take many short cuts there. The RB is more appealing to turbo having the VLt stuff around makes it a whole lot cheaper. I will be running all the VL turbo gear (ecu/Inj) as minimal. If i do my research and continue to pick brains that have already done this project hopefully it will come together nicely. I have already been informed high mount mani is a head ache.

RB is in but im waiting on a gearbox mount, it came with a prefabed G/B mount but it needs finishing and id rather get the castlemain one instead. I found some useful info regarding gauges for which parts to use with exsiting datsun gauges. Water temp gauge - Use S13 or R32 Skyline sensor Part No 25080-89903 Oil pressure gauge - Use Z original sensor screws straight in Amps/Volt meter - no change Oil Temp Gauge - I used an additional water temp gauge fitted above the oil pressure gauge and used the Z original water temp sensor that screws in the RB20 sump. (see my website) Speedo - use Navara D21 Ute mechanical gearbox Pinion Assembley Part No 3270202G17 Im also currently sourcing some turbo goodness and have located a couple of decent bolt straight on kits very well priced.

carbys sold first post edit

lol

i have a working set in me shed if anyone is interested. $250.